spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Have you tried holding open the throttle fully after the brushcutter has fired on choke and after taking the choke off - it may be that the throttle isn't being held open on the fast idle setting!
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:thumbup:Glad you are happy with the work I did on it and all is working well
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That brake cover looks pretty average compared to the MS200T ones I have had apart, you can usually tel how cruddy they are from how the brake snaps on or not and the sound of it - dull and thuddy and it is full of chip.
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It was removing and replacing the pump I was talking about, does the pump gear wheel look ok or is it rounded?
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He's too busy prancing round the kitchen in a pinnie baking cakes:001_rolleyes:
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It's because you are a Husky man Andy, the tools respond to the love:thumbup:
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You guys are learning......well some of you are:001_rolleyes: Stubby is correct, the oil is the defining part and not the machine, the older tools say 25:1 as the oil of the day was ....well...older and not as good as the oils that are around now. To put it in to context, I can run a hot ported saw at 15,000 rpm at 50:1 - I think your blower may be OK with the same ratio:lol:
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50:1 in all tools if the oil is specified at 50:1
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There you go Rich, words of wisdom from two old farts:thumbup: Stick to the pro saws - I try to avoid the MS171/181, Husky 136/141, McCulloch, Ryobi saws - very difficult to give an owner a £90 repair bill on a saw worth £100 when all he does is cut a bit of firewood with it. Easier to repair the pro stuff that gets used daily to make the owner a living! Let us know how you get on..and how your day was:lol:
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My favourite is "You reap what you Sow" or to be more precise "As you sow, so also shall you reap" - a biblical quote and so true in everyday life! On a similar vein - "Treat others as you would like to be treated" Both go a long way in my books!
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Yes, 99.9% 0f heat seizures will be more obvious on the exhaust side as this will be the hottest side of the engine, I have seen them pick up on the inlet side as well and some spread around the complete piston but are less common. The cylinder may be salvageable, personally I would take it to a reputable tech and get them to inspect the bar and chain, the blackened clutch and then remove the clutch to inspect the oiler pinion and crankcase seal. It is possible the oiler pinion may have failed if the crank got that hot and this would have also caused the chain to bind in this modified bar. IMO - the guy who ground the 1.5mm bar to fit a 1.6mm chain is misguided and a danger to himself and others!
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If it was an issue with the chain and bar, these parts need inspection, it is possible the chain was far too tight on the bar and that caused clutch slip hence it being black! Whether this would cause engine seizure is debatable, usual suspects are no oil in the fuel, old mix, incorrectly adjusted carb or air leak. Can't do much else without inspection. I guess the clutch could have got that hot it melted the crank seal but have never seen it before!
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You have a good memory - you can knock the rails back together if they are splayed and also dress uneven rails back to square - just depends on your budget and skill/patience. It is very easy to get tight spots but a good finish is very doable if careful.
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Sorry bud, they are a mare, when you fit the new one, take off 1/8mm on the mating surface of the pump so the gear is pushed a litle closer to the pinion, it will make it a better fit but don't go too far:lol: I learnt a long time ago - you will spend an hour or two on this job and the guy will expect a £20 repair - the moral of the story is stick to pro saws that have a good residual value as the owner of a £350 saw wont baulk at a £50 - £100 repair for his work saw that will earn him that in the first four hours of getting it back to work. Similar repairs to each saw all take the same time but some just arent worth it. Good luck!
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Well enjoy that one Rich - the whole engine needs removing to get to the pump and you will probably find that the plastic gear on the pump has worn on the pinion that drives it....I am guessing it is one of those 4040s or something similar - pig of a job!
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Adjusting Stihl carb - advice needed please!
spudulike replied to Treewolf's topic in Maintenance help
From memory, take up the slack in the throttle cable with the torx screw but not to the point where it changes the idle speed and then use the screw to get an even idle speed - the carb has fixed jets and if it is like the MS170 carb, has a single screw that adjusts air input for the correct idle speed. -
Not unless someone requests it, looking good so far, should come out clean from what I can see!
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I can't see grinding out the rails of a 1.5mm bar to accept a 1.6mm Stihl chain is an acceptable practice - I have certainly never heard of it before - sounds a bit of a bodge to me as it would make the rails thinner and what happens at the nose sprocket? Why didn't he just fit a 1.5mm loop, sounds like it is just so he can hold less chain stock and he shouldn't have done this mod without your authority. The black crap around the clutch is probably where the chain started binding in the rails making the clutch overheat and slip - not sure if this would seize the engine or not is debatable but I would check to see the fit of the chain on the bar and see if it is an overly tight fit or not and see if it spins around it freely. All sounds mighty strange to me:confused1:
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Have you sprayed that side cover Martin?
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It will be a limited coil!
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Been working on a Jonsered 2171 that I picked up for cleaning and resale - coming along well and the piston is in very good condition with the original machining marks still clearly visible through the exhaust port. This is the same saw as the Husqvarna 372 using the same crankcases and pretty much the same cylinder bar the inlet manifold. Should be a good saw once done. Shouldn't be long before it is ready to sell.
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Been belting out the MS200Ts this weekend, had one in that was in good clean condition, not revving out but the idle was good, found the problem, split carb boot - not a common fault but comes up now and then. Good thing it was caught quickly, it avoided it seizing. The saw was fully refurbed, decoked the cylinder - exhaust port needed a good clean up - carb cleaned and all running well now.
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Probably the oiler pinion arm slipping round the pinion, one of the most common issues and a cheap and easy one to fix - got a picture of a bad one on "what's on your bench":thumbup:
