spudulike

If it is really thumping at WOT then you should be fine. I have seen this two sided colour on a plug before, it is just th way the scavenging colours the plug. It should rev up to about 13krpm max!

The vid is a bit....strange, it is a different chainsaw and typical of the 395 copies plus the guy does a bit of Tai Chi at the end with a running saw - it is a bit Ninja. Must try those moves myself....get the neighbours worried that I have reeeaaalllyyyyy lost it:lol:

You need to ascertain what is missing, fuel, compression or spark. You say the carb is OK - most common issues here will be fuel pipe, blocked internal gauze filter or split impulse line. Compression either test or take off the muffler and look for those tell tail vertical scores on the piston. Spark - change the plug and check the flywheel magnets to coil gap = a business card will be the correct gap. Report back with how it goes - if you get stuck, you know where I am:thumbup:

Yeah, sorry Jon, just pulling your plonker! Hardwood in the Somerset area it is:thumbup: Hope you find some and quick!

Mmmm, so far we have HARD WOOD and MEMBERS, all we need is a male chicken and we will have a full set:001_rolleyes: Think you should try to use "Hardwood" instead of your spelling to avoid confusion as to what you want:thumbup: Is it just me??????

I think he is a barrister on the Cote d'Ivoire

Jon, I think you may want to re-name the title of your post as it is a little.......suggestive and may mislead some of our US members as to what you actually require! Do you do it on purpose to give us all a laugh:sneaky2:

The top handle is covering the yellow part in the original pic, look at this.....

With my logical hat on, I would say it is probably real as who would copy a chainsaw that they would only sell a few of. If I were copying a chainsaw, I would copy the 50-70cc ones from Stihl and Husqvarna as it is those that they would sell the most of. This will also be the reason that the 3120 and MS880 cylinder and pistons have so few aftermarket copies and why all those midrange saws have so many non OEM parts available! The picture does make the saw look a bit aftermarket but may just be the hue on the photo/camera.

It is possible it is the band but you aren't talking about a saw with loads of power so it should have lasted a fair while. The spring is the big one under the plastic brake mechanism cover - very rare for those to go!

Just take it easy when you put the manifold on. I have seen many with the piece that pushes in to the impulse hole on the cylinder, misplaced and distorted. The other fun you will have is putting on the clamp - I usually use plumbers grips. It has to be done with the cylinder off! I reckon that cylinder would have cleaned up!

Oh dear, what is Clarkson up to now - where did the info come from??

Check the clutch drum sprocket isn't worn, if there are grooves worn in the ends of the sprocket, fit a new one and make sure it is the correct pitch, probably 3/8" on this saw. If it has a rim drive on it rather than a spur (gear type) sprocket, make sure the rim outer surface is not heavily worn! This will stop the new chain getting stretched or damaged:thumbup:

I feel all rejected now:sneaky2: I know, junk it and fi a new one.....too easy for me:lol:

You are on fire tonight, ever fancied being a stand up comedian:lol:

:001_rolleyes:Very funny:001_tt2: Finding that red stuff that Zama use on their carb welch plugs appears to be the holy grail. I have used most stuff and the best has been cyanoacrelate (superglue) but am now trying shellac and also Loctite 638 as an experiment. Even made my own stainless punch to put them in on C1Q carbs!

Hows about you Barrie, man hug:001_tongue:

Best keep the vinegar for your chips. I use Brick acid as it is around 15% HCL/Hydrochloric/Muriatic acid and works well. Sodium Hydroxide/Caustic soda will work but not used that to date. Clean the area with solvent, rub lightly with some emery paper, apply with a cotton bud and leave ten minutes or until it stops fizzing as it will do once the aluminium has turned to salt (not table salt:001_rolleyes:) Clean the area again with solvent, rub with the emery paper and apply the acid again. If it fizzes repeat until all the transfer has gone and no fizzing happens. Any residue should be abraded away and the bore should have no deposits/transfer left. I usually hone lightly or you can hone with emery paper - around 150 grit - it breaks the glaze and helps bed the ring in quicker! If the acid fizzes along a vertical track in a straight line, you have a bad score straight through the plating, avoid using acid here as it will eat in to the underside of the plating. I personally re-bevel the exhaust port as you often get a build up of carbon and transfer around it. I have been doing this for quite a while and with much success - lots of happy people out there with saws others have scrapped:thumbup:

Just had a weekend of MS200 carbs, some really weird ones this time, a flake of black stuff under the welch plug - all the jets, check valve were passing a jet of cleaner fine but no idle and eventually guessed it MUST be the welch plug....and it was. The other was a leaking welch plug on the accelerator pump, a blast of cleaner gave a jet coming out of the back of the carb - never seen this but got it sorted. You live and learn - the last was a perforated pumping gasket, seen this a few times now! Best action is to either swap the carb out for a new one or to get someone worth their salt on it!

It is probably the accelerator pump Ian, all rubber components harden once they are out of contact with pump fuel. It is common on saws to start leaking around where the fuel line pushes in to the tank. I have recently taken to replacing the pump rather than blanking them off as I used to. If you get stuck, send them in one by one and I will sort them out for you if Eddies advice doesn't sort them. You may find just opening the L screw up 1/8th turn anti clockwise and tweaking the idle screw clockwise will do it.

And you can fire up a saw in your workshop with Aspen without sousing yourself in acrid smoke:lol:

I used to pop in and pick orders up and they were good like this for a couple of years but latterly, became more difficult to deal with and then the trade counter closed plus you had to order prior to pickup from their unit and the order often wasn't picked even though I had ordered 48hrs in advance. I met and often chatted with the owner - Andy, so got to know him a bit, seemed like an OK guy but the problem with eBay is that there are so many vendors operating out of garages and willing to operate on near zero margins and this was hitting them hard. I will miss them for the low cost oils and aerosols they used to do - shame they have gone!

Had a MS200T back in after it played up after porting and refurb. It was bogging and not idling and the guys local agent was muttering about saws not being able to be ported, the piston needed replacing and the exhaust had a hole in it:001_rolleyes: so needed replacing. When I rebuilt it, the piston had a witness mark on its skirt where carbon had caught it but it wasn't bad so with the owners agreement left it in! I measured the compression - Mmmm 220psi, yup, you read that right, 220psi:sneaky2: Not sure why the dealer thought the piston needed replacement as this saw kicks when starting and it REALLY feels high compression:thumbup: I took the carb off, think the dealer had beaten me to it as the manifold sleeve support was missing - there is no way I would have left this out. I stripped the carb and found the pumping diaphragm was perforated - had these before and usually spin a 6mm twist drill in each hole with my fingers to bevel the hole lightly so it won't happen again. All seems OK now, it fourstrokes as it should and doesn't rev wildly as it was due to lack of fuel.

Another interesting MS200T carb fault, this time the welch plug on the back of the carb facing the air filter backing plate. Never seen that before but all I know is it stopped the saw working well. Sorted it, resealed the plug by repunching the plug with a little superglue round it, tested and all good. Fitted a new accelerator pump as well and we are away, all good.

I have never needed to use anything bat a 1/2 inch drive tommy bar and suitable socket on all the ones I have done. Just get the saw on the deck, firmly hold the saw down and lift the bar, I can't believe you can't shift it as these saws are amongst the easiest - you didnt use thread lock on it did you?