spudulike

Forget it, just read the post again - a little ambiguous:lol:

If you can get hold of free wood then they are brilliant and very efficient, if you are having to pay for your logs then not so good:thumbdown:

Well you are pretty close to me (circa 25 miles), if you get stuck then PM me and we can sort something out and it WONT be another £600:lol: Even if your mates saw is not running well, hopefully his issues may be different from yours and you can see if it changes your saws running characteristics! From what you have done, it sounds carb related to me.

The oval aluminium one!

I'll leave Rich to his flower arranging and tapestry, it really is more him:001_tt2: Be quite funny having an all out punch up with only handbags allowed - be a good one for Youtube - what do you reckon Rich? No bricks allowed, don't want to mess up your youthful good looks:001_tongue:

Yes, he means a welch plug!

I need a photo of the choke end of the carb to tell, your symptoms sound a bit accelerator pump related as it is effecting the idle and high speed. Other carb issues usually mess up just the idle or high speed running.

If you have a multimeter, check the leaf spring is earthed - you did bolt the wire back to the engine when you rebuilt it....didn't you:blushing:

On the not turning off issue - make sure the bit of brass on the end of the black wire is contacting the stainless leaf spring on the on/off/choke lever. Sounds like you are close to fixing it 100%.......well done:thumbup:

Been porting again, finished a Husqvarna 350 - nice pick up now and sounds a bit more urgent - be nice to see it against an 026 Stihl wouldn't it Rich:thumbup: Did a couple of muffler mods on a brace of 372XPs and set about porting them today - you can see what effect the modifications have to the lower transfers when the cylinder is put on a crankcase side - this is a Jonsered 2165 but same construction! The lowers are blended and raised in to the crankcase cut out creating less hinderance on the flow. All the ports were widened and re-profiled, rear uppers reshaped to improve scavanging and the base gasket dropped out to up compression.

Too far for me, think Eddy is close to you, if you get stuck he may be able to help you.

I usually take the screw in bit out and clean it.

TBH I am bloody amazed, £600 and the thing doesn't work.....I have repaired many of these machines and one or two have gone wobbly after a bit of work - all I can do is run them for a limited time so it is a PITA but is understandable. If the saw is returned and has had a FULL refurb, the extra work is done free of charge and think that is what it should be - sure any new parts are charged for but £600 - The most expensive MS200T rebuild I have ever done was a little over £200 and it needed a new side case and a load of other parts:thumbdown: Gardenkit is right and is one of the good guys - fair and reasonable I think the term is:thumbup: The saw should be taken back, the agent reminded that he has had £600 of your hard earn't money and that you wish to have the saw working at his expense! If the saw isn't revving up, it is likely to be either an air leak teaning the saw down or lack of fuel. Does the saw idle OK, If you can, fit a known good carb off another machine and see if it makes the saw run well and immediately, the carb either needs to meet a very good tech or fit a new one. The most likely issue is a carb problem but other issues can be leaking crank seals, leaking or disconnected impulse line and split manifold. Check under the air box on the recoil side, make sure the rubber pipe is connected up to the bottom of it OK. Where are you - you may find one of us is close enough to give some support!

FYI - I have trouble with certain carbs, the ones on the MS390 and MS290 are one of them. The issues I had with a couple of them recently were that they would start the machine but then it would die. I could get a few high speed revs and then nothing. I put these carbs in the ultrasonic cleaner, mine is a decent high power heated one, and bingo, they ran just fine. Not sure if it was build up af crud in the carb or what, my usual suspect is a blocked High speed check valve but it did the trick. Carb cleaner may do it for you but this is what I have found with this saw model......and it drove me mad and cost me a lot of time as I pulled a faulty carb of one machine and put a carb of another machine on it and it still had the same fault - e few hours of checking later, I found both carbs were bad:001_rolleyes: Other than that, fuel lines, fuel filters, tank breather, inlet manifold and impulse line may all be at fault. Good luck....it will make a man of you:lol:

Where are you located, possibly one of us techs can sort it. The part should fall out or tweezers should work, Mattys idea may work but if not, take the exhaust off and if this fails, take the pot off!

Set it a little rich on the top end - not really stupidly so but around 1K rpm off the top revs and then use it flat out - avoid doing loads of really big long cuts straight away one after the other where heat can build up but do use it flat out on some smaller ringing up and let it cool for a minute or two after a long cut. The theory is that you want the bore and piston to bed in whilst there is no glaze on the bore and the rougher piston and cylinder surfaces can wear themselves in together before glaze stops this happening. Try the H screw on 1 1/8 turn and set the L screw to one turn but be prepared to adjust for an even idle. The idle will need adjusting as it all beds in but hopefully not too much. Hope it all works out - the MS290/390 are right pigs to work on at the best of times - if you can strip one of these - other saws will be a lot easier:thumbup: Good luck

Good luck with it, hope it sorts your issues out and starts making you money:thumbup:

I usually change the carb parts and fuel line if the machine has run on conventional fuel for a couple of years when converting to Aspen. It is common to get the fuel seeping around where the fuel line enters the tank and seals when converting over without doing this. You may be lucky but this is what I do if I get a request for conversion.

For £50 you will get a non running old Husky and expect to spend out on a piston, carb kit, sprocket and bar/chain. £100 may get you a running 136/141 Husky or 018/017 Stihl - thats about it. I could sell you a saw for this money but it won't work as it is and that is pretty much what you will get - why not spend £150 and get a working saw - 345, MS210, 026 , 350 sort of thing?

The 130MPBK095 is 13" and uses a 56 link chain 1.3mm gauge 0.325" pitch - not sure how the current bar and chain come in to the equation - just depends on the bar mount which we have already gone through:confused1:

Which part of the carb has no fuel in it, the pumping part or the diaphragm part or both? If it is both - impulse, tank vent holed or kinked fuel line If it is the diaphragm cavity- stuck needle valve, plugged gauze filter or dodgy diaphragm Good luck

Generally from where the dogs are mounted - thats the front of the oil tank and not from the clutch cover!

There is no 12" available, just 13": - 1.3mm Gauge Pro AM - 130MLBK095 Micro Lite Pro- 130MPBK095 1.5mm Gauge Pro Am - 138PXBK095 Power Match Plus - 138RNBK095 Pro Lite - 138SLBK095 1.3mm will suit a lower power saw, all are 56 link 0.325 bars - The Microlite Pro with a 95VPX chain is a fast cutting low kerf solution. Please don't blame me if this doesn't work out, just trying to give help with the info to hand!

From the dims, it looks to be damn close to the Husqvarna small mount used on the 345,350,346,357 and many more models, same slot size, same adjuster holes and oiler hole position!