Spruce Pirate

I'll second that. Your bill should be paid out of the insurance so the cost of getting a TM company in shouldn't be a problem.

If they get a call I think they have to turn out anyway:001_rolleyes:, but if they come out and you haven't notified them then you can be in the poo. If we're burning we notify them before starting and at the end of the day when everything's damped down, doesn't take much, they always appreciate it and it keeps us in the right if anyone does call them.

Other than trying to cut the wet areas in the summer, when theoretically it's drier, no. Soft-wood harvesting is a year round occupation. Hard-wood is different I think.

More photo's would help. If it's chalara expect to see the dieback travel from the tips down the rachis of the leaflet spreading into the whole leaf from there.

Helmets and boots are VAT exempt, but only if bought for personal use. If you buy them for somebody else (such as an employee or volunteer) they are VAT-able. As I understand it each member of your team would need to buy helmets and boots individually to qualify for the exemption. If you buy five sets and supply them then only one set, your own, will be exempt.

What sort of hedge was it? I know laurel can give you similar symptoms, think it releases cyanide gas when cut?

In theory, chemical screefing will work. But there is little point if you're planting straight after a clearfell without a fallow period, there can be some merit in it on a new plant where weeds are already established or a clearfell after a fallow period. I have seen two new plant sites where chemical screefing was used as ground prep, unfortunately the planters couldn't see which bits had been sprayed as: 1 (grass) planting was done when weeds were dormant anyway; and 2 (heather) spraying was not done far enough in advance to show a good kill before planting. The result in both cases was a series of good screefs with no trees and a load of suppressed trees surrounded by weeds. In the first case the spraying was done by one contractor (me) and the planting by another . In the second I don't know if it was the same contractor who did both jobs or not. Both cases were a total waste of time, money and chemical . I would chase the harvester with the mounder and get it planted quick, smart. You'll beat the worst of the weeds and can always do a post plant spray if you need to, this can be targeted to the areas of the site that need it, minimising chemical use. Planting straight away can sometimes beat the weevil, letting the trees get their roots down before the weevil arrive. You need to monitor the site closely and make sure you get your weevil spraying done, but easier to spray for weevils on a weed free site than hunt for trees in a weed jungle. For you, with 40-60's, post-clearfell, weed covered site. I would say mound, plant, monitor weeds and weevil and spray as necessary. If only a very small amount of weed growth you could consider hand-weeding . You'll probably want to allow for some beating up and mammal control, possibly fencing depending on where you are, what species you're planting and which species of herbivore you're dealing with.

50' to 60'. Think that's 15m to 20m, since you're metric. (Based on building being normal sized ) Clients always overestimate trees IME.

There has been a long standing arrangement in forestry that someone holding PA1 & PA6 could "supervise" up to five others on site when spraying. So in effect one ticket could have six operators on site. I've never been sure of how official this arrangement is/was. In any case, this is also going to cease in 2015. I believe you will also need a ticket to be able to plant treated trees, but stand to be corrected on that.

Sorry to rain on the parade, but I had one of these on trial a while back and is was cr.... rubbish. Primer bulb fell out within a week and wouldn't re-seat; wouldn't idle (despite being back at the dealer for a re-tune); front hand guard was a bit wobbly and AV was poor. I'm sure there was something else that went wrong which was the final straw for it going back. I know you can buy four of them for the price of a Husky or Stihl, but I think I'd spend the money (or at least a bit more money). I do have a Mitox blower and have always been very happy with that, so I'm not just writing it off because it's a Mitox. Also was only using it for small stuff, not pushing its boundaries chogging down big stuff. Be pleased to hear I just had a bad one, so let us know how you get on.

Think so. Someone will be along shortly who knows for sure.

We get ours from Parkers. I think they're about £15 - 20, contains cushions booms etc. Never had to use one yet. FC seem happy so long as its in the van, don't need to carry it in to site. If you're using a machine, obviously it should be in the cab (or similarly accessible). Their latest wheeze was to ask if we'd had training in its use!

Can we take it from this that you didn't feel it was worth while? From what I've heard the FISA approved training can be pretty hit or miss - some good, some bad.

One of life's great unknowns..... like how come when you trip over your own feet..... EVERYONE IS WATCHING!

Stein Cube, Zing-It Line, 10 & 12 oz weights on either end. A lot of my climbing is out in the woods along footpaths where you want to carry as little as possible so the ladder option is often impractical and I have to rely on the throw line. Normally I use the Big Shot as I find it so much more accurate than throwing, along with having the distance/height. If I'm throwing by hand I normally swing it in a pendulum with my right hand, but find I'm favouring the "cradle" between the legs held with both hands more these days - greater accuracy and height. Throw line and Big Shot also very useful for pulling out hangers and putting a rope into a tree for winching it over.

Slight hi-jack, but, as I've only used a Jensen very briefly, what makes them better than the Timberwolf? Not trying to start any slanging matches, just wondering what features make them better.

Nothing quite like windblow!

I certainly wouldn't recommend using reclaimed fence posts for it. From your previous post I thought you sounded as though you thought it would be difficult to winch it back upright - in my experience it's not, as long as you've not got a lot of weight to move past the horizontal. Hence I thought you'd be surprised - no offence intended. If it's lying down-hill then that's a different kettle of fish. The root plate is normally the heavier bit, if you can get that to move from perpendicular to the ground back to the horizontal then it will pull the stem up with it. Been a long day, I hope that makes sense.....

Assuming that the stem isn't lying downhill, so it is on flat ground lying parallel with the ground, you'd be surprised how easily a stem can be winched back. From what I understood the OP can't get in to off-root it as the ditch is in the way, hence wanting to winch the whole lot over. Rustcutter's description of how to tie the fence posts together is far clearer than my attempt earlier.

With that size of stem I'd think you'd want the posts put well in, and a good strong lashing between each post - but I'm not an expert on the technique. Probably depends on what size of winch you've got, the angle the stems at.....

Three fence posts in a row, set in at about 30-45 degrees away from the stump, tied together. You can probably find a diagram somewhere if you look hard enough on Google. How big is the stump?

Would a more like for like comparison not be a 560 and a 362? Love the 560, never used a 362, so can't really give you any further advice.

A training provider should be able to supply you with a list of kit you will need to do the course. Some trainers may be able to supply both tools and PPE. If it's a list of equipment you need for work in general, then that can be a pretty long list......... For basic felling I'd carry wedges, hammer, breaking-bar, tape, tongs, 1st aid kit (better not forget that!), fuel & oil, plug key, files (flat and round), oh - and a saw. PPE wise, you're looking at trousers, boots, helmet and gloves. Other's may take either more or less stuff with them.

If it's only four weeks old get it back to the dealer and get them to sort/replace it. That's why you buy a new saw with a warranty.

I'd provide a link, but being only semi-computer-literate I don't know how. What I do know is that FISA 301 - Using Petrol-Driven Chainsaws states: "Gloves.* The type of glove will depend on a risk assessment of the task and the machine. Consider the need for protection from cuts from the chainsaw, thorny material and cold/wet conditions. Where chainsaw gloves are required, these should comply with EN 381-7." The guide was "reprinted" in March 2013, and currently appears on the FISA website. I would have thought that it would be up to an instructor/assessor to carry out a risk assessment on whether inexperienced/un-certified operators under their supervision require to wear chainsaw gloves or not. If they decide they do then the candidate needs to wear them or find another course/assessor.