spudulike

It is my own ex-army Husky 181 - 80cc and no decomp valve - you need some bulk to start and use that saw but is a decent solid saw with a good rep.

STIHL MS240,MS260 REAR HANDLE/FUEL TANK NEW | eBay Not cheap but new non OEM - finding a MS260 being broken will be tough!

There should be a filter on the end - this isn't a fuel filter so don't fit one of these. They are often brass with a rough gauze filter - correct part number is 501 54 41-02

Like I said - modern oils = 50:1 ratio mix, that will work with no issues

No worries - glad you got there in the end and probably learn't a lot for the future!

25:1 was back in the day oil was not as good, modern oils are far better and 50:1 is normal with most modern oils. The ratio is dictated by the oil used and not the saw - Fact.

All back together and running as it should, also found the oiler pinion/worm drive was damaged so will fit a new one and the job will be a good one.

Mmmm - youre not the only one - purchased a Ryobi with similar damage! Once started a Poulan without a bar and chain on and the clutch exploded - took me two hours to find all the parts with a metal detector - one shoe was 20' away! Lucky it didn't hurt me - you live and learn!

First adjustment, turn both clockwise, second - one turn counter clockwise. L tune - clockwise through fast idle and then counterclockwise to around 1/4 turn past fast idle. The H is adjusted either way depending on how the saw runs - get this one wrong and it will seize the engine. You may find it easier to adjust the L to one turn counterclockwise and the H to 1 & 1/2 turns counterclockwise, adjust the idle and then see how it runs at the top end - probably lummpy but adjust clockwise until the saw runs cleaner but doesn't scream - may just be better to get your local dealer to tach it if he has one - 088s are expensive saws and a new P&C kit is £360!

I was thinking one of those Aliens off the film Aliens had dribbled on it:biggrin:

Pull the limiter caps out with a wood screw and turn both screws in fully (not too tight) and then turn both out one turn. These settings will get you running, you then need to start the saw, adjust the idle so it is running ok, turn in the L screw slowly until the saw races and starts to die, turn it out until it goes past fast idle and starts to drop - that is the L setting done. The H screw is either adjusted so the saw four-strokes at WOT or use a tach to set at 11,500rpm - 500 rpm below max! Make sure the air filter is cleaned before doing this.

A bit extreme fitting a new pump but they can be problematic at times. They are a simple design but the amount of chips, dust and gunk doesn't help their operation.

Take off the pinion worm drive - the round gear that fits in to the oil pump and inspect the worm drive for damage - make sure the course thread is complete and not damaged in any way, empty the oil tank and remove the oil pump. blast some WD40 through the oiler to outlet pipe, take out the tank pipe and clean and then make sure the pipe and filter is clear. If nothing is found, blow some air through the pump whilst rotating the oiler as it may be plugged. This should sort it.

Yeah Yeah - your a cleva fella:001_rolleyes:

Try blasting WD40 down the oil outlet hole, try putting petrol in the oil tank and see if it pumps through, make sure the oil tank breather is clear buy loosening the oil tank cap and putting a pipe ove the breather and blowing down it. If this fails, strip the clutch and sprocket off and pull the pump off checking the pump to oil outlet channel, the inlet pipe and filter and the pump itself. Not a difficult job, just fiddly.

Sorry M8 - hope the chips dried out ok:001_tt2: The work you are doing is never simple - did an 044 recently - the owner stripped it down but got to the point where he felt uneasy about going any further, the saw was a bit of a pig as the crank bearings had welded themselves to the crankshaft - fortunately a set of pullers, a mallet, a can of WD40 and going easy with a large screwdriver got it apart and now has a new bearing and is a sound runner. We didn't even mention pressure checking - when you do this sort of work you MUST make sure the crank case holds pressure - i.e. all mating surfaces and rubber components are in serviceable condition. Failure to do this can seize te engine and/or cause unstable idle! Hope it doesn't cost you too dearly - better than breking it trying to get it apart!

Coils usually have one of two faults, the actual coil gives out and goes open circuit or the trigger electronics fail - these used to be in a separate unit but are now integrated in to the coil - I have had a number measure earth to kill switch 3 ohms and earth to HT lead 6,000 ohms but still not spark so it is the trigger unit. Annoying and another £25 down:thumbdown: And before anyone says it - I know the HT lead can breakdown as well:001_rolleyes:

I think you may have run out of talent, the handle and cylindhead should be removed so you are left with just the alloy crankcase. You then need to remove all the case bolts and dowels where fitted and then the fun starts - you need to break the seal between the cases and getting the cases apart can be an interesting job. Seeing your post - I really think you should give this to someone who knows what they are doing - have the crank bearings gone??

If you look at the actual facts - a tree drops a bough in to a farmers field, the farmer thinks, a bother - I don't want that on my land so shifts it to outside his boundary - pretty common! Our Arbtalk friend spots the bough and thinks - oh, a nice lump of wood, I will chop that up and heve myself a nice hot fire! The farmer has broken the law by dumping the bough on anothers land and our lad has cleared up the wood that the local council or others would have probably had to shift. I have had similar, if I can locate the owner, I will always ask and have had good responses from local farmers - beer for branches - seems to work:thumbup: If a bough has obviously been dragged to the edge of a boundary and has been there sometime then I liberate it for the fire and would reckon most would thank me for my efforts. Did a bit locally and tried to find the owners - 6 months later there are two houses being built on the land - think it was the right call to take it! So - personally, I dont' step on others land unless I have consent but if a lump of timber is in a local ditch by the side of the road then my call is it is fair game and the farmers I have talked to are usually happy to have me clear it and unblock the ditch. Just my opinion - don't trespass, don't pinch wood cut by others that you haven't asked for but if it is in a ditch by the side of the road........

It would be interesting to do some timed runs using the same bar and chain on both saws - that will prove which has more power! Glad you got it going:thumbup:

Your right about fuel economy - take it easy - 65mpg - thrashing it - 45mpg - right, I am driving one of those "over gunned diesels":thumbup:

I have a Garmin and a satellite camera detector in the car - I have them because there are often roads with limited speed signs and it is easy to think you are in a 40 limit and then get done, it is also easy to be doing 10% + 2mph on a 60mph straigh bit of road in the middle of nowhere and then bang - mobile or fixed camera round the corner. Then there are the motorway gantry cameras and the speed over distance cameras................. I prefer to keep my licence clean and my hard earnt in my pocket, I don't condone speeding especially in built up areas, through villages and past schools but in this speed camera laden society, you need all you can get to keep your licence clean!

Inforad - very cheap satellite based system - I believe the "detector" types are illegal - satellite ones are still ok.

Get these guys to deal with it - [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6PGKcVr-8s]‪How to remove big stumps.20kg ANFO‬‏ - YouTube[/ame] Just make sure your ear defenders are close by!