spudulike

I think the 135 is a bit of a step down from a MS250, I think a 445 or similar would be a better option.

I don't knock the sentiment but we aren't talking about starting up a business but we are talking about taking the earnings from that business or line of work and maximising the growth on those earnings. Most guys on here will work hard for their money and we are talking about the best way they can take spare cash and make it grow in to something worthwhile. There are many ways to invest - houses, shares, antiques, classic cars, wine.........just depends what floats your boat and what sort of growth you want from your investment. Shares in funds are actually a share in the companies the fund has invested in. If those companies do well and increase in value, so do your shares, if the company issues dividends - rewards for investing in the company, the dividend pays for more shares so you then get an increase in the value of the share and a greater number of shares. I find that not too many people have any sort of understanding of investment - I am no expert but know that sensible investment works! By the way - I am not having a go, just putting my point of view across and hope it may help!

From a techies point of view. 1) The screw in type can break their thumb tabs although it isn't too often. The type where you use a slot head screw driver can wear through or wear the slot in the cap. The O rings can start to leak and have had one or two of the larger ones where the threads have worn and the cap is almost impossible to undo. 2) Flippy caps - generally good but can leak but a new O ring and clean up usually cures this. They have a clutch type mechanism where the cap initially locks in to place and then compresses the O ring so it squeezes against the fuel hole. The main issue here is that if the clutch mechanism slips, the cap top doesn't rotate to the position the flippy bit doesn't lock down and THAT is a pain in the posterior. I have had to ease the tank and cap to get this to work properly - usually on MS200Ts! What do I like the best - Flippy caps I guess although they get more crap in them and more chance of chip to fall in the tank but they ARE a tooless solution where the Husky screw style ones can be hard to remove easily.

The hardest part is pulling a decent initial investment together and then having the discipline to keep adding to it regularly and having the balls to leave it where it is when the markets plunge!

It may be possible to push a pin in to both bits of HT wire and then use heat shrink around the join. You can get some that glues as well as shrinks or use a smear of superglue or some other glue that will bond plastics/rubber. Test it by sticking your tongue on it:sneaky2: Nooooo don't, it will kill you - a damp finger perhaps when running but it will damn well hurt if it is leaking - you could slide a length of large fuel line over the repair after applying superglue to the area to join. that would probably be my favourite method!

One of the saws up for repair over the weekend - a trusty Husqvarna 394XP that had seized slightly - I say slightly as it had enough compression to stop me pulling it over fast enough for a decent compression check. The bore has been cleaned of Aluminium transfer, lightly honed and the exhaust port cleaned of carbon and the bevel enhanced - don't want the rings catching. New Meteor piston fitted....what else:thumbup: Pressure and vac tests - failed with a huge leak. Checked the decomp valve, lapped it in with grinding paste but that was fine, crank seal on the clutch side was OK - sometimes smaller leaks can get masked by the larger one so will retest after I have replaced.....THE MANIFOLD - it was cracked and almost impossible to see unless against the light or with pressure behind it and bubbly fluid all over it - that is why I do these tests - to STOP failure of the new parts!!! The clutch was also shagged with the drum and clutch shoes destroyed. THis saw has been used for milling and its drivetrain shows that:thumbdown: Genuine parts on order, aftermarket option offered but we decided that it may be a rash decision - a larger bill than I had expected but all cleared prior to purchase and repair - just the way I work and will be a good saw once done.

They say a good investment fund will double over five years so: - invest £10K Year 5 - £20K Year 10 - £40K Year 15 - £80K Year 20 - £160K Year 25 - £320K Year 30 - £640K Year 35 - £1,280,000 You can't take ANY fund and expect it to grow, you can't take ANY house and expect it to perform like London or the Home Counties. A bit of luck is needed, you really need to invest as young as possible and that isn't always easy. All investment needs a strong stomach to stick out the rough with the smooth and reinvestment of gains is a must for best performance. I read an article about a guy that made a million pounds from investing in PEPs/ISAs by putting the maximum amount in each year, I forget what the maths were but the end result was far in excess of what you thought could be possible from the sum of investment. Read this for info He's made £1m from investment Isas ? and, he says, you can too | Money | The Guardian An interesting thread:thumbup: They should teach this stuff at school!

If I can arrange it and get the time out, I will compare it to my ported 357XP, a local guy has a huge lump of beech that needs cutting up and just need a little help with the camera! Burrell was up for it so just need to find a suitable time, may even get the Big Green Beast out as well and see how that goes now!

The smoking sounds like it is running rich so check the carb needle valve is sealing off OK. The fuel bubbling sounds like the impulse pressure in the carb is working its way back through the carb in to the fuel line and in to the tank! Why not just fit a new carb kit - get it from Rowena Motors and it won't cost a fortune! Worth checking the tank vent is clear whilst at it - the end is mounted behind a plate behind the clutch.

I know someone that had a property converted to a canabis farm by his tenant, smashed the place to bits, messed up the wiring and when the police busted them, made it a crime scene so he lost his rent and couldn't repair the damage for weeks!

Pretty good advice here, Shares are a long game - if you are 20-30 and looking towards early retirement then equity ISAs should be high on the list of investments, tax free and it is possible to double your money over five years but no guarantees. My basic advice is to start as early as possible, keep reinvesting even if the markets are not great (the shares will be cheaper:thumbup:) and you will gain over the years. A balanced mix of funds is good and keep an eye on them - easier than property and can be just as profitable! Compound interest is the game and is all about making gains and reinvesting so the gains add to the original stake and then gain some more!

Well, the 394XP took a back seat as it has a very work clutch and a big airleak due to a cracked manifold so cracked on with the 560XP. Cleaned and chamfered the machined skirt and opened up the area by the transfers. Put the cylinder on and took the squish measurement, it was lower than it should be so did it again with the gasket in place and Burrell has done a good job, bang on 0.6mm so very happy with that. Thought I had better check Matts assembly of the flywheel and good thing I did, it was pretty loose and the air injection duct bolt was most of the way out - it would have made a nice mess if it had come loose so good job I went in there - also sorted a couple of bent pawls! This machine was a wrecker but all back together now and all seems OK now. The good news is.......IT RUNS.........AND IDLES:thumbup: Bit of a relief, I just need to run it flat out so the autotune beds in and then it will be ready for testing!

Who needs to justify buying saws, I have a Stihl 009, 346XP, 357XP, 181SE and also a 066 and just cut my own firewood for a small stove! I usually use saws I have in for service to cut my wood so.........who needs justification - reckon the whole lot only cost me £400 but were wrecks when I got them and are now worth substantially more! How about buying an older large saw - I have a 280CD available - 80cc:sneaky2:

It was probably aimed at people who like downloading an app or pressing a button to make everything in their world be perfect. In this game, someone has to break a machine down, make adjusments and measure improvement. You have to measure degrees and have files small enough to make a small reduction in size and a way of tightening the central nut so the advance stays in place! Some lead and some follow - I have seen many follow what I do but few acually come up with new innovation. There are a few modifications I haven't mentioned that can be done and I do but others seem not to know:sneaky2: Brad has spent much of his time devloping improvements - why pass on all the techniques he has fought to develop! I like the sarcasm:thumbup:

I did the advance on ignition timing and measured the increase in speed at 7% which isn't that much compared to the muffler mod. The ignition mod is all about removing the flywheel and then either filing the moulded key on the flywheel or the steel key inserted on the crank and checking the advance with a degree wheel. It isn't really a mod for the uninitiated but can be done - Mattys 395XP runs a 5deg advance on it as does my 357XP! The advance can make starting a saw a painful experience if you don't start it with conviction.

Mmmm, havent checked the squish with the standard gasket yet, next job up is a seized 394XP, yours is next! Cheers Martin for the time, hopefully all will be good but nice job done!

I have done them with the engine running before-any swarf just gets blown out immediately:thumbup:

I have a 560XP, do you feel like modifying it for me as it looks like you know what you are doing:sneaky2::001_tt2: Looks like you are having some fun in that wood of yours:thumbup:

372XPs are generally pretty bullet proof and last a long time, I just hope the front casing didn't get a wallop fracturing the alloy and that it is a manufacturing fault. The felling spikes usually protect the front of the saw from damage.

It is all in the username:001_rolleyes:

What happens if you put the L screw on factory settings, do the revs race ? It sounds like a massive air leak to me. Has the saw been pressure checked, has the impulse line been connected?

Not in my book Barrie, I use google and would enter the closest large town or county area, the type of "equipent" - "Lawnmower" or "garden equipment" and then - "repair", "service" or "maintenance". If that doesn't get any suitable hits, you open up the area or the search terms from "lawnmower" to "ground maintenance"/"landscaping"/"powered equipment" or perhaps the mower manufacture and "agent". I usually avoid the YELL type listings but there again, I am usually searching for parts. Have you thought about eBay/local papers/leaflet drops? Just stick a big sign up on the roadside and block all the other lanes round your way like the time I popped in:lol:

Book a return visit and make sure they look after you:thumbup: The times I have said to myself.....I can just reach that or....just a little tighter.......it will only take five minutes....yeah, the hospitals are full enough as they are and the food aint great:thumbdown: Do they want the saw serviced:sneaky2:

Last year I got her one of those rechargeable hand held Dysons, great bit of kit.....she seemed pretty happy with it especially after the pie maker for Christmas! I know......I am one of life's romantics:sneaky2:

How many mince pies did you have over Christmas:sneaky2: Glad we didn't lose you:thumbdown: