spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Possibly the choke isn't sealing properly or the fast idle carb mechanism isn't engaging properly - seen this on a 254 and my 181 - the big un almost killed me until I found it:blushing: If you pull a saw over 10-15 times with the choke on, expect to see puddled fuel in the crankcase and if you take the plug out and pull it over upside down then expect vapour and fuel running out of the plug hole. If this isn't happening then it looks like the carb isn't doing its job. Try starting it with the fuel cap loose - may be a breather problem. Try starting it with the throttle full on - may need two people - it may kick it in to life - you can use a gas torch on the plug - warming it helps vapourise the fuel and gets the engine firing. It may just be a loose carb, fuel pipe/filter, impulse circuit or dirt in the carb - sounds like fuel though!
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Change the air filter and spark plug - that'll waste £15:001_rolleyes: You should know the procedure - you got spark - good, you got fuel - is the plug wet? very wet?? - puddled fuel in the crankcase??? Compression - sounds like the piston exhaust side is ok so sounds like fuel to me. The other one that comes up once in a while is sheared flywheel key - if the thing is backfiring - then change your underwear and then check the flywheel key is intact - a backfiring saw is a bit scary when it isn't what you are expecting! Good luck - you can always send it to someone who knows what they are doing:001_tt2:
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From the album: Tanaka Top Handle Saw
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From the album: Tanaka Top Handle Saw
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Had a Bosch one in bits as well as a B&D, not very impressed with build quality,m no where as good as their petrol counterparts!
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One last thing - make sure the non original Cylinder has CLOSED ports not the cheaper open ones, a GHS one I got for a 346 had open ports - not so good, these are Transfer ports we are talking about - you could look at Arbireland on ebay - their 346 kits look good
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Just make sure the crankcase connector is plugged and airtight - otherwise it will fry another piston!
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Still alive and kicking - on the blackberry!!
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Agg21 has a GHS one fitted on a 046 I think it was - done some hours on it milling and it all looks fine with decent compression. I always try to salvage the cylinder if I can by removing the transferred aluminium and then fitting a new piston. Don't try starting it, you may kill the cylinder. The EPA models are bad for the decomp failing-plug the crank case connector and fit a standard decomp valve plus make sure the metal carb boot ring mod has been done.
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Never used one but from what I can gather, they are a bit like the 346XP but don't produce the same power or the same max revs. I would make sure if you do get one that the rubber carb boot has rhe metal clip mod as this is the achillese heel of this range of saws.
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This is one I use for 6-8oz weights when beachcasting - GRINNER KNOT Remarkeably strong and have never let go - I am not a climber but it may be of use - used it on other things if I need a very strong sliding knot. Perhaps we should have a knot sticky - anyone use a clove hitch:thumbup:
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Perhaps the inner shaft got wet and shrunk:biggrin: All sounds a bit strange IMO, there is always a logical explanation - are you sure one of your service gugs didnt put the wrong drive shaft back? You don't just wake up one day and find a component like that is 3-4 inches shorter. You have me worried - going to measure all my saw bars just to make sure:lol:
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I burn a lot of oak but it needs a bit of softwood in with it to make it burn real nice so am happy with a bit of conifer or pine and then do a mix in my log stores. Not sure I would like to pay top dollar for a load of poplar, willow or conifer but my wood is self scavanged so free is good IMO:thumbup:
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I have a Tanaka 33something or other in the collection, havent looked at it yet but know it runs and I think is the model before the latest shape, let me know if you are interested and PM me for a price, will give it a good going over before parting with it - from memory it looks in good nick.
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The racing idle is a classic air leak symptom - and is usually a sign of a bad one and a split carb boot is high up on the usual suspects, more so than a crankshaft seal. Possible split impulse line, this can stop so much fuel getting in to the carb and cause similar problems but you are probably right. If the saw makes a whoom whoom noise in the mid range and dies on mid to high revs then this is also typical - bit like a 3 series Husky before it has warmed for 15 seconds! Hope the oiler on the 066 is now good - it was throwing it out when I ran it up and all fom the right place:thumbup:
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Blimey Alec - you have been listening to me - spot on diagnosis - crank seals, impulse line or carb boot - running it this way may cause some damage to the cylinder and piston. It is possible the fuel line is holed or the carb has some crap in it or a breather is blocked but I would start with a pressure check and go from there. If you get stuck then parcels2go can get a saw to me for £6.50 which is a decent price - am not around next week but pick the spanners up again the week after:thumbup:
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Firstly, I sway more to Husky than Stihl but recognize the MS200t is better IMO then the 335 and 338, I have no experience of the 334 but would recommend the 020T or MS200T as being good saws for the job and better than their Husqvarna counterparts!
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Have PMed you - the wife likes jigsaws - we will see how she gets on with this:thumbup:
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Some of these HT leads are bonded in to the coil and if you try to remove them, you run the risk of breaking the small pin that locates in to the lead - I have cut the lead off a coil before and milled out the old HT lead with a dremmel to reveal the pin - a bit of a job but it works. I did MattyFs 372, the flywheel had ripped the lead out and managed to insert a new pin in to th eremains of the HT lead and then insert and bonded in a new 5mm HT lead -you will need 5mm HT lead by the way. Saved him a few bucks! Some HT leads just unscrew from the coil and have a threaded screw where the lead goes in to the coil. Good luck - at least you can get a spare if you cock it up!
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From the album: Husqvarna 262XP
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From the album: Husqvarna 262XP
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A bit of porting, new piston, muffler mod and tach tune
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From the album: Husqvarna 262XP
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From the album: Husqvarna 262XP
