spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The one furthest to the right is secured by a small screw (No 25) and the other one has lugs around the bar stud holes that grip the bar studs. If your saw has a screw hole on the bar mount then fit part 30, if it doesn't, fit part 31. The later part will be the screw held plate, the earlier one will be the interference fit one. Plate 31 does have two lugs to support the bar and plate 30 does have a hole in it for the adjuster - the one you use through the hole in the clutch/sprocket cover.....as others have mentioned.
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That must be one indestructible saw if you couldn't slaughter it
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Doh
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OK, thanks for the responses, it is what I thought and didn't think varnish was a good option for the reasons given. He is a few grand in to the project so another £100 on a premium preserver won't be an issue and am sure he will seal it at least once a year after the initial 4 coats. I have used Barrettines on a fence and gate which turned out well but appreciate the advice so far.
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My brother is building a posh lodge..aka man cave and he has spent a lot of dosh on nice sweet Chestnut cladding. He wants to retain the natural colour of the wood rather to letting it silver over time. He mentioned he thought varnish was best, I thought, in my limited experience that a clear oil based preservative would be best. He is happy to regularly treat it and it is always easier to re-treat rather than rubbing off the old treatment. So...do any of you have experience of a preservative/ covering that will maintain the current colour of the wood?
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I believe I drove through Clutcj when I was driving around Croatia on holiday!
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That's diplomatic!! The libraries do sell off their books....lets hope.......
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Please help me identify this tree.
spudulike replied to inda1298's topic in Tree Identification pictures
I thought the knobbly bits looked like beech. I have probably lost you all on my technical terms -
Aw crap, here we go again, the more oil, leaner running rubbish. Not being personal but it is utter tosh!!!
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Oh dear, he has been in his shed again Good find!!!
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You can pop off the top cover and the air filter then rev the engine and push the throttle closed with the carb mechanism rather than the throttle and that should tell you if you have a throttle linkage issue.
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The only thing that concerns me is that a 100:1 mix is all well and good but the amount of oil is so small, you are more likely to cock it up. I would always want to over egg than under egg the oil in a mix. Lowestoft FC used to sponsor the Amsoil Supercat powerboat and very nice it was to!
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All two strokes can suffer in this way but the 372 bottom end is a pretty tough cookie. Not seen many issues with it but you can get slight air leaks on the clutch side but a new seal generally fixes them. Worth getting the saw pressure and vacuum checked if it has just started happening but you may get over it with a carb retune although this may just possibly mask other issues. I have found the XT version to sometimes have an unstable idle and personally think the coil fitted on these machines had a different advance coming off idle than the earlier XP version. It can backfire on starting which supports this theory.
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I went to school with his cousin, she looked a bit like him as well!
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Sorry, I missed your reply but am glad you sorted it. I have found the radial seals pushed in to the main bearings on the clutch side of the 346, 550 and 560 do have a tendency to start leaking after a few years. Glad you got it sorted and you are happy now. Thanks for letting us know.
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Nice......but....back on subject....if you are using one of those "one shot" stihl options...just use 50:1 as it is damn easy as long as you use that fuel in around two weeks. Personally, I don't get through that much mix, even when I was running the business so used a small measurement cup and a 5l petrol can and measured around 500ml of fuel at a time and just "over egged" it a bit to get around 45:1 mix which worked in my workshop. As I said, it depends how much mix you use and how you mix it. 50:1 is fine and it is what the OEM recommends, just ensure a strato engine gets semi or full synthetic as they use less fuel meaning less oil to lube the main bearings in this type of machine. Keep the Red Stihl for older machines. Everyone will have his own methods and old mix kills two strokes so keep it fresh and only mix what you need for the next week or two.
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Tricky, if it was just a weak idle then, if all else is OK, there is a fix that ADW and I have discussed before. Something I had worked out and he had "developed" at the same time with no connection....that may work. See if he can sort it. On the MS201/540XP...the MS201 is easier to work on and reasonably poky in the Mtronic version, the 540XP feels good and has the nice double clip for strop and belt but is a bitch to strip. I don't climb so have no views on that side of things.
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I had an Euc for many years and hacked it back year after year at any time of year to the point the trunk was some 10" and the height was around 8' with no issues at all. The thing that killed it was the new owner of our house did zero maintenance on it, the tree went up to 40' tall and he had it down in the end! Oh....I got the logs and burned it...damn hot, lots of oil in that wood!!
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Hi is in the public eye and I would think they are wanting and negotiating an apology from him and if none is forthcoming, they should sack him otherwise, they set a precedence.....as my old Financial Director boss said on more than one occasion. Ah, this brings back my corporate past!! Be interesting to see what happens.
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Yup, 50:1 is all you need but I tend to give it 45:1 as that is what I do and rarely run much for any prolonged use now. My choice but 50:1 is all you need and don't use it after storing it for weeks, the fuel destroys the oil over time.
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I used to work for a €38 billion company, you could not say anything detrimental about the company to anyone on social media, customers, workers etc, if you did, you were reprimanded or sacked as it was tied up in your contract. So, if Linekars contract states he can't express political views....end of, no argument, he signed it and took the £££ no argument!
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With a fully synthetic oil, 50:1 should be all you need for a well running machine. You could use 45:1 as a bit of safety and depending on how you make up your mix and the accuracy of that method but if you use too much, you may end up with too much carbon build up so 50:1 should work as the manufacturer intended or 45:1 if you want that little more safety. A little note, for Gods sake don't say that 45:1 weakens the mixture as we have discussed this at length and don't want to hear it all again. I would rather go down the fish based responses again......perhaps I should have said for "Cods" sake!!!!
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Best news I have heard in years, perhaps we will get something better on TV than football now!!
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Best see if ADW can do it as I am not doing much now. Your dealer has a bit of a "scatter gun" approach to spares! When the machine is started and you give the saw a bit of a feathering of the throttle and a few big blips to get the heat up, what does the idle do when the throttle is let off. Is it a rapid stop, a weak idle that dies or a decent idle that peters out over 30 seconds or longer?
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My tuppence.....same as ADW. Your symptoms sound very much like the impulse line has come off and, like him, have seem the brass nipple come out. It is possible the dealer found this and put it back with a bit of glue and has blocked it? Other than that, a machine that age may have a bit of wear on the piston and ring. These early machines did suffer from ring wear and have had to replace them on a couple of machines as it makes the idle unstable and prone to stall. Did the dealer give you the CST printout from plugging in the autotune? If he did, show us a pic as you can tell the running hours and more importantly, the autotune fuel settings which will show you if the machine is compensating for an air leak.
