spudulike

My woes have just melted in to insignificance. Hope you bounce back but sympathies to you and your family on the meantime.

Well don't look at me, the only carving I do is the Sunday joint and we aint talking spliffs:lol: We actually thought you did well last year and were touched that you gave the owl away - nice touch:thumbup:

Get your dad to put the rubber gloves on and you can bend over:blushing::lol: I wasn't even thinking of you Matty, the one I have in now makes yours look like new:001_rolleyes: Hope it is all going well where you are now - whose going to do the carving at Ashwell show this year?

I know many will have other pet hates but here are mine: - 1) Home owner equipment in to service and the owner saying that there can't be much wrong with it:thumbdown: With a sigh I say, just buy me a crate of beer:001_rolleyes: 2) A box arriving with the saw in bits where the dealer or owner ran out of talent or the inclination to fix the saw:sneaky2: You NEVER know if all the bits are there or if any part is busted and all that oily saw-dusty crap that is all over the saw - think if I owned saws for professional use, I would own a compressor and clean them out once in a while! 3) The old saw with an attached owner saying "Don't spend too much time on it, I don't want to pay too much".....tough, old saws should be owned by owners that covet them and look after them in their old age. Old saws always have perished fuel lines, need carb kits, have buggered sprockets, are covered in antique musty smelling wood chip and are generally past it. Am I some sort of Magician turning crap in to gold - it all takes time and is generally MORE time consuming and needs greater skill and perseverance to resurrect these saws:scared1: Rant over - can someone send me a nice clean saw to fix for a change:001_rolleyes:

Don't we know it:lol:

Thats the High speed check valve - a one way valve that acts like a jet for the high speed fuel flow - it goes straight through to the carb bore if you look on the inside of the carb bore.

Evinrude Two-Stroke V8 is a Hot Rodders Dream - Road & Track Quite agree:thumbup:

Thats a nice bit of kit - I would imagine it is two TZ750s bolted together and nice expansion work:thumbup: Sounds glorious:thumbup: Just looked - it is an Evinrude marine 3.5 litre boat engine

If you do find that flange has worn through, check the outer crank seal for damage to the outer seal - I have just repaired a saw that had taken out the seal in this manner - fourtunately the owner caught it early enough not to seize the saw:thumbup:

For the record, the 357XP oil worm drive pinion has a flange around the front of it, this locates on a step on the crank shaft and stops the gear riding in and rubbing on the seal and also keeps it in mesh with the clutch drum:thumbup: Look at the photo below and you will see the flange- I am talking about the one inside the central hole and NOT the large outside one!!! If yours is missing then change the part - around £10!!

If the ring isn't moving freely in the groove as it sounds like it isn't, try a bit of brake cleaner or solvent on it and see if it frees it, if id doesn't, then let it dry and then give it some heat with a plumbers lamp and see if that does it. I had a blower like this and managed to free the ring in this manner and get it running again. You could try a heated ultrasonic cleaner as well, if you have one!

Nice one

If that saw was with me, the carb would go in the cleaner for a deep clean and a new carb kit would be fitted, if that didn't do it then the accelerator pump (yup, it does have one) would be replaced or disabled. If that doesn't do it, I would try to find a secondhand one on ebay etc. other than that - new carb time - that is assuming that the saw is holding pressure/vacuum and that the fuel lines, breathers and comression are all good! If the L screw is doing nothing and the throttle valve is correcctly set at a tad off fully closed, the fuel has to be coming from somewhere to create an idle - the only places left are the accelerator pump and high speed check valve IMO!

The problem will be that when the new aftermarket carb is fitted, if the symptom is still there, is it something else or an issue with the part:confused1: I did a 372XP recently and the carb settings which should be 1 & 1 ended up being 1/2 and 1 1/2 - a less experienced guy would have not been able to tune it in. Saying that, the saw did run OK and was sporting an aftermarket coil as well!

Get your carb kits from Rowena motors, the UK agent for all the main carb manufacturers, crap website but very helpful and you usally receive your order in 24 hrs, just mail them with your carb type and ask for a paypal request.

Always a pleasure and glad it is going well:thumbup:

It was IPOSTPARCELS whom I usually rate but this Irish delivery was a mare and not impressed by their customer services, shame they don't match up to mine!

The Parcel LOST IN SPACE.......actually Ireland has landed and I have been informed the ported 357XP "Is a bloody beast" so I am happy at long last. Two weeks of stress - bloody couriers!

One thought - put that pumping diaphragm against a light and use a magnifying glass to check for small holes - had this befre and an cause issues!

With the carb off and looking down the bore of the carb against a light source, how much gap is around the throttle plate and if you undo the idle screw, does it close completely? You may have a severely worn L screw or seat that is letting fuel through when it shouldn't - in normal operation, the screw should cut the fuel off when wound in!

That Jose fella is making the point I was getting to in non technical terms as above. If the idle speed is too high, the L screw will do bugger all as the H speed check valve will be in action - so..........set the carb on one turn and one turn, start the machine and see what the idle does, if it is in act too high, lower the idle speed using the LA (idle) screw. Once the idle is around 2700 rpm, you should be able to adjust the L screw correctly. Try it - the Chinese carbs may be worth a go but don't expect too much!

You will not see a leaking welch plug, do yourself a favour, take the carb off, if you have solvent in a can, carb cleaner, brake ceaner non oil based, take the L screw out, blast a little in there and also on top of the plug. Leave to dry, get some superglue and work a little around the welch plug with a thin blunt instrument - tweezer ends, blunt small screw driver etc. Clean off the excess and leave to dry for a few hours or better still, overnight. really push down around the plug - dont go through it but don't ponce around:lol: Try it again and the L screw, fully screwed in should kill the idle - as I said, the saw I had in recently did what yours is doing and I tracedit back to a leaking welch plug - it was a 365 with a Zama carb - the oval plugs tend to leak! You could try another carb if you know of someone with one of these saws.

It is probably just exhaust smoke, just make sure the valve opens and closes cleanly by pulling and pushing it and make sure the shaft isn't bent by spinning the top round and make sure the top doesn't wobble from side to side. If you REALLY doubt it, change it as if it snaps, the head will end up in the combustion chamber:thumbdown:

Bill - you are special to all of us on Arbtalk:lol:

The limiters are the coloured plastic caps and Not the springs. The factory settings are used to start, you then adjist the idle and L screw and then tach to achieve the correct max revs! The plug colour -after 15-30 mins, the plug will colour up and should achieve a nice coffee brown colour - it is best to do some long cuts before you stop the machine - you will get by without pulling the plug after stopping the saw mid cut - still remember holding the old 400/4 flat out before killing the engine and pulling in the clutch - around 100mph I think - on private land of course:001_rolleyes: