spudulike

Back to the weekends exploits - Stihl back pack blower - bit iffy - decent compression, checked the piston and then cleaned the carb, oiled the throttle cable, ran it up and adjusted the carb all good:thumbup:

Well Alec - I think you have made us all feel a bit inadequate with the length of that thing - is it used to fell trees in next door but ones garden from your own property!

So true - had a nice Steak pie tonight with mash and cabbage - what a life:thumbup:

Now I am liking that idea, think you would look good in a chefs hat:lol:

Personally I use a tach but on tuned saws, you have to go by ear and the colour of the plug - tan is good but make sure that the colour is checked after a decent size long cut to make sure it is correct. If it is tan, it must be OK IMO! Worth checking again after a day or two - is the screw nearly one turn out?

Well Alec, thats the two man teles then- get those running shoes on.....you are on the other end:lol:

It looks like saws have hit where cars were some 20 years ago when they had carbs and no ECU and then went to multipoint fuel injection and ECU. In the old days there was a lot of fiddling with plugs, points, tappets and carbs - now that is a thing of the past and like it or not, the ECU takes care of most of these things without us getting involved. The downside of the autotune is that you can't see what is happening in it without the software and field adjustments are not possible. The upside is that ignition and carb settings are being adjusted all the time which means if your saw is about to bog, the saw will automatically adjust the ignition advance and carb mix to give the saw the best settings to stop it bogging down - it appears to work and all us tuners have on non autotune saws is a single setting to make an older saw as powerful and tractable as an autotune model. With the EPA laws in the states, these autotune units will be a thing of the future!

I fogot to menton, we run a "Le Mans" start so have to run 300 yards with the saw before doing the cut......not a problem is it:001_tt2:

OK - 1mm is well within the maximum allowed size, you won't get any problems with that - you could have probably gone further. If you leave out the gasket in future - use some high temperature liquid gasket - do not take it out and not seal with anything -you will get airleaks and the saw will seize!

Good on you for trying, hope it works out, you can drop the base gasket safely on a 357 and gain 15psi so a little more torque. The 357 has a pretty good recoil so although it doesn't feel like much compression, it probably has more than you imagine - the piston and ring will bed in and roughning the bore will help this. I found that widening the lower transfers wasn't a good idea as it lowers the transfer velocity and may cause issues with scavanging and max torque but see how it goes. I use the gasket as a template to blend the transfers to the crank openings, assume you have done the same. How wide are the ports - you have to be careful not to exceed the maximum safe spec - this is pretty wide as the skirt allows it but too far and the ring may snag! I am guessing you have radiused/bevelled the port edges - failure to do this well will cause serious issues!! Let us know how it goes.

Any two stroke motorcross engine with a powervalve and 20+HP on tap - will have more than double the power of the largest commercial chainsaw:thumbup: You could use the old school Honda red rocket 250cc air cooled - fast bikes!

Firstly Rich - you got too much time on your hands my friend:001_rolleyes: If I was to do it, I would think a bike engine would be the way to go - even a lowly 125cc will make 20 - 25bhp if it is a YPVS one - a motocross engine would do it. Other than that one of the small Honda 400cc fours will give you 40 - 60bhp bigger??? ......Suzuki GSX engine - that will do it nicely. My choice - keep it light but powerful - any of the Yamaha YPVS engines - very trick way of keeping the power in a nice fat powerband, light and high HP! Single cylinder motocross would be the best! Interesting project - I was thinking of using a bike engine on my Suffolk Colt - thought I could put a seat on it but no time!

The day of reckoning is getting close Rich - I trust you have some pretty hot 60cc Stihls handy as you have three ported 357XPs and a 560XP in standard trim to beat at the next boys day out. I have one last trick to do on my 357 and hope it will batter the 560XP in to submission this time - only 0.4 secs off on three cuts last time:lol: Burrells one was pretty much keeping up with a MS660 on a 25" bar last time I spoke to him........good luck:thumbup:

Ahhhhhh cake - all is good now:thumbup: Yeah, boys day out -not at the mo, the weather is crap - freezing cold or pissinng it down - need to get MattyF involved to make sure the yard we used before is still available - we did leave a fair pile of woodchip and cookies when we left - that is wood cookies and not the choc chip variety:001_rolleyes: We now have three ported 357XPs, a ported 395XP and various other kit including a 298XP plus my now ported 181XP..........and so the list goes on:lol: Robbin Dagger - I have heard of Robin Bas£$"ds:lol: Some of their kit has kawasaki engines - not come across anything like that though....sorry!

Technically if the diaphragm was holed, you would get half teaspoon full of fuel out when left standing and that would be it! The needle valve however, if that was leaking then if the tank had positive pressure (most do) the fuel would be pushed through the carb and run in to the engine. The easy check for this is to attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pipe connector and look for leakage - it should hold pressure! Has the piston been checked by removing the exhaust? Other than that - the carb may need a retune if the saw is reasonably new and is running in! Stihl will set the carb a tad lean to reach emmission rules but better settings that may give slow pickup when run in.

I have been through the pain barrier and come out the other side, got to a point where I told the guy to do one.......and he did and another who was being inflammatory. Admin were a tad slow but got there in the end:thumbup: All I can say is that we have some good banter on the chainsaw forum - thats where us techs hang out and the mix between piss taking and serious help is spot on! I get loads of thanks for the help I have given and to me, that is what the forum is about - sharing the info and love not trying to belittle others!

Its all right you saying calm down - I had two nights lack of sleep:lol: up all night, pacing about, delving deep in to my knowledge to come to the correct solution!

Metering arms out of the packet are not set.......with the 026 carb, it is set either with the Walbro Golden Gauge or with a straight edge over the LOWER flats of the diaphragm chamber either side of where the metering arm sits. I remembered after you had picked it up that the arm was a little low and I did reset it - not 100% sure it was the issue but I know it can be!

Sorry to piss on the fireworks but can't stand the suspense of another 3 day episode like the MS200T:001_rolleyes: Just pull the carb out, whip the diaphragm cover off, pull of the diaphragm, bend the metering arm so it is in line with the carb cover, reassemble and it will start:thumbup: Alec - just remembered - I did this to yours as part of the going over:thumbup1:

Hi...Mr thicky here - I stare at the saw and the saw stares back at me.......so I boil its bits in me ultrasonic cleaner - there that learnt him:lol: What are AVs anyway -guess Audio Visuals??? Everybody knows Husqvarna have the best AV mounts:001_tt2:

The carb is now cleaned on the Stihl hedge trimmer, sharpened it, repacked the gearbox with grease and it purrs like a kitten:thumbup:

I personally can't imagine any dealer or service centre will have the equipment to test vibration levels - sure, the manufacturer will and specialist measurement organisations such as British Standards, MIRA and many specialist Universities but the average tech......No! I would of course change AV mounts on customers request and it isn't a problem to do so and also understand the importance that the AV mounts. There are other influences on vibration such as engine wear, bar wear, chain sharpness and condition, chain depth gauge maintenance, sprocket wear so AV isn't the total picture! I believe the council run teams will have a duty of care and H&S procedures but many smaller run organisations will have less controls and procedure in place! From much of the kit I see, many pros use their saws till they die and then worry about getting it fixed - chain brake mechs on MS200Ts are 80% of the time, unserviced, full of crud and not as sharp as the manufacture intended - not sure which is the bigger issue AV or brakes! So, in short - I replace if damaged, I replace on customer request otherwise I leave them as they are which I would think most repair centres will do.

You would probably need to use a very hot knife to fold in melted plastic - many epoxy resins degrade with fuel and are not suitable to use for repair. Make sure the repair is a solid one as leaking fuel is obviously a fire hazzard!