spudulike

Been struggling with Husky 357 dumping oil all over the garage and managed to find the leak tonight at long last - I had re-sealed all the pump connections and was baffled as to why it still leaked - it had been apart about five times before I saw the small hole in the crankcase - looks like the chain adjuster has worked through the casing. Fixed it with good old JB weld!

Looks pretty clean and in good nick - never owned a Danarm! Keep up the good work.

If you have the whole thing stripped down - remove all the T27 bolts that hold the crank cases together including the hidden one below the oiler rubber, hopefully the cases will split easy but if they dont - USE A MALLET and NOT a hammer to wallop the end of the crank and it should split - always make sure all the bolts are out. A heat gun may help ease the cases apart. drive the bearings out - they can go in either way but only one way is correct - take note of the plastic bearing spacers on the bearing. Push the new bearings in and fit the seals and reassemble. If you have never done this then goodluck - it takes a bit of common and also a modicum of engineering skill - stay away from the hammer and use a mallet on everthing. Bearings can be pressed out with a bench vice and suitable drift. Don't damage any of the mating surfaces and drain the oil tank before splitting:laugh1:

I believe there is a half skip and full skip chain, on has one in three cutters missing and the other, half of them missing. A lot of the cheap Chinese stuff has them - you know the ones .....35cc with an 18" bar:001_rolleyes: Apart from allowing cheap home owner saws look pro, they are used to keep chainspeed up when using long bars through large wood to stop bogging in the cut. That's me about done - not something I have much knowlege on.

Probably just gloopy oil - the bio oil has a tendency to go a bit thick and lumpy, failing that just strip her down and clean all the pipes etc and make sure the pinion still has a good thread on it.

Come clean - you bin growin da hash in da spare room aint ya:thumbup1:

My brother had a similar thing with his Viking, first time it was a loose arb manifold, second time a mounting bracket had fractured - probably due to him walloping the cutter and bending the mounting shaft:blushing: Got both problems sorted though:thumbup:

The basics are that the saw must have a spark, fuel and compression. You need to check all of these elements to find the problem. The fact you re-fuelled and the saw stoped then may be a factor, are you using the same fuel that the saw was running, a local guy to me had a dose of diesel in with his petrol - saw smoked like hell and even my lawnmower doesn't like it! A hot saw will drop in compression, possibly the saw when running had enough compression to run but not enough to start the engine from stop. Pulling the muffler and making sure the piston is ok is an easy check. It may just be some sort of airlock - loosen the fuel cap and try to start it again. If you pull a saw over ten times with the choke on, the plug should be very wet, if it isn't then the carb or ancillary pipework has issues. If the saw was hot and you used choke then the saw may be simply flooded - pull the plug, turn the saw upside down and pull it over fast to clear the puddled fuel. If it runs out then once it is clear - start the saw without the choke on - just the fast idle!

Burrel is the man for steam on this site - think he is working on a steam powered chainsaw in his workshop Nice pictures Luke

Thats one big two stroke - back in the 80s, one of the guys in the factory where I worked brought in a Honda Red Rocket - man that thing went - couldn't catch up with him on my tuned 400/4 - they were the days:thumbup:

Nice post Maico 490 (Wasnt that a Spanish trail bike?) - never knew that what I thought was a straight jet had a built in one way valve -excellent posting my friend even old dogs can learn..........

Not too much isn't repairable, shortage of spares on older saws can stop them being repaired, the cost of spares also can make it uneconomical or limitations in your own skill. Types of failure when it does a saw in are usually things like big end failure where the crank and cylinder are written off or a saw gettiing a direct hit by a truck or tree. Typical crank bearing replacement, new piston, rings, carb, new cylinder, casings are all possible at a cost. For the record - the piston is removed by pulling out one of the gudgeon pin retaining circlips and pushing the pin out and removing the piston and not splitting the cases.