spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Probably not worth it TBH, the muffler mods I have done have been quite effective at bringing up the MS201 to standard MS200 type performance. I havent really cracked in to one of these saws yet to see what the maximum performance I can get out of it is.
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It will invalidate your warranty if you do it and you should find the saw will get better with use as the piston will bed in with use. If it is still not good after the warranty has elapsed.........
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The usual reasons for a hot engine not to start are ....low compression, faulty coil/coil to flywheel gap or lean L screw carb setting. The clout to the coil may have damaged it - had a 357 like that many moons ago!
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Not a massive amount but like a few saws, it is a matter of tweaking many htings to get an overall gain if power! The muffler mod still gives the simplest and biggest gain.
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Just the muffler mod and ignition advance on the MS201
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Another happy customer - one day I will get the many beers back that are owed:001_rolleyes: Glad it worked out:thumbup:
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A vacuum in the fuel tank will stop the carb pulling fuel out of it and cause bogging in the cut and lack of top revvs. This is typically caused by a bad breather. Pressure in the tank isn't so bad and many breathers do not allow to vent positive pressure, only vacuum. Generally caused by either temperature differences or leaking carb needle valve. The only promlem with positive pressure is when it forces fuel past he needle valve and floods the engine!
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That smell is usually the fuel breaking down the fuel line! It is foul:thumbdown:
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Now you need to explain who The Fonz is and what Happy Days was.......for our younger members who grey up on Byker Grove:001_rolleyes:
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Whats in the pot Barrie:sneaky2:
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Got quite used to wearing safety specs most of the time in the workshop after getting an eye full of carb cleaner when cleaning carbs a couple of times. Hope it gets sorted soon Andy.
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Or just modify the ignition timing by modifying the key......a tad!
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Sounds like the bar rails are splayed - you will also find in certain positions, the saw will be revving flat out but will not cut until the saw is moved a little. The rails can be hammered shut but a new bar will be a better solution. Sounds like you need a 14" bar to me and that you have probably come to this conclusion.
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"It eases entry into tight spaces" Barrie - you crack me up:lol::lol: I do know what you mean and just use an LM grease myself......for the workshop ONLY before anyone else gets in!!!!!!
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I was surprised at the actual cost - Flywheel for Stihl MS201 - 1145 400 1200 | Stihl MS201T Chainsaw Spares Doesn't seen toooooo bad to me as many I have seen are in the region of £90 ex VAT! What was the outcome to this little story?
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He is ignoring my smutty humour:sneaky2:
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Need I say it Barrie......
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He probably had wedged something in to hold the flywheel and the impact on the clutch spun the flywheel enough to break the key. I have noticed many saws don't have the flywheel on particularly tight:thumbdown:
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OK, you have compression, that is good, the other guys are correct on the tank breather, that can make a saw run for a short period and then get a bit boggy and not liking to rev out. The loosen the fuel cap check should tell you one way or the other - you could pop the breather off and see it that makes a difference. I did have a MS460 in once with the exact same issues, I found the coil was a little too far from the flywheel and as soon as it warmed a little, the spark would fail so worth a check - just put a business card alongside the coil and rotate the flywheel magnet raised part of the flywheel round (piston will be near top dead centre) and loosen the coil so it is drawn toward the magnets and do up the coil again. Spin the flywheel and make sure it doesn't touch the coil.
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Well that isn't too clever - you should use rope down the plug hole on these small spark plug machines or the small piston stop tool from Stihl. As you have found, the thread is left handed on the clutch and an impact driver IS NOT needed! The flywheel........ it is possible to put the flywheel back in to place with a slight smear of grinding paste and then really locking it in place. You will need a fair bit of care in doing this so you achieve the correct ignition advance, comparing to another machine and checking with a degree wheel will tell you if the job is spot on or not. If you get the incorrect flywheel position, it can destroy the engine through pre-ignition. Anything more than an extra 5 degrees will be approaching the danger zone!
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I have a set of long nose pliers and some forceps - sometimes doing these fuel lines is like being a Gynaecologist when you dive in to the fuel tank to pull the thing through:001_tongue: I usually find cutting the end on the straight fuel lines at an acute angle so the end is a thin point of rubber gets enough through to pull the end out! Don't use this method on moulded ones!
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As Bill says, most saws have the H and L screws set to 1 turn out, not sure what your "S" screw is or if your saws carb has limiters on it. You could fire it up, get the screwdriver in the H screw, undo it around 1 turn and then rev it flat out and turn the screw in until the saw sounds a little thumpy but revs to what is normal without screaming.....if that makes sense! Set the L screw to 1 turn and adjust the idle to suit and see how it picks up/idles
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It sounds like the old fuel caused the saw to overheat and was in the edge of seizure. It does look like the piston is OK though so it may be OK. Get some fresh fuel in it and run it up and see what gives. Is there any scoring on that piston? It looks clean in the pic! The sparks will have been caused by excessive heta burning up the carbon in the saw.
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The man has to be fixing SOMETHING, can't have him missing out on all the fun!
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Hi Rich, good to see you around, hows tricks?
