spudulike

Rich - going back to your carb - I have seen loads of these and I would boil it in the ultrasonic cleaner and this would normally fix it! I had a MS390 like this once, I tried a carb of another MS390 and had the same issue and thought that two carbs wouldn't have the same issue....would they - tried one off an 029 after almost rebuilding the saw and bingo - worked perfectly! Stick it in your US cleaner for an hour and try it again - seen too many of these saws giving this type of issue!!

Yeah - take the rubber oiler connector block out and remove the bolt that is hidden by it:001_rolleyes:

With what you have done Rich, it should run - have you checked the diaphragm is the right one - I had these issues with one I had in - the central stud was a long one like the one on a 026 diaphragm:001_rolleyes: The only thing to go against this is the fact three carbs haven't solved it???

In answer to the question £250 - £350, on what your insurer will pay out - if you have new for old policy- you will get new market value. If it is replacement it will be a second hand one - simple:thumbup:

You can try any of the sponsors on here that advertise spares or online - I use Greenstripe.net if any of the sponsors offer a similar service, chime in please:thumbup:

Pretty much the same here and very rarely find myself looking at service manuals - usually done just for specifics - plug types, carb settings or maximum revs etc Yeah - most of my work is a full refurb as by the time I get the saws, they have been thrashed to 2mm of their life and changing the plug and filter won't cut the mustard - far away from a yearly service! Much of what I do is from a distance so my prime goal is 100% perfection as the owner can't "pop the saw back" easily - hence the overkill approach costly in time but have only myself and the end user to satisfy! If doing a regular service, I would follow Garden kits style MO but have only had a few like that in - most are buggered with the owner wanting a good but cost effective fix - out of the reach of a dealer but viable with what I do. I did use a checklist for a while but it all costs time and effort to complete when all the owner really wants is a reliable cost effective repair/service - I do keep any replaced parts for the owner to see - sort of old school really!

Rich - if you have done all I have suggested, it is now running beutifully:lol: If you have tried a number of carbs, including known good ones then it can't be the carb. Have you checked the positioning of the carb boot, if it has rotated round when you put the boot/manifold retainer on, it may not line up with the carb impulse hole correctly! I have had this in the early days!!! Have you tried disconecting the kill wire?? You could have HT leakage on the plug, the cap or HT lead - possible but not had this ever! Have you tried a different coil - I have never had one go on an MS200 but again possible! The key hasn't busted in the flywheel has it - it will give a flubby bogging running engine with possible backfiring. There aint a lot left now bud, shame you aren't closer as I love a challange:lol: Usually new seals and a carb clean and these little saws sing!!

The one I have doesn't have a typical tank on it, it is basically an electric motor driving a single cylinder pump that builds up pressure against a valve that exhausts at pressure - bit like a big version of a car tyre compressor! The good thing about it is it is cheap and provides pressure with no charging time. The bad side is it is no good for a regulated supply for paint sprayers, sand blasters etc but for air pressure for an airline, it is fine.

Strange one Rich, check the tank vent is free - not sure if you have the red rubber mushroom or the one on the tube but make sure it allows air in and seals when blown. Check the fuel line is OK - you can pressure test the line with the filter off and then use your new vac gauge on the fuel line to check the tank vent is OK. I guess the impulse line has been connected correctly on the underside of the handle? When you pressure check, waggle the impulse line about a bit where it goes in to the engine - they often get damaged here. When you are pressure/vac testing have you rotated the crank round with zero loss of pressure - you need to note what it is with the crenk in a certain position and then rotate it through 360deg but give it small back and forth "waggles" as it goes round - if it leaks at all then push on the crankshaft on the clutch side and see if air pisses out in certain positions so find out where in its rotation it leaks and apply pressure in this position - these seals go hard and lose flexibillity. Other than that, make sure the carb boot tab is located slightly to the right of the corresponding mark on the cylinder - it ensures the impulse hole lines up correctly! Good luck

You sure the new carb is a good one? Make sure the impulse line is clear of blockage....AND connected, make sure the carb boot is alligned correctly and the impulse hole in the carb lines up with it. The symptoms you have are classic for a bad carb:confused1: As Mike said - check the ignition over - you may have the kill wire earthing or too large a coil to flywheel gap - this will make it run pretty bad as the ignition will be retarded!

Interesting one Barrie - TBH I always prefer to do a full strip clean and rebuild that includes pressure/vac/comp tests, carb rebuild - the works - I charge....a sum:001_rolleyes: for this but it weedles out all the crap that can stop a saw working and make the owner bring it back a week later - even then one or two can play up:blushing: The times I am asked to do specific jobs, they often come back with something that has failed that wasn't checked on the specific repair - last one was a fuel tank change - week later it was back - a broken clutch spring and then the recoil rope snapped just after the pulley and the bloody carb had gone wobbly:thumbdown: Both would have been picked up on a full service.....Sorry Peter and hope it is OK now:thumbup: I often spend longer than I should on a repair but am not running a busy business with other repair/servicing commitments like Gardenkit. A service - just depends on what it entails and what the customer wants - I generally prefer a total overhaul on a non working or badly running machine, that way I end up doing the full job, charging for the full job and not having later problems I have to turn around and fix at a later date. IMO - owners often don't have a clue about the gneral condition of their saws - MS200T chain brake internals for instance - nobody seems to clean them out:lol:

Damn:lol: glad it is running but not sure what the "sprocket ring" is or what effect it would have on the saw - possibly the retaining washer behind the eclip or the rim drive:confused1: All very strange!

looks like you are using a red permanent marker stuffed in the carb boot as well:lol:

As the title says - got a project on and need part 1122 400 1214 which is a later model flywheel for a Stihl 066. The aluminium ones only fit the earlier 13.5mm crank and the poly ones will not fit! If any one has a wrecker........ Just for info - the 064 one will not fit - much thinner!

As Barrie says - don't even bother looking elswhere - Rowena are the best.....better than best - I just pop them a mail (they always answer within four hours), they send a paypal request, I pay and a day or two later:thumbup: Full carb kits are around £12 delivered - that is the original kit and not suspect Chinese ones - service is great:thumbup: Just make sure you know the carb type and machine it is off but sounds like you are already there:thumbup:

Saw fuel tanks often build up positive pressure, this can push fuel in to the carb, if the needle valve leaks it can force fuel through the pumping section, past the needle valve, in to the diaphragm metering section and finally in to the carb throat to run in to the engine. I would fit a FULL new carb kit, make sure you set the metering arm to be inline with a straight edge across the carb body (where the gasket sits) and all should be good. If the saw is not popping/starting within four pulls with the choke on and is flooding in this period then that is wrong - if you pull over a saw over 6 pulls + with a choke on then it will flood! The problem in this case may be the fast idle latch or the L screw being too rich causing the saw not to "POP" on the first few pulls.

Looks like mine, useful bit of kit for vacuum checking - always good to do both checks (pressure and vacuum) as items can leak in one direction and be sound in the other - crank seals are one!

Bet your wife loves your oily smelly saws in the kitchen:001_rolleyes: Glad you got away with it - thieving bruggars

I have had this happen and all I can say is that it happens when the thin plastic plate that goes in to the fuel hole first doesn't turn as you rotate the flippy cap round - it you stick something in the small holes that are in it and help turn it round as you turn the flippy cap, it works fine! I have filed the edges of the inner cap before and it seems to help. They have driven me mad in the past Pushing them in harder seems to make it worse!

As Stubby says - same internals as the 365 but different colour, recoil cover and top. Slower revving but decent saw for ringing up.

Nice one Barrie - I often get "I've tried everything" to which I reply - "if you have tried the right things, it would be fixed":001_rolleyes: Martin - I think you owe me a bakery:lol:

5mm is around the minimum bepth that is needed - the tie plates of the chain should run on the rails - worth putting the bar in a bench vice and puting a straight edge across the rails at 90 deg to the bar. The edge should sit square to the bar - if one rail is longer than the other then the longer of the two needs grinding down to square it up. Usual signs of this are cuts wandering off from square, cutters on one side of the chain wearing faster than the other and the reluctance to keep cutting in big cuts with the saw just going full bore with no cuting happening.

Check the bar isnt bent - take it off and put a straight edge against it! Is the oiler working OK - lack of oil can make the chain tighten and eventually come off - first sign is overheating and a brown coloured chain that is stiff. Do you put a wood chock under the bar tip and push the saw downwards when tightening the chain - it pretensions it and stops the bar moving on the first cut. Are you doing the bar nuts up tight enough? Larger Stihls use 1.6mm gauge - are you sure your chain is correct and not wishing to teach you to suck eggs but make sure the chain is the right pitch - 0.325 and 3/8" are the most common. Make sure you have the right one.....I have seen a 3/8th on a 0.325 sprocket before:001_rolleyes:

Just finished checking over Burrells rebuilt 372XP, pressure/vac and compression checked - all OK, thoroughly cleaned the carb and then reassembled and adjusted - all seems OK and just needs him to break.......sorry .....test it:thumbup: Also got a small Efco topper in that just wont run - just pops a bit. Pulled the carb and cleaned it and also noticed the primer bulb was ineffective, reassembled it, refitted the fuel filter on to the fuel line and cable tied it in place - tried firing it up at 11.00pm last night and got abused by the wife about gassing the garage out and making the walls shake - it isn't even ported:001_rolleyes: From the little bit I ran it, it seems a lot better but will run it up at a more sociable hour:thumbup: Trying desparately to get a day off and service my mower and fix a power jet washer that has no jet or wash - just pulses so probably a pressure switch in the water inlet feed!

The saw runs on AC current, it is the frequency that needs adjusting - it is 50hz when it rolls out of the socket but personally find 43.5hz is the way to go giving more torque and top end power:thumbup: