David Goss

looks very similar to peach leaf curl, obviously its not a peach but could be a similar fungus to Taphrina deformans. Most probably its the bay sucker like rob says trioza alacris or jumping plant louse.

i will try it anyway but only with one pantin for now seeing as i only have 1:blushing: I was only messin with you anyway bud:thumbup1: if you were going over the top of it then it would have been a different story

BOOM! goes the fungus bombshell

what if it was just used to gain access to the crown and then you could just send it down the line when you get there? it was just a thought for a more comfortable ascent more than a tool for getting up, i know sometimes i dont put my hands up fast enough and can nip some skin. Figured it would just be more ergonomic lets say...

Hope you didnt polish its underside too much with the speedline:wink: great video anyway

I just noticed something.... were you speedlining UNDER an ABC lv cable?

great video steve thanks for posting.i was also thinking of maybe adding a hand ascender to the setup just to make it easier to hold the rope above the hitch/SJ. This i guess wouldn't need to be attached to any part of you and will only be used as a grip for your hand.... Any comments welcome please

I thought exactly the same till i got one, after a bit of getting used to i now think its the dogs whatsits. I love the way you can use just one hand to pull in your rope and it self tends below the SJ. Still a lot of cash but its a great tool and a sweat saver for sure:thumbup1:

So far i have seen many reviews on the 201 and it seems its about equal with bad and good reviews. I guess that if you are used to and like your 200 then that will be the saw for you until you cant buy them anymore, THEN you need to make a decision on the 201 OR the new husky. For me i love my 200 and will not even consider buying something different until i cant buy one anymore, it works exactly the way i expect it to and am used to. I have no reason to get something different. Husky top handles i will probably never even consider due to the previous bad experiences with them, the new one may be good but i will never know unless someone makes me try it. I have a 200t and it works well, thats all that is important to me

Nutter:001_tt2: I would be paying particular attention to the central leaders there, from the picture (once i got the crick out my neck) it looks kinda busy in there and there could be future problems with compression fork cracks (included bark) etc. it may be worth taking one of the leaders out now to save problems in the future. It is looking good and healthy anyway:thumbup1: Shame someone butchered it before it would have looked much nicer in its natural state:001_rolleyes: ( standing back waiting for the hama onslaught )

Ah ok i didnt know pollarding wasnt done in the woodlands and only done on boundaries... every day is a school day

How does pollarding stop livestock eating regrowth? Is it because the pollard is higher up and out of reach whereas coppice is ground level? Was that not what fences, walls and hedgerows were for, to keep the livestock out of where they are not supposed to be? Maybe it was to stop wild animals like deer etc but it seems strange to me that it was to stop livestock...

Bin it?? I never use them, never have and have never had a problem with a nose sprocket jamming on any husky i have ever used. Maybe i am just lucky but i also heard that if you start greasing the nose then you need to keep doing it but if you dont start then you never need to. I may be wrong but its always worked for me in the 20 years i have been doing it so there must be some truth in it.... Wait and see me get crucified now

To me... Topping is when the customer says can you reduce it by 50% or there abouts and off you go hacking and slashing without a care of what you are doing and for the future stability of the tree. This tree will probably never be MAINTAINED in the future either. Pollarding however is something that is done to MAINTAIN a tree within a small space and is worked on EVERY year or 2 to guarantee that the cuts are never too big and the tree can easily repair the damage. That is my take on the modern view of TOPPING and POLLARDING. In the past however there was more of a need for the timber product of pollarded trees and i guess a lot of trees were probably TOPPED in order to have a future supply of POLLARDED timber. All done with reason and need. Nowadays however Topping is done mostly by the selfish thoughts of I want of more light or less leaves or a better view (all on a very temporary time frame) which IMO is just crazy and done in complete ignorance of the bigger picture. I would say however on very rare occasions with responsible owners, POLLARDING is done as a last ditch attempt at saving the life of a mature tree.

ash make good vets

i likes it simples:thumbup:

just remembered i had these couple of pics of 2 full on survivors.... enjoy:001_smile:

Oh and with the grigri your set up to descend whenever you want just by unclipping the ascender.

I have tried a few different methods and for me the yoyo method i use is the least sweaty once you get your rhythm right. Its not the fastest but i am not in a race...

oops let me put that the right way round for you:blushing:

Just remembered i was going to post a photo of my srt setup on here.... better late than never i suppose Please excuse my sad excuse for a footloop that luckily you cant see out of shot at the bottom, but i used some 6mm cord i got in america once, it works well and is very light and can take my weight without even straining so thats all that matters

where?

Very nice:thumbup1:

i use imori and its the dogs whatsits, its soft and bights well on the SJ and self tends with ease.