spudulike

It is amazing the devastation I can wreak when I am at least 400 miles from your saw isn't it Wes:sneaky2: I would tell you where to go for your carb kits but I know you like supporting your local agent and paying double what you should:lol: You always use a very sharp scalpel to slice off the diaphragm.........didn't I tell you:001_tt2:

Too many brussel sprouts and tight underwear:blushing:

It is what I was thinking, too much time off work, no money coming in, Christmas coming.......possible depression or worrying about having no cash - who knows:confused1:

That was a MS880 that I did and it didn't show up until the handle was removed to get the cylinder off, the top handles are pretty heavyweight on those saws! Reckon it was stronger than the original after completion

Seen their website but not used the product. Be interesting to see how it goes.

Love his sales technique:lol:

TBH, that's not bad, think this was around double that cost. That plate was something like 1/16th gauge steel plate, beaten in to shape with a layer of JB weld on the underside and screwed in to place. I don't know how it stood up to abuse but it seemed very strong:thumbup:

Here is the repair:-

Have you got a chainsaw that will cut down my tree? Me.....How big is the tree? At least 6' tall and 6" diameter Me......I will have a look and see if I can dig one out:001_rolleyes: I think the ported 357 may do the job....in under a minute - probably nearer 30 seconds!

The difference between success and failure is sometimes just down to tenacity, doggedness and down right drive! Glad all is sorted, sometimes it does take a while for the oil to flow through when the pump and ancillaries have been in bits especially with the bar on. At least is saves a trip to the dealer!

Well, don't tell me - blocked bar oil hole:blushing:

I had an MS880 in with a very similar fault. The spare tank was that pricey I made a metal support plate and bonded/screwed it to the bottom of the saw, sprayed it grey and then put the handle back on. It looked pretty good and solid!

As fast as I clear up the saws, more keep flowing in. Just got a 372XPT in for porting and someone else dropping in a Stihl 020AVT on Boxing Day:sneaky2: - it never bloody well stops:lol: Think I should have gone abroad for Christmas:thumbup:

Pop off the E clip (circlip) that holds the sprocket and retaining washer on, remove these components, grease the bearing with heavy HT grease or similar, push the sprocket back on making sure the oiler arm lines up with the small cut out in the outer rim of the drum, and replace the washer and e clip. Make sure the e clip is located correctly and off you go. It is worth pushing lightly on the opposite sides of the clutch in turn to gauge how worn the bearing is. If the play is excessive, replace the bearing and if still there, replace the drum. The grease tends to get chucked out PDQ, not much you can do about it! On 261s with excessive play on the drum, check the oiler arm hasn't been broken or worn away - it should mesh with the clutch drum notch. If it is damaged, order a new one and is available with or without the nylon pinion.

In two stroke terms, the power band is set by the top of the exhaust port but that is just one small part of the story. When you port tune a two stroke, you are trying to maximise flow through the engine and increase the fuel/air charge in the engine. You also increasse the compression and doing all this is to increasse power which isn't necessarily to increase the flat out speed of the engine under no load but to increase the speed of the engine when under load. It is a bit like revving your car at standstill or heading for a steep hill and flooring it. Revving at standstill is pretty meaningless - more important is the speed under load, the other is the torque or abillity to keep cutting when more force is exerted on the saw. It is true that a ported saw will hold higher no load revs due to larger amount of fuel/air being pulled through but the speed of the saw under load under duress is of greater interest and use.

generally under the stainless protector plate around the bar studs and oil pump! make sure it allows air in!

If the oiler is plugged, the air may have failed to remove the plug, it can be pretty hard and difficult to remove. If you use a liquid aerosol, you can see there is flow on it. If you can attach a pipe on it, blowing through it is possible. There will be something wrong with it, it is just finding it. Have you checked the tank breather? That can reduce flow significantly. Check the breather and look at the pump again.

Try Oregon Microlite Pro with 95VPX chain. It is a narrow kerf system with a 1.3mm chain on 0.325 pitch. The marketing says it is 15% faster in the cut and the truth is.................it is 15% faster in the cut:thumbup: I use this on my ported 357XP, you basically are cutting with a narrower bar and chain which saps less power than a wider system with full chisel. I have timed it and thats how I know!

15.5mm O/D - just whatever suitable stock I have to hand! Shutting for Christmas - will keep going until I am finished:thumbup:

I haven't read the rest of this post but here is my list: - 1) Flush the tank out with fuel to clear any gloopy shyte 2) take the oil pump off and get some WD40 etcin to one side of the pump so it blows out of the other side - if this doesn't happen, rotate the oil pump gear until it does. 3) Repeat above but blow the WD40 in from the other side of the pump - very fine woodchip can build up and plug pumps - a very common fault. 4) take the oil cap off and blast some WD40 down the oil pickup pipe that goes in to the tank. 5) blast some WD40 down the hole in the oil channel where the bar gets its oil from - make sure the hole isn't plugged. 6) CAREFULLY inspect the oiler pinion gear, make sure there isn't a flat worn on ANY of its gear, rotate it round following the thread making sure it is intact and perfect all the way round - I had one that had a break in the thread and had moulded in to a complete ring so it wouldn't drive the oiler gear. 7) Make sure whatever drives the oiler pinion gear is meshed correctly with the gear, if it is the clutch drum, pull it as far out as you can and ensure there is good contact between the two. If you do the above, it is highly unlikely you wont have found the fault:thumbup:

The MS360 is pretty much ported, there is a significant bit of port widening that can be done, the muffler lends itself to having a larger outlet fitted and the base gasket can be left out and still retain enough squish. Compression cold has gone up from 150psi to 165psi. I also tweaked the ignition by 5 degrees. I have tried it and it can be leant on hard without stalling it so it has plenty of torque. I still have to tach it and give it a longer run up but it seems pretty good now.

I liked my 345, didn't cost a lot but went well and cut a decent amount of firewood with it. Repalced with a 346XP now- like the 345 on steroids!

Not sure if it is a 345 if it has a bulb primer as the one I had didn;t have one - you should hope it is a 346NE:thumbup: If you are near Exeter, give Barrie (Gardenkit) a try, he is a decent honest tech with a good understanding of saws:thumbup:

I have a slight case of disability tonight after a huge plate of fish and chips but think I will be back to normal after a good dump in the morning:lol: