Spruce Pirate

Husky 365 or Dolmar 6100. Both will do all you want them to do, plus both able to do the things you don't yet know you'll want to do with them. Might have to stretch your budget a wee bit though.

I clicked on the attachment icon when posting and uploaded them from the computer's files. I think.

Do this ^^^ if you know how to do it. If you don't know how to do it get someone to teach you. Looks like the gob is too small for such a heavy lean, also looks like the tree is leaning in two directions and you've picked the wrong one to try and fell it in, but that could just be the picture. This is what I'd do to get the bar out. Taking two saws into the wood is always a good idea to cut yourself out if you get pinched. Saves you having to come back the next day to retrieve a bar and chain.

Sadly, I've been in forestry for over twenty years, which means I've seen more than a few brown edges exposed by felling operations and the subsequent blow. Assuming that a felling license was applied for and granted I don't think there is any come back. It is something that should be considered by the FC Conservancy, but I don't think it would necessarily prevent the license being granted. If the woodland was mature and ready for harvesting there is a very good chance that it would have started to blow anyway on both sides of the fence. It would be equally unfair to penalise the owner who felled by making him clear wind-blow because his neighbour didn't want his wood felled. If it is a strip of trees for commercial reasons the owner should be able to harvest when it is most economically practical. Commercial plantations are no different to a field of barley, wheat or any other crop. They shouldn't really be compared to "forests" in an ecological sense, nor should they be compared to urban trees. The three have some similarities, but are all very different beasts. It's a bit late now, but the best solution would have been for the two owners to put their heads together and market the whole parcel. This would decrease the cost of felling, increase the viability by putting more timber on the market and remove the risk of subsequent blow altogether. Sadly many owners are not savvy enough to think this way. Edit: Also it's not uncommon, certainly here in Scotland, for an owner to fell an edge along their neighbours ground, leaving a brown edge. There may be differences in Scots Law to English Law, but if there was any significant come-back to be had it wouldn't happen. You'd have to ensure you felled to a green edge more than one tree length away from your neighbours ground and hope your timber didn't blow into theirs when you'd finished. They'd then have to do the same thing when they wanted to fell. There'd be wee strips of green up every march between two different land owners.

Not sure if these are any use, but I quite like them. Felling site, Loch Chon [ATTACH]222281[/ATTACH] Chainsaw milling Douglas fir. [ATTACH]222282[/ATTACH] Plant, tube & stake, Wallace Monument in background. [ATTACH]222283[/ATTACH] Skyline, Kilmahog. [ATTACH]222284[/ATTACH] Mist in the Trossachs from felling site at Ben A'an. [ATTACH]222285[/ATTACH]

I charge a premium for emergency call out works if it's a client such as yours and I've got to drop everything to go and sort it out. As much as I can get away with, normally aiming for around double normal rate. On the other hand, if it's the proverbial little old lady down the street who needs something done in an emergency then I'd be quite happy working for normal rates, or even done stuff for less and free of charge depending on what and who it is.

Whereabouts in the country are you? Difficult to tell from photo's. Larch could be Phacidium coniferarum if it's just the very tips of the shoots. Could be Phytopthora ramorum which would be more serious. Some areas of the country are much more likely to be affected by P. ramorum. Juniper could be Phytopthora austrocedrae but could also be a number of other things, including wind or mammal damage. P. austrocedrae is the only pathogen I can think of. You can use Tree Alert to notify the FC if you're concerned. https://www.forestry.gov.uk/treealert

There won't be any forestry workers, just drone operators.

Any pictures of it now?

Find out which pub your local woodcutter frequents. Offer to buy him several pints if he'll show you what you want to know. Make sure you do the chainsaw bit before the pints.

Think I'd prefer the Humbolt, with a good scarf each side of the hinge. The downward slope of the gob does a better job of pushing the stick off the stump, but only my opinion, and would depend on the exact situation. In general I think things jump from the stump much better with a Humbolt cut.

Sorry for derail to original thread, but if anyone's interested this should be the latest map from FCS: http://scotland.forestry.gov.uk/images/corporate/pdf/p-ramorum-update-map-21-apr-2017.pdf

It's pretty widespread in SW Scotland - and spreading.

That in Balfron Tim? It's a really nice cut if you want to get things to jump of the stump. I've used it a lot. I think the extra cut below the gub technically makes that a Swanson that you've used. Difficult to get cuts to match when you first start using a Humbolt or Swanson when you're used to a conventional cut.

If we're doing clearance work for engineering firms I always price an hourly rate into the quote to cover downtime caused by their delays/incompetence. This covers manpower and machinery on site. There always seems to be something not done or that all of a sudden needs done, or all of a sudden can't be done or just takes three times as long to do as you'd think that affects what we want to do and our ability to do it. None of these things are normally mentioned when I price the job or discuss it with them. Result is they have to pay for the downtime, never had any issue with it, a lot of projects seem to have bucket loads of money thrown at them, and a wee bit extra to the tree guys doesn't seem to make much difference. I can imagine a domestic client being slightly different though.

I definitely drove it at some point, about 19 or 20 years ago or so. I think it has aged better than me!

The FISA guides say stack should be built and maintained in a stable condition. Hand stacking generally not to exceed 1m in height and not generally exceed 2m in height for machine stacked. Stacks to be on level ground, not slopes, etc. The 2m thing is, in my experience, very rarely upheld - most often sites aren't cleaned out quickly enough and there isn't enough room to stack if you don't go over this height. The general rule used is that stacks shouldn't exceed in height the length of the product. i.e., 3m product stack no higher than 3m. FISA 304 Chainsaw cross-cutting.pdf FISA 503 Extraction by forwarder.pdf

Including side tension. Too easy to overlook sometimes.

Sadly not. Didn't used to take a camera to work in those days. Pity really.

I used to work with a log chute on 1st thinnings extraction. It was crap in the dry weather, logs used to stick in it all the time, to the point you'd have to tip a 5 gallon drum of water down it a couple of times a day. In the wet it worked much better and bits would fly down and out. Of course, working the log chute was it's own particular brand of Hell, and wet weather made working conditions worse, but it certainly helped to get the tonnage out.

Do you know when the others in the sketch came down David? Also do you know how long you expect the remaining tree to last? I love to see the replacement, but can't help wondering if it should have been done ten, twenty, thirty years earlier? Sorry, that sounds really negative, and I don't mean it as a criticism, just wondering.

The whole thing's a bloody disgrace. Through the head payments have to be the way forward. Ridiculous way to treat people.

OK, but it wasn't me who derailed it in the first place and see my post on page one of the thread in relation to banging the hook in.

I have to agree with both of you here. I've watched guys who've done courses recently trying to fell trees with barely any gob cut out and a hinge that would hold the Queen Mary. They're bashing away with wedges and bars struggling to get a tree on the deck when all they need to do is cut it right. That said, you can't fell a back leaner the way you want simply by gubbing it and putting the back cut in, gravity will get in they way every time. Felling levers, wedges, winches, ropes, diggers, jacks, whatever felling aid you choose have their place, you just have to learn when you need to use them.

If you want to roll big logs a proper cant hook is better. Since I got the bigger felling bar, 4' like Skyhuck's, I very rarely use the wee one. I find you need to give the hook a good kick to get it to bite if you're using it as a cant hook, or even a couple of taps with the hammer/axe if it really won't bite. Bigger bar gives more leverage for felling too. Obviously this is ground based, up the tree wee bar is lighter and easier to handle.