Spruce Pirate
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Everything posted by Spruce Pirate
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Have done a couple of badger sett fells. One was inactive, felled all trees away from the sett (as much as possible, bearing in mind the sett was in the middle of the wood), stumps left high so no machinery can get in and disturb the sett. Other one was an active site, license needed from SNH and paperwork had to be physically on site. Trees felled away from sett, all debris had to be cleared from entrance holes and runs on a daily basis. Couldn't fell before 8am or after 5pm, all work had to be completed within a timeframe too, but can't remember the exact details. Rules might be different for England. Neither job was difficult, just had to think a wee bit more as to where and how the trees were felled to avoid damage and minimise the clear up.
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Evening Andrew, your post above gives a very good summary of the 6100. I liked the saw when I had it and certainly gave it a good work out. I'll be in touch soon as I'm needing a couple of bits for the 7910.
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I've got to agree on this, at least as far as the 6100 is concerned. I had one on a long term demo from Shavey and I really liked it, a good all round saw and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it if you're looking for one saw to do all your work, likes of a farmer, fencer, cutting your own firewood etc. But it wasn't as nice to use as the 560 in flat out commercial cutting. More versatile, yes, capable of doing it, yes, but not as flat out good. I've had 2 560's and will be having a third, never had any problems with them. Will consider a 6100 if I'm replacing the 365, but not as a replacement for the 560. Would be interested in trying the 5105, heard good things about that one. As an aside, I've been running a 560 on 50:1 for two years now without issue. (Probably blow up tomorrow now )
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I'll have a look in the spares box tomorrow, there might be one in there.... but then again, there might not be. You're welcome to it if there is.
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I used to like the Poti-Putki for planting cell grown. Most of the limitations have already been mentioned - can't do bare root, can't do things that are too branchy, can't do plugs that are too big - the only other things I can think of is that they need cleaned out at the jaws every so often or residue from the soil and the plugs builds up and can stop the next plug dropping out. I used to wash it out in a puddle/drain whenever I passed one. They can also be pretty heavy on the thumb before you get used to them and they don't do well in stony ground. All that said, they are a good tool, efficient and pretty ergonomic in the right soils. I've a couple kicking about in the shed if anyone's interested in them drop me a PM and we could sort something out.
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Is it not possible to get caulk boots from the US or Canada with chainsaw protection? I thought Husky did a set of wellies with caulks for the North American market. I'm pretty sure a Canadian forester has them over here, the only problem being they're not CE marked. They are still chainsaw protected boots though, so you'd have to be dealing with someone pretty pedantic for it to be a problem.
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You have to have a good justification for using non-chainsaw gloves (poor fit, weather conditions). You can't Risk Assess gloves out completely, you still have to have some. Same with trousers, you have to be able to justify using type A over C, for example through experience and weather conditions such as heat. You can certainly apply these principals to boots, for example you can easily Risk Assess wellies out of climbing work. Possibly boots out of ground work if you're working in a really boggy area? I think you'd still have to have chainsaw boots though, much as with the trousers, you can Risk Assess the level of protection down from Type C to Type A, but you can't Risk Assess it down to a pair of shorts. Out of curiosity, why do you ask?
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Very easy to do. Can bend a bar pretty easily too. I've an Efco and only used the tilty head once when it was fairly new. Didn't find it that much use and have only ever used it fixed since. The Efco has been great from the throttle trigger backwards, the engine always starts (I know I've just jinxed it) and never had any problems with it. From the throttle forwards though.......... couple of new shafts, new gear box, lack of oil to the chain. Don't know if it's any worse than any of the others though. Adjustment on the shaft can go very tight too, we always carry a filter wrench if using it to free it off if needs be. Always need a silky on site when using a powered model anyway as they always get stuck at some point.
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Normally get them from the local dealer as loops. I did get a load from you when you had the buy 3 get 1 free, buy 5 get 3 free deal on a while back though. Price not normally too much of a consideration (if it was I'd buy a reel and make them up myself), but that deal was too good to miss.
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Still using mostly Oregon. Occasionally go wild and get a Sugi, but most of the time I find they're too heavy and a nightmare to dress when they do need it. Never really had a problem with wear on the Oregon bars. Running Husky saws and a Dolly.
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As well as the above you could try Euroforest, the FC, Novar Estate are quite close to you are they not? Other estates may also be able to help out. See who the lorries belong to and give the haulier a call, they might be able to point you in the right direction.
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Yeah, it was finding the link that took the time.
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Vast amount of Arb timber going spare. Rugby
Spruce Pirate replied to Joe Newton's topic in Firewood forum
More or less as I'd thought, a lot less hassle for a better reward. -
You could also try Ringlink. Welcome to Ringlink Services. I'd vouch for H&W as well. The School of Forestry have always been notorious for being very slow in organising things, but I'm sure you'd get good training. Edit: htb beat me to Ringlink.
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Vast amount of Arb timber going spare. Rugby
Spruce Pirate replied to Joe Newton's topic in Firewood forum
Out of curiosity, how much would you have got for the firewood if you'd converted it into logs and how much time would it have taken? What's the equivalent rate per hour? I'm assuming the chip works out much better....? -
A bit late in spotting the thread if you've already posted them, but when sending samples to FC labs we use zip lock bags, normally double bagged and then in an envelope. This is the way they ask us to send them, the only concern would be if it were sat in the bag too long in a hot sorting office or on the doormat in the lab. Samples therefore have to be sent either the same day they're collected or the next day. Samples collected late on a Thursday or on a Friday are therefore kept in the fridge over the weekend and posted on the Monday.
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Working over petrol station / garage / fuel station
Spruce Pirate replied to BrendanTreeFeller's topic in General chat
Forgive my ignorance. What's an SPA card? -
I'll probably be there on the Sunday with the kids if I can score a couple of tickets. Helluva pricey to park and get in.
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Sold! I'll take one. Can you add it to my order? Cheers Andrew.
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I'm interested, but you've lost me a bit. I get that it comes over more slowly with the back cut below. By half and half do you mean deep gub, half way into the tree? Sorry if I'm being thick Good points earlier on knowing what species to use cuts on too.
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Gob, gub, mouth, face all mean undercut. Basically all of the above are about right in my opinion. I'd only really use it if I wanted to make sure and keep something on the stump and with a winch. Like if you're felling up hill with a winch pulling them in. Fell it with the back cut below, pull it in with the winch, if the line goes slack the back cut being below means the butt will stay on the stump without the hinge snapping, tension up the line again, sever the hinge and winch it up. If you use a conventional cut with the back cut above and the hinge snaps you can end up with the tree sliding back down the hill. A lot more difficult to get the tree to fall, hence why I'd only use it with a winch, in normal circumstances back cut always above. Rule I was taught was same as hinge thickness - 1" per 1', ie 1' diameter tree = 1" thick hinge, back gut 1" above bottom of gub.
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There are some great comments there. How much was the fine for using the topper on the ground with no gloves?
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Arbprizes - regular draws to win arb gear
Spruce Pirate replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
Item 3 in the Terms & Conditions: 3.All entrants must be suitably qualified for the prize (at the date of the draw) and be able to show approved qualifications for this purpose. The decision of whether qualifications are approved lies with the Sponsor but will be normally be based on NPTC or Lantra. -
I think it would very much depend on how the LA worded the invitation to quote. If they specified a MEWP must be used then I think A would have very good grounds to be miffed, if they specified industry best practice I can see how A's nose would be out of joint if the tree was truly dead, if they made no spec's at all I can see how it would be annoying, but to involve the press seems a bit much. I'd be letting the procurement department know I wasn't happy, but anything more is just sour grapes.
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I ran a 350 for about six years I think, it was a great wee saw. I think I traded it in in the end. It punched well above its weight for a semi-pro saw IMO.
