Spruce Pirate

Three fence posts in a row, set in at about 30-45 degrees away from the stump, tied together. You can probably find a diagram somewhere if you look hard enough on Google. How big is the stump?

Would a more like for like comparison not be a 560 and a 362? Love the 560, never used a 362, so can't really give you any further advice.

A training provider should be able to supply you with a list of kit you will need to do the course. Some trainers may be able to supply both tools and PPE. If it's a list of equipment you need for work in general, then that can be a pretty long list......... For basic felling I'd carry wedges, hammer, breaking-bar, tape, tongs, 1st aid kit (better not forget that!), fuel & oil, plug key, files (flat and round), oh - and a saw. PPE wise, you're looking at trousers, boots, helmet and gloves. Other's may take either more or less stuff with them.

If it's only four weeks old get it back to the dealer and get them to sort/replace it. That's why you buy a new saw with a warranty.

I'd provide a link, but being only semi-computer-literate I don't know how. What I do know is that FISA 301 - Using Petrol-Driven Chainsaws states: "Gloves.* The type of glove will depend on a risk assessment of the task and the machine. Consider the need for protection from cuts from the chainsaw, thorny material and cold/wet conditions. Where chainsaw gloves are required, these should comply with EN 381-7." The guide was "reprinted" in March 2013, and currently appears on the FISA website. I would have thought that it would be up to an instructor/assessor to carry out a risk assessment on whether inexperienced/un-certified operators under their supervision require to wear chainsaw gloves or not. If they decide they do then the candidate needs to wear them or find another course/assessor.

The OP is basically describing a mounding operation, as used in commercial plantations. If you mound it as you describe you can either use the bucket of the machine to scrape up a mound, and leave an associated hole where it came from(hinge mounding), or overturn the mound back into the hole it was excavated from (inverted mouding I think they call it). The first has the advantage that it gives the tree an elevated position, giving it a slight advantage when it comes to weed competition, but the disadvantage that you have approximately 1200 ankle-breaking holes in the ground left over your site. The latter, does not give the tree any advantage over the weeds, other than the weed free soil around it. Both methods provide weed free soil around the tree and aeration. Notch planting on mounds is certainly quicker than either notch planting directly into the ground or pit planting. Mechanical ground prep is certainly less labour intensive than manual ground prep. Outputs for either manual or mechanical ground prep depend very much on the operator. I've worked with guys on mounding spades that can pretty much keep up with a machine, but machine operators who don't know what they're doing will not have the outputs that a professional mounding contractor does. Staking and tubing can be easier on prepped ground as you can see more of the obstacles.

No way I could do it for the same reason - far too hot most of the time with only the saw trousers on, never-mind another layer.

Didn't see the news, but I used to work with a guy who always wore combats over the saw trousers to protect the expensive trousers from scratches, cuts etc. Bloke could've been doing the same thing......

We normally do 6 plants per metre, staggered, 30cm between the rows, 30cm in the row. Pre-plant band spray with round-up is also quite normal. Other than that, as in above posts.

It will probably depend on your turnover, and how much you're paying out to those whom you are employing (either on a self-employed or employed basis). If you're just setting up you may have to give estimates of these figures.

Good advice Same could be said of 390/395/3120.

I used to live in "The Cedars", a very grand name. In reality it was the old telephone exchange, bedroom; shower/toilet; living/dining/kitchen, all in a 10' x 20' shed - and not a Cedar in sight!

I have to wear specs anyway and find if I take them off (when it's very wet for example) I always end up with stuff in my eyes, despite having the visor down. Some form of glasses, prescription or otherwise, is definitely a good idea.

Windblow is a separate ticket again. But yes, as far as I know, it does count as refresher for all your ground based tickets. Good news is Windblow is now one ticket again, was 34 (single windblow) and 35 (multiple windblow) now just the one ticket - don't know new name or number. You needed to have 32 to be eligible to be assessed for 34/35, I presume this is the same for the new numbers.

When I did it, it was trees over 380mm (15"). They put 32 & 33 together so you only do one ticket instead of two, so yes it covers medium trees and large trees. Of course, they've changed all the numbers now, but I assume the content is the same. Lots of bore cuts, a bit on winching.

This is the most common reason given for felling with a Humbolt, but unless you're felling downhill on a slope a humbolt always results in a higher stump which results in a loss of timber. An inch at the bottom being worth a foot at the top and all that. A "normal" felling gub doesn't lose a massive amount of timber as its primarily taken out when the log is squared.

As Big J says, they certainly grow big, but mostly with poor form. There's a small plantation along the road from us here, we planted it about 5 years ago. It took off with vigorous growth and good survival, but due to changes on the estate I haven't been back into it for a couple of years. I must get back along and have a look at how they're doing. They were planted mostly for something different, production not essential, but would be a bonus. I'm not sure if they're commercially viable up here.

I run multiple trailers for different purposes, it would cost me a fortune in testers fees each year for a test, but I'm still in favour of it. Some of the things you see on the roads are shocking.

At least I know I'm not the only one then.

I quite like a humbolt up a tree for taking the top off, they seem to land nice and flat with very little stem shake. On the ground I find it difficult to get the cuts to line up, even using the tips from Reg's video. I think its easier on smaller diameter stuff and I need more practice on larger diameter timber, find I end up over cutting the gub to get cuts lined up. Any further tips would be most welcome. Its surprising how difficult it is to do something the opposite way to what you're used to.

All I know about badgers is they normally delay things at best, halt them altogether at worst. I don't know the answer to any of your questions off hand, sorry. But... aren't they just after doing a badger cull down your way? I don't understand how you can be shooting them one minute and then having to apply for a license to disturb the next!

If I was looking for only one saw I'd go with the 560. Screams when your snedding with it, enough power to fell bigger timber, stick an 18" bar on it and off you go.

I'd agree with that. Why not a 560XPG? Very good all round saw.

Nothing.

Sadly, I can't afford a one way ticket to Siberia......