Spruce Pirate

Without wishing to fan the flames of this, could someone explain why it is illegal to tow in the third lane? Especially on congested roads or when overtaking two large vehicles taking up the other two lanes. For the record, I was aware that it is illegal before this thread, but have never known why.

Ditto. I presume you've actually looked at the tree and you're not pricing of the pic?

I like the sound of it. I've been put off applying for AA membership for various reasons, mainly that I'm mostly forestry with a bit of arb on the side, but this sounds like a good option for folk in my situation. Count me at least pencilled in.

Could you not have straight felled into the field? Put a winch on it for a back up?

Now that chainsaw refreshers are well established - in forestry at least, if not arb - it is only a matter of time before they start on pesticides, then quads, then strimmers, then.............

What would happen if an employed person got a mortgage on the strength of their current employment and then either found themselves changing jobs and ending up with a lot less income? Unless you're suggesting that self-employed people deliberately cook the books in order to get the mortgage approved. In either case:

My wife and I are both self employed, we got a mortgage with no problem at all. I don't think it's the being self employed that is the problem, but as other's have said, the tendency for us to try and minimise our earnings for tax, hence big spends at the end of the financial year. If you declare your correct earnings and are applying for a mortgage within your means, IME, you shouldn't have a problem.

I'd have said beech, personally. Will happily defer to superior knowledge of others though.

I had a shot of one on the ground once, found it like the Krypton Factor, could barely open it even once I'd been shown how to do it. Could be I'm just a bit slow though.

Ditto, don't know how many old cans and spouts I've got in the shed. I swapped to a Stihl can this time last year, big improvement over the Husky. Like the look of the new Husky's, but until they're on the shelf impossible to tell what they'll be like.

Was that a bespoke course for one person? Even if it was it still seems expensive, but if you have four candidates for training that's £1640 for a trainer for a day???? I know trainers have costs, and if it's through the ring then there's their on-cost as well, but really - £1640 for a day??? I'd be genuinely pleased if any trainers on here can justify that cost.

Sounds exactly like that. Quite common here too, especially out west.

In the end I got a Stihl BG 86 as I got a good deal on it from the dealer (I know Stihl dealers aren't flavour of the month on here just now, but it's true!). Very pleased with it, big improvement on the old Mitox.

I like the K&H, way better than the Oregon. I tend to be quite hard on wedges as they get used mostly on the back weighted outsiders. I think I've only broken one in about four months, that one only the other week. That's pretty durable in my book and good value for money. Like the triple-taper a lot, be interested to try the hard head.

It's a very useful bit of kit. We use it on almost every domestic job and have even used it in the woods to get stuff along narrow footpaths. With a bit of thoughtful loading you can get a lot of stuff on it. Realistically as it's mostly forestry we do it doesn't come out that often, but for domestic stuff it comes into its own. Like others have said, once you've got one you wouldn't want to be without it. As far as costs go, everyone has to do their own cost/benefit analysis - in my case it was far easier and more cost effective to buy one, if you have a lot more time on your hands maybe self-farbrication is an option.

Forestry's tough, but at least your destiny is mostly in your own hands. We've all had jobs where it's difficult to make your wage on piece rates but if you're having a bad day / week you can always try and work that bit more, shave five minutes off a break, do an extra fill (I'm not going to mention running back from a chipper ) to try and catch up. If the weather really picks up into a gale or serious snow you can call it quits and get out of the woods. Stuck on a boat on the other hand there's nothing you can do. If you're not catching you're not earning, and what you do catch goes to the boat first and your wage comes after the boats bills are paid. If the weather comes up and you're in the middle of the North Sea or out in the Atlantic you can't go home and get out of it. I've known a couple of fishermen, don't think I'd swap the woods for the sea in a hurry.

I'm looking for a new blower just now as well, pretty much looking at either the Stihl BG 66 C-E or an Efco as that's what's in stock at either of the local dealers and I need one now. Both similar in price, has anyone got any experience of the Efco or should I just stick with the Stihl? It's to replace a Mitox which has given up the fight.

I'll second that. Your bill should be paid out of the insurance so the cost of getting a TM company in shouldn't be a problem.

If they get a call I think they have to turn out anyway:001_rolleyes:, but if they come out and you haven't notified them then you can be in the poo. If we're burning we notify them before starting and at the end of the day when everything's damped down, doesn't take much, they always appreciate it and it keeps us in the right if anyone does call them.

Other than trying to cut the wet areas in the summer, when theoretically it's drier, no. Soft-wood harvesting is a year round occupation. Hard-wood is different I think.

More photo's would help. If it's chalara expect to see the dieback travel from the tips down the rachis of the leaflet spreading into the whole leaf from there.

Helmets and boots are VAT exempt, but only if bought for personal use. If you buy them for somebody else (such as an employee or volunteer) they are VAT-able. As I understand it each member of your team would need to buy helmets and boots individually to qualify for the exemption. If you buy five sets and supply them then only one set, your own, will be exempt.

What sort of hedge was it? I know laurel can give you similar symptoms, think it releases cyanide gas when cut?

In theory, chemical screefing will work. But there is little point if you're planting straight after a clearfell without a fallow period, there can be some merit in it on a new plant where weeds are already established or a clearfell after a fallow period. I have seen two new plant sites where chemical screefing was used as ground prep, unfortunately the planters couldn't see which bits had been sprayed as: 1 (grass) planting was done when weeds were dormant anyway; and 2 (heather) spraying was not done far enough in advance to show a good kill before planting. The result in both cases was a series of good screefs with no trees and a load of suppressed trees surrounded by weeds. In the first case the spraying was done by one contractor (me) and the planting by another . In the second I don't know if it was the same contractor who did both jobs or not. Both cases were a total waste of time, money and chemical . I would chase the harvester with the mounder and get it planted quick, smart. You'll beat the worst of the weeds and can always do a post plant spray if you need to, this can be targeted to the areas of the site that need it, minimising chemical use. Planting straight away can sometimes beat the weevil, letting the trees get their roots down before the weevil arrive. You need to monitor the site closely and make sure you get your weevil spraying done, but easier to spray for weevils on a weed free site than hunt for trees in a weed jungle. For you, with 40-60's, post-clearfell, weed covered site. I would say mound, plant, monitor weeds and weevil and spray as necessary. If only a very small amount of weed growth you could consider hand-weeding . You'll probably want to allow for some beating up and mammal control, possibly fencing depending on where you are, what species you're planting and which species of herbivore you're dealing with.

50' to 60'. Think that's 15m to 20m, since you're metric. (Based on building being normal sized ) Clients always overestimate trees IME.