spudulike

I have use two and three leg cylinder hones. Yo have to be careful not to catch an open transfer or ports but you can get a good finish and one hone will do all chainsaw bore sizes unlike the ball hones although they are probably better but much more expensive. Don't use the hone to remove the transfer, use chemical and localised rubbing and follow through with the hone to break the glaze and give a good rough surface to bed the new piston in.

Not pigeons or sparrows is it, I have seen the latter shred lettuce....grrr

I think it is as good...or bad as some of the other crap that appears on this site now. Congratulations on the new home eggs, hope it is going well.

The grass is working well. Watered a day ago and after another hot day, the soil is still nicely wet under the grass. Will see how this goes.

That is a kind offer but we aren't anywhere near you now but thanks for the offer.

Yup, as above, stupidly excessively loud in the name of performance. If you work in deepest forest, fill your boots, if you do domestic/commercial in built up areas, forget it.

You take the pickup pipe off and de-grease the hole and the pickup pipes, remove the filter, put a suitable O ring on the pipe the filter goes on and push it over the larger round end that usually seals on the crankcase. Use a bit of liquid gasket on the o ring and the case and push it in to place then slide the oil pump in to place etc.

Sounds like fuel starvation caused in a certain position. Things to check: - 1) The fuel filter is in a position where it can pick up fuel when the trimmer is pointed down. Check the fuel filter is clean whilst doing this. 2) check the fuel line doesn't have a split in it - it is possible when the trimmer is pointed down, the split is out of the fuel. 3) If number 1&2 don't work, you need to check the carb gauze strainer (screen filter on the image) as it could be full of crud. The image below isn't your carb but may help. Check the flaps (reed valves) are not holed whilst in there. 4) If this doesn't work, it is possible it just needs a tune up. I am not familiar with your machine but generally, these type of barrel carbs are adjusted by taking out a bung on top of the carb barrel and winding the carb needle up to richen and down to lean so upwards for you. There may be another adjustment on the carb for idle but it may not have one. The idle may need tweaking afterwards.

When you run it, run it flat out for short periods of hard running to bed it in.....don't let it idle for long periods or give it less welly than normal. Just avoid long cuts. The oil leak...they do do that. Probably the easiest fix is a new oil pick up pipe but if you have some liquid gasket and a selection of small O rings, you can often get a good seal using both instead of the new part. Best get it fixed, done my one recently after it covered my garage floor with oil...again....but it is the best saw to use...the best of the best but it isn't completely standard!!

Looks like the crank lobe has been catching the inside of the crankcase as well. I would check the surface where the drum and oil pinion run on the crank shaft VERY carefully. The earlier ones had extremely ropy hardening that broke down very quickly scrapping many a machine. Get a magnifying glass on it and inspect for pitting before rebuilding.

Seen it on hedge trimmers, blowers and strimmers. Mostly down to the engine not being run on full tilt like a chainsaw does and at lower peak revs than a saw.

Just mulched the veg with fresh cut grass and watered. Working on the theory the worms will pull it down and in the meantime, it will keep the water in the ground and stop it evaporating. The beans don't look great this year, everything is slow.

Good question but can't answer it. I have often wondered the same but on the top end. The compression must be phenomenal compared to the start up pull over at 14,000 rpm. I guess if you tried to measure it, all you would get is an average pressure or vacuum as it all happens so quickly.

Good work getting one of these sealed. The inlet manifold and crank seals on the clutch side are usually difficult on these machines.

On the FS360, it sounds like the air filter is getting saturated in fuel/oil mix, this on an older machine, is possibly caused by a broken or significantly worn piston skirts causing blow-by from the crankcase back through the carb when the piston drops down on the power stroke. I suspect the fix may have been something much more simple so blocked exhaust/spark arrestor is possible as is carboned up exhaust port.

I read that and my response stands, get rid of the pulley rotor and replace with the single solid pulley rotor without a spring. I think the issue is caused by a bit of wear but is bloody frustrating.

If the engine hasn't seized then I would say that the fuel/oil have burnt off or evaporated leaving the engine looking clean rather than carbonizing leaving carbon and oil. So...no issue or problem, it's done what you buy it for.

I don't know but I reckon he is 36-37 years old!

L&S may not state they have stock but often can supply in days - make a call and see what they can do...unless a magic man comes up and offers you one!

The MS260 one is 3mm compared to the MS200t being 1.5mm - this is the measurement from both sides of the diaphragm. The difference in set up is that the 3mm MS260 metering arm is set level with the diaphragm bowl bottom whereas the 1.5mm MS200 is set to be level with the carb body - the part the diaphragm sits on. Your description of an L screw tune is completely wrong. With your saw set with the L screw at 1 1/4 turns and idle around 2500rpm, if you turn the screw in, you should get the saw rising possibly 250-500rpm just before the saw dies. If your saw is revving as you say, either the idle screw is far to far in or the saw has a big air leak. One of my own test with saws is that if you can wind the L screw all the way in and the saw still runs, the saw has an air leak or the idle screw is wildly to far open. I would suggest having the carb off and looking at the throttle valve then adjusting the idle screw so the valve is ever so slightly open - easy to see looking at it against a bright light. Set the H & L screws to 1 1/4 turns, refit and initially adjust the idle so the saw idles OK and then do the adjustment. The tank and fuel spurting....., the fuel in the tank gets pressurised when the fuel gets warm, if the tank is fitted with a ONE WAY breather that only lets air in, the fuel will spurt on disconnecting the fuel line. Some tanks have TWO WAY breathers such as the fibre pills and coarse screw in tube types and these will be less likely to spurt when the fuel line is disconnected. It is however, worth checking your fuel line for blockage and checking the fuel filter is not blocked. I have seen the part alloy ones have metal oxide blocking and issues in manufacturing or just old age. Goodluck

Did a Google and "Saxon" came up....their better known single was 747 Strangers in the night! Don't know if it was this?

I have done a couple of these saws and they aren't great but you should be able to improve the running with a bit of carb tuning assuming the gauze strainer isn't bunged up or the piston hasn't nipped up at some stage in its life. Generally, these saws are often set a bit lean so if it is idling OK, don't sod around with the L screw and if it is revving out OK, don't sod around with the H screw. Let us know more about the symptoms but 1.25 - 1.5 turns on whichever screw is giving you the bad running...L low speed or H high speed.

Cryogenics, that's the answer.

I did have suspicions with your Christian name being Aled.....unfortunately not just down the road and have knocked the postal repairs on the head! Sorry.

Yes, I have access to it....where are you in the country.....and don't take that as me wanting work but you may be just down the road!