difflock
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Everything posted by difflock
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From the brother who farms; "heat's half meat", meaning anyone with live stock will have ruefully observed how much more their animals eat when it is cold.
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The Elephant in the room in the respect of district heating using biomass, is the incineration of household waste(plastic and paper only), a "free" high energy source, IF seperated at source. And any waste flue gas heat used to heat glass houses to grow exotic fruit and veg that are currently imported. Simples!
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Blanks, sigh! A wile pity it warny live ammo mind you!
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On a fixed amount of HP, for more flow, there must be lower pressure, or visa versa. No free lunches. Mr Bernoulli had it all sussed away back. cheers m
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Now for washing the yard down, this bes the biz! And I got a big fire hose reel stashed away this 20 years And a collection of(slightly rusty) 500gall steel tanks
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Not only is it not unusual, but kinda contrary tay the Laws o Physics per wor Engineer Scottie!
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As I mentioned earlier in my post, I knew that for cleaning concrete, flow is what is needed. I will prob buy a petrol engined washer, and was certainly not hung up on a gazallion psi. I am also toying with a tractor PTO pump, for better flow and pressure. cheers Marcus
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A good question? This an that, washing vehicles and a concrete yard mostly. My 20 year old Nilfisk Gerni only works intermittently, which I find odd, as when cold it works as it should(in so far as I can discern) for say 10 to 15 minutes but then, while it continues to run, does not put up the right pressure, but can sometimes be "tricked" into doing so by releasing the trigger and restarting, all most odd. And push come to shove, leave it to cool down, and away you go again, for a while. I.e. the motor works, and the pump works, sometimes, but not consistently But the last time the local Nilfisk agent fixed it, he basically said not to bring it back as parts were no longer available for the integeral motor-pump unit. Cheers mth
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I am only looking at 13l/min at 150Bar, and with a 240 litre wheelie bin and a hose, should be OK. Or start drawing off from the 800m3 capacity crystal-clear pond! Anyway, looks like a choice between the Loncin or the GX, since the GP is probably built in the same factory as the Loncin! P.S. I was tickled to see the use of Chonda as in "the usual Chonda engine" to describe the multiple brands of Honda clone engines coming out of China. Cheers all mth
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Looking at flowjet.co.uk which offers a choice of Loncin, GP Honda, or GX Honda. But What are the differences between the GP & GX Honda engines? Or Why do they offer a choice of GP/GX with the same performance and with only nominally £50.00 difference in cost? mth
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Well, no, the MX20 engined lawnmowers were operated by a pair of brothers who cycled to work, and were particularily particular about these 2 (Victa I think it was) lawnmowers, all they got was blades, and while the engines were untouched, the hard plastic treaded wheels were worn absolutly smooth. cheers mth "particularily particular", like when digging the graves they wore wellingtons, but when they returned topside, the wellie boots were taken off and a clean pair of boots put on to walk across "their" grass or the bitmac paths.
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Assuming run on the correct oil, correctly mixed etc etc. Pure curiosity on my part. Actually I just recalling, as I typed, the Suzuki MX20 2 stroke engined lawnmowers from near 30 year ago, which lasted several heavily used seasons in our Cemetery.
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This is better than a lot of the "Moab" rock crawlers in the US.
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Oops!
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Ah, but, I understand the MOT blokes look for the full display of warning lights when the ignition is switched on, before starting the vehicle, and then check they extinguish after starting. Or they should.
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Well as wor Vicky so eloquently said, Yes, but no, but yes but no, but YES!. So the fault code reader computer thinngy, still says it is STILL the sensor that has already been replaced. On scouring various fora? it appears the best solution is to remove the DPF, but surely the van cannot get through MOT Emissions with particulates present?
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The daughters boyfriends 4 year old Vivaro van with the 1.6 diesel, has been throwing a fault code, he changed the faulty sensor(the differential pressure sensor for the DPF) for a new one, then took it to the local electronic guru for an electronic talking too and then drove it at the proscribed speeds/revs/duration. And Still getting the same fault code. On a brand new sensor.
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Well I measured a scrap of firewood at 9.5%,(multiple deep probes, some were 9.6, but more 9.5's) then weighed it a few times on small digital kitchen scales and consistent at 31g, I gave it a few mins in the microwave(zero steam), then spent hours and hours toasting on top of the stove, I cannot get it below 28g, and mostly giving 29g, but I picked the lower figure to use. The scrap is only about 10mm thick by say 40mm wide, so I figgered it should be dry by now so 3/31= 9.67% compared to my 9.5%(and sometimes 9.6%) with the moisture meter. So near enough.(depending on the underlying accuracy of the scales) I went back out to my log pile in the shed and a few random samples were 13.5 to 15% max. I cannot explain this,(perhaps my shed is situated on ley lines or sommat black-magical) but those are my figures. Cheers Marcus
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? Measure it or weight it . . .
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Baptismal Font?
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O.K. I shall pop a small piece of wood in the oven the next time the wife has it on, and leave it overnight in the decaying heat. Cheers mth Though I suspect the alogrithm may "break down" as one aproaches 0.00% moisture content.
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Which I included the 8.5% for the "toasty" sticks below the fire, being aware that my bought-off-ebay "CEM DT-129" moisture meter could well be mis-reading, a little. It also gives 99.8%/99.9% when tested in wet water. Can you suggest any easy way to calibrate it?
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Snowing like a bitch here in Nth Co Antrim just now.
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Well I tested a few conifer logs at random from my open fronted and draughty shed just now, 13.5% to 15% (and it was snowing outside when I tested them) Compared to the selection that have been toasting below the stove for a few weeks, most of which are giving a very consistent 8.5%. Cheers mth
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I would contend that one of the key benefits of the "billet bundle" system, despite a little more handling, is their outstanding suitability for air drying. With the bottom row set on rails, very little ground contact and good airflow even at the ground, plus stacked 4 or 5 high(I dont imagine more than 5 high would be stable or safe) even better exposure to airflow, and easy to both cover and secure a cover over, and even if left uncovered, simply "write off" the top row, if they happen to be surface wet, restacking them 4 /5 high again, and the 3/4 rows beneath will be dry regardless. As in, even with the exposure to wind driven rain, the wind soon removes any moisture due to the rain. And if they are lifted after a few good days of blowy sunshine, despite any previous rainfall they will be shockingly dry. Marcus
