spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It could be that the carbon is closing the gap between the piston crown and the squish band - had a 390XP with this recently! I usually scrape the squishband with a sharp wood chisel - a few engine builders are known to do the same:thumbup:
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If you are interested, the pics are up on my "Whats on your bench" thread, I have repaired the 150 lanyard clip - don't think my one will break in a hurry:thumbup: The 346Xp ran, there was a busted clutch spring and a worn rim drive and will give the carb a going over and the recoil a clean plus a tach:thumbup:
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Had a 3120XP, 346XP and MS150T in today, the MS150t was "making a funny noise", first thing I noticed was that the on/off switch wasn't working and traced it back to the fact both engine mount bolts had failed, one of which was the earthing point - one had sheared and one thread had expired. I helocoiled both and also fixed the lanyard attachemnt clip with something a lot stronger:thumbup: The 346XP was a non runner but started for me, 150psi - I did notice the clutch spring was fractured and the rim drive was worn so replaced both springs and a new rim.
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I would say he would recommend a new saw:001_rolleyes:
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There should be zero play if the crank bearings are in good fettle - looks like one has gone:thumbdown:
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Hydraulic press:lol: I used to have two 60 ton American auto indexing CCD camera vision presses under my wing - fancy bits of kit, the tool sat on a pneumatic fed bolster so it floated, the printed substrate was held in position whilst the250KG tool was moved in to position using two CCD cognex cameras and bang, a perfect indexed cut and on with the next. Also had a smalle 40 ton british made press! I now use......a bench vice:thumbup: Polish the pullers - Nah, just don't use them that often but is one of those tools you always look out for so the one time you use them a year, you thank the Lord for them:thumbup:
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There are bolts that hold a cast ally shroud around the flywheel, these often come loose and sound terminal! - it is the casting the recoil cover bolts to!
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It is indeed, unfortunately too late to stop Matty beating his 372XP to death:thumbdown:
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I have modded the outlet on a couple of MS660s now and am waiting to see if it has sorted any of the issues - if it is heat causing the problem, the most simple solution would appear to be taking the exhaust gasses out away from the handle - you also have to take in to account the saw being deep in to wood as well as just freestanding. I have pics on my porting thread - it was a simple fabricated piece of stainless brazed in place!
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Stand for PM, I'd vote for you, do you want a deputy PM:thumbup:
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Then if you have stripped out all the moving parts off the clutch side of the crankshaft and it is still noisy from the clutch side then it must be the crank bearings:thumbdown: They will also normally sound a bit hollow and rumbly when the saw is revved up. You can check the crank for play and also remove the cylinder and feel for notchiness in the crank beaings by rotatiing the crank!
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I have been working on a set of Echo long reach hedge trimmers. The blades had no drive and found one of the conrods was broken - unfortunately it was the more difficult to get to. Splitting the gear assembly took all my pullers and was a damn tight fit - looked like the gear was also glued in place.
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Remove the clutch drum, clutch and oiler gear and see if the saw still squeals or not. Make sure you remove the clutch as running the saw with just the drum removed will take out the brake band. It is most likely the needle bearing if it squeals at idle but if it does it when revving then the clutch will be meshed to the clutch so must be the crank bearings!
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Well i'm guessing you use a ....................pivoted on the ................and bingo:lol:
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Bad news Matty - Have you still got the 560XP:001_rolleyes: A right kick in the balls...and the chipper as well:thumbdown:
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This is pretty typical of every saw I get in, all the MS200s are like that and are very dull to use but snap on once cleaned. It just shows the need for general maintenance, this is a safety device and should be cleaned regularly.
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Carplan Instant Gasket 38gm Only chose it as it withstands 200*c and is Petrol resistant!
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Use a gunson Hi Gauge - some gauges are really made for car engines but the Gunson one reads correctly on small bore kit - if the engine is a bit saucy on compression, wind it up slowly on the starter to preserve the Schrader valve!
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Temp resistance is usually 200-250*C on the stuff I use - never had an issue!
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I'll have you know that my workshop is in my garage whilst the wife's car goes green an mouldy in the drive:sneaky2: .....garden shed:001_rolleyes: One thing I have noticed is some saws need a damn hard pull to get a spark - MS660 and MS261 are two I have found - try earthing the plug and giving the pulley a damn hard pull - also try closing the gap up to two A4 paper sheet thicknesses - it may work. The spark testers are a posh way of using a plug with the electrode bent out at 45* from the other central electrode:thumbup: Also check for spark in a dimly lit room - the spark isn't always big blue and fat!
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Nice question, I like that question a lot.....not a clue how to do it though:001_rolleyes: I am guessing measuring the resistance of both units may be a start - I have a 181SE with a similar coil arrangement and can measure the same components. Other than that...not a clue - wet tongue on the plug cap:001_rolleyes:
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Talk to Goaty - he wears them!
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OK, all good then - I did one for an Ollie but can't remember his user name:001_rolleyes:
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It is to do with the unique colouration of the wood being submerged in water for so long! Those two are comical:thumbup:
