Spruce Pirate

There has been a long standing arrangement in forestry that someone holding PA1 & PA6 could "supervise" up to five others on site when spraying. So in effect one ticket could have six operators on site. I've never been sure of how official this arrangement is/was. In any case, this is also going to cease in 2015. I believe you will also need a ticket to be able to plant treated trees, but stand to be corrected on that.

Sorry to rain on the parade, but I had one of these on trial a while back and is was cr.... rubbish. Primer bulb fell out within a week and wouldn't re-seat; wouldn't idle (despite being back at the dealer for a re-tune); front hand guard was a bit wobbly and AV was poor. I'm sure there was something else that went wrong which was the final straw for it going back. I know you can buy four of them for the price of a Husky or Stihl, but I think I'd spend the money (or at least a bit more money). I do have a Mitox blower and have always been very happy with that, so I'm not just writing it off because it's a Mitox. Also was only using it for small stuff, not pushing its boundaries chogging down big stuff. Be pleased to hear I just had a bad one, so let us know how you get on.

Think so. Someone will be along shortly who knows for sure.

We get ours from Parkers. I think they're about £15 - 20, contains cushions booms etc. Never had to use one yet. FC seem happy so long as its in the van, don't need to carry it in to site. If you're using a machine, obviously it should be in the cab (or similarly accessible). Their latest wheeze was to ask if we'd had training in its use!

Can we take it from this that you didn't feel it was worth while? From what I've heard the FISA approved training can be pretty hit or miss - some good, some bad.

One of life's great unknowns..... like how come when you trip over your own feet..... EVERYONE IS WATCHING!

Stein Cube, Zing-It Line, 10 & 12 oz weights on either end. A lot of my climbing is out in the woods along footpaths where you want to carry as little as possible so the ladder option is often impractical and I have to rely on the throw line. Normally I use the Big Shot as I find it so much more accurate than throwing, along with having the distance/height. If I'm throwing by hand I normally swing it in a pendulum with my right hand, but find I'm favouring the "cradle" between the legs held with both hands more these days - greater accuracy and height. Throw line and Big Shot also very useful for pulling out hangers and putting a rope into a tree for winching it over.

Slight hi-jack, but, as I've only used a Jensen very briefly, what makes them better than the Timberwolf? Not trying to start any slanging matches, just wondering what features make them better.

Nothing quite like windblow!

I certainly wouldn't recommend using reclaimed fence posts for it. From your previous post I thought you sounded as though you thought it would be difficult to winch it back upright - in my experience it's not, as long as you've not got a lot of weight to move past the horizontal. Hence I thought you'd be surprised - no offence intended. If it's lying down-hill then that's a different kettle of fish. The root plate is normally the heavier bit, if you can get that to move from perpendicular to the ground back to the horizontal then it will pull the stem up with it. Been a long day, I hope that makes sense.....

Assuming that the stem isn't lying downhill, so it is on flat ground lying parallel with the ground, you'd be surprised how easily a stem can be winched back. From what I understood the OP can't get in to off-root it as the ditch is in the way, hence wanting to winch the whole lot over. Rustcutter's description of how to tie the fence posts together is far clearer than my attempt earlier.

With that size of stem I'd think you'd want the posts put well in, and a good strong lashing between each post - but I'm not an expert on the technique. Probably depends on what size of winch you've got, the angle the stems at.....

Three fence posts in a row, set in at about 30-45 degrees away from the stump, tied together. You can probably find a diagram somewhere if you look hard enough on Google. How big is the stump?

Would a more like for like comparison not be a 560 and a 362? Love the 560, never used a 362, so can't really give you any further advice.

A training provider should be able to supply you with a list of kit you will need to do the course. Some trainers may be able to supply both tools and PPE. If it's a list of equipment you need for work in general, then that can be a pretty long list......... For basic felling I'd carry wedges, hammer, breaking-bar, tape, tongs, 1st aid kit (better not forget that!), fuel & oil, plug key, files (flat and round), oh - and a saw. PPE wise, you're looking at trousers, boots, helmet and gloves. Other's may take either more or less stuff with them.

If it's only four weeks old get it back to the dealer and get them to sort/replace it. That's why you buy a new saw with a warranty.

I'd provide a link, but being only semi-computer-literate I don't know how. What I do know is that FISA 301 - Using Petrol-Driven Chainsaws states: "Gloves.* The type of glove will depend on a risk assessment of the task and the machine. Consider the need for protection from cuts from the chainsaw, thorny material and cold/wet conditions. Where chainsaw gloves are required, these should comply with EN 381-7." The guide was "reprinted" in March 2013, and currently appears on the FISA website. I would have thought that it would be up to an instructor/assessor to carry out a risk assessment on whether inexperienced/un-certified operators under their supervision require to wear chainsaw gloves or not. If they decide they do then the candidate needs to wear them or find another course/assessor.

The OP is basically describing a mounding operation, as used in commercial plantations. If you mound it as you describe you can either use the bucket of the machine to scrape up a mound, and leave an associated hole where it came from(hinge mounding), or overturn the mound back into the hole it was excavated from (inverted mouding I think they call it). The first has the advantage that it gives the tree an elevated position, giving it a slight advantage when it comes to weed competition, but the disadvantage that you have approximately 1200 ankle-breaking holes in the ground left over your site. The latter, does not give the tree any advantage over the weeds, other than the weed free soil around it. Both methods provide weed free soil around the tree and aeration. Notch planting on mounds is certainly quicker than either notch planting directly into the ground or pit planting. Mechanical ground prep is certainly less labour intensive than manual ground prep. Outputs for either manual or mechanical ground prep depend very much on the operator. I've worked with guys on mounding spades that can pretty much keep up with a machine, but machine operators who don't know what they're doing will not have the outputs that a professional mounding contractor does. Staking and tubing can be easier on prepped ground as you can see more of the obstacles.

No way I could do it for the same reason - far too hot most of the time with only the saw trousers on, never-mind another layer.

Didn't see the news, but I used to work with a guy who always wore combats over the saw trousers to protect the expensive trousers from scratches, cuts etc. Bloke could've been doing the same thing......

We normally do 6 plants per metre, staggered, 30cm between the rows, 30cm in the row. Pre-plant band spray with round-up is also quite normal. Other than that, as in above posts.

It will probably depend on your turnover, and how much you're paying out to those whom you are employing (either on a self-employed or employed basis). If you're just setting up you may have to give estimates of these figures.

Good advice Same could be said of 390/395/3120.

I used to live in "The Cedars", a very grand name. In reality it was the old telephone exchange, bedroom; shower/toilet; living/dining/kitchen, all in a 10' x 20' shed - and not a Cedar in sight!

I have to wear specs anyway and find if I take them off (when it's very wet for example) I always end up with stuff in my eyes, despite having the visor down. Some form of glasses, prescription or otherwise, is definitely a good idea.