Spruce Pirate

We get a Road Occupation Permit if we're working on the highway, with or without a MEWP. Cost's vary depending how long you're working on the road and which local authority you're dealing with. A permit for up to 3 days is about £80 from Stirling Council, a bit more for up to 7 days and then I think it's up to a month's occupation for a bit more again. Can't remember what it costs from other LA's. You're supposed to keep the paperwork on site so the Police or some other Highways official want's to inspect it. I think the idea is that it allows LA's to plan and approve works so that there aren't too many roadworks in one place, so that the emergency services can be informed of the works, school bus routes notified, etc, etc.... I could be wrong though, it might just be another money making scam for the council.

Gollum has beaten me to it.

Ah, yes, the old blue book. I know I've got one somewhere, but God knows where!

Fair do's Riggerbear, I only did the ground units in the 90's. There was also a unit 16 dedicated to cross-cutting, I think I've got a full list of what all the old units were somewhere kicking about in the office. I'll see if I can find it for interest's sake.

Thought 30, 31 equated to 10 and 11? 12 was bar and a half, 13, was 2 bar. 14 take down hung up trees? 15 windblow I think. Don't know about the climbing tickets as I didn't do them back in the day.

What sort of planting are you looking for? Anything? Natives only? Commercial re-stock? Wherever you're based, or want to work, phone the local offices of the FC, Woodland Trust, Tilhill, local estates, etc; find out who they use as main contractors and get their contact details. Give them a ring. Planting contractors are, in my experience, almost always looking for reliable workers during planting season.

Yes, you've explained your thoughts fine. I'm not trying to convert you to taking the ears off - just trying to answer your question of why do people do it. For what it's worth, I cut around 100 trees today - I didn't take the ears off any of them. I think taking the ears off, or not, is another decision you have to make on a tree by tree basis - most of the time you'll be fine leaving them on, on the flip side, most of the time taking them off isn't going to do too much harm either.

I generally do set a face cut a bit deeper, generally minimum 1/4, but that's just the way I was taught to do it - 1/4 to 1/3 out with the gob. So, yes, I'm further into the stem anyway. What you say makes sense to me, I'm not the font of all knowledge on this, just trying to give a better explanation (as I understand it) of the theory of taking the toes off. Totally valid observation on the fibre pull up the stem.

I think accuracy of the fall. It was explained to me thus (by the UK felling champion at the time): In the buttresses of the tree the wood fibres follow the curve of the buttress, whereas in the centre of the tree the fibres are running straight up and down. When the tree falls on the hinge the straight up and down fibres in the centre of the hinge behave (hinge) in a predictable manner as they are straight - therefore the tree will fall straight. The fibres on the outside, in the buttresses, being curved, do not behave in a predictable manner - sometimes they will hinge well, allowing the tree to fall straight, but sometimes they do not and the tree will pull off to one side. To ensure accuracy therefore, cut the toes off. The same principal can work in reverse too: if you want, say a side leaner, to fall straight, do not sever the toe on the holding side. Does that help? I think it would make more sense with either a tree in front of us to look at or a diagram, but I don't have either to hand. Should also add that if there's any doubt about rot in the tree I wouldn't sever the toes - they could be the things holding it up. Production cutting I wouldn't bother either, it's just more time. On a slope, downhill felling to a machine, probably worth it as the tree is more likely to jump off the stump and slide - or at least less likely to be held on the stump by the buttress tearing out (I can't imagine this last scenario crops up that much in an arb environment). As a generalisation I think taking the toes off is more relevant to a conifer fell than a broadleaf, but I stand to be corrected on that one.

Yeah, I've learned that the hard way!

SuperTack Bio Chainsaw Oil (25 Litres) | Clark Forest Been using this for a while now. No issues, oils well.

Think it's Pre Delivery Inspection, but someone will know for sure. Basically a check of the machine you're buying to make sure it all works.

Thanks for all the replies , I'd kind of forgotten about this. Apparently the rate agreed was £38 / hour. I think this includes fuel and VAT.

Nice one.

They look nice. Will they be heading north?

Does anyone have a ball park rate per hour for a 7 ton excavator with operator? Been asked if I know, and I don't. Had a quick search on here, but couldn't find anything. No transport to site required, just a rate. Thanks

Can you do something as simple as text your wife at agreed intervals? Every hour, every two hours? It is a simple system, but relies on a couple of things: 1) you have phone signal 2) your wife is able to drop everything and go look for you if you aren't in touch. 3) your wife knows to "panic" if she doesn't hear from you rather than assume that you're actually all right. 4)both of you remember to actually use it. On the plus side, it is a very cheap way of covering lone working.

I've had a look at Echo saws on the shelf, but never used one, they seemed heavy for the size and I didn't particularly like the look of them. I love my Dolmar though - wouldn't hesitate to recommend one, although I've never used the equivalent size you're looking at. Then again, I like my 560 too, been a brilliant saw for me.

Save Your Kisses For Me by Brotherhood of Man for me apparently.

Aye, they're not the easiest. They're spruce though, so they hold on hinge pretty well. If I can figure out the technology to make a video I'll put one up.

Photo's needed please.

Felling some big hairy outsiders along the edge of a power-line under a shut-down. Working between a Ponsse Bear in one direction and a JD 1270 in the other, so plenty to keep me busy. The harvesters have got all the insiders and most of the outsiders. Fell, sned out the worst of the branches, leave it for the machines to deal with.

Never broken one. I've pinged quite few with branches, closer to the line than they looked (you'd think I'd have learnt after the 1st one ) I knocked a limb off a neighbouring tree when felling an oak once, the limb fell and pinged the phone line running along the side of the road. It was quite impressive seeing a row of telephone poles wobbling about, but the line didn't break. I had a large Norway spruce go spectacularly wrong once (135 degrees wrong) and pulled the whole phone line down from the poles, but still didn't snap it. I'm not counting it as breaking the line as no-one was cut off.

Why is it obvious that you're a company? 1) Chainsaws, most used Husky 560, Dolmar 7910, Husky 395. 2) ??? 3) No brands, favour a felling type axe over a maul.

That's the one Mr Humphries - you can just make out an impressive bit of deadwood over the tables on the left of the stem, in front of the barrels. It's been years since I had a pint there, inside as I'd been out all day.