spudulike

How the other half lives, while we slave away in our hovels

My holes still have the poison in them so all looks good my end:blushing:

I have tried a number of these type of brazing rods and had issues with most. One of the issues is getting enough heat in to the metal and the other, getting too much heat in the alloy and melting it:001_rolleyes: The only bit of aluminium I have brazed successfully was a small bracket and used some brazing wire I got off ebay from a model shop to make exhaust manifolds - it was to make a missing lug on a Stihl recoil side crankcase but I chose to rivet and epoxy it to the case after producing a new lug and mounting plate. They look great in the vids but personally, don't think they are that great. I would use epoxy or fibreglass resin on both sides of the leak after a good degrease and see how that holds.

I would expect nothing less, life is hard in Wykland isn't it:001_rolleyes:

The saga of my ported 066 Red Eye continues, a very old coil gave an ignition advance of 20 deg with no change on revving it. In the cut it had as much go as a bog standard 50cc old saw on its 20" bar so pretty crap. Technically a two stroke with a set advance should be around 25 - 27 deg which will make full power but lots of kick on start up. The lack of power I assumed was lack of ignition advance and the following backs this up. I have tested a standard MS660 and it has circa 30 deg at idle and 22.5 deg around 7-8k revs so this coil has a built in advance and retard circuit which I already knew but wanted to find out what and when it kicked in. I have now fitted a MS660 aftermarket coil to my saw and it is now idling with 22.5 deg at idle and this drops right down to 5-10 deg flat out. This sounds a lot but having done a lot of research on the subject, a good curve will be near zero for ease of starting, rising vertically to around 29-32 deg at idle and then down to 20 deg in mid range and dropping at max revs to 0 -15 degrees to protect the engine from pre ignition, the curse of ignition modification. Soooo - the answer is to take the flywheel off and position it ten degrees clockwise of where it is now giving a few degrees extra advance on standard to give the engine extra wallop but not enough to cause pre ignition. Anybody still following the train of thought:001_rolleyes:thought not......guess I do too much thinking:lol: In laymans terms - I now know where I need to be, why the saw isn't right and what I need to do:thumbup: Oh - I have learn't a lot about ignition timing advance as well!

The issue will be that the 020 will be a much older saw and doesn't meet the sellers description - seen that before:001_rolleyes: The main diferences are the MS200 has flippy caps - if the crankcases are MS200, then the oil tank will have a flippy cap. The 020 carb has the H&L screws closer together and the cylinder transfer ports have a seperator runing up their full length on the MS200 and not the 020. There were also a number of changes to the fuel pipe and tank breather from 020 and MS200T

I am a master tailor......well not quite but have taken the waist in on trousers, shortened the legs on trousers and done all sorts on a sewing machine, overlocker and with needle and thread - the wife used to make all her clothes many moons ago!

Possibly the tank breather, worth checking and is relatively easy to run the saw sitting on its side with the fuel cap a little loose. The gap betwen the coil and flywheel needs to be set correctly - too large and the saw will do exactly this. It is worth trying disconnecting the kill wires from the coil and see if this sorts it out, if it does, it may be the kill wires are chaffed. It may be a possible airleak in the manifold, decomp valve, crank seals etc - this would normally give a poor idle and soaring revs. Probably enough to go on for a bit! Have you pulled the muffler off and looked at the piston through the exhaust port? If it is scored, it may be causing the issues.

Here is the vid of the MS150, cutting very hard and seasoned Elm. Sorry about the crap quality, the light was fading! [ame] [/ame]

I was once repainting the crank cases on my old 066, the other half had gone out so popped them in the oven.......as you do:001_rolleyes: and put it on a low heat. Well.......she came home early, one foot in the house - "what have you been up to and what is that strange smell - oil.....paint?" Bugger I thought, looks like we are eating out tonight:thumbdown:

TTS eh - they were the go to guys when I was trawling round Santa Pod in my early teens, got my bike going a bit better, just wish I had been in to this tuning gig a bit more when I was younger!

They are on the list:lol:

No worries Jay, glad you are happy, cheers:thumbup:

Know what you mean, that MS150 is really tiny but is closed port and a nice little design - sounded truly woken up once I did it and revs like it is really angry about something!

What a life, flitting between Madeira and Portugal:thumbup: Sounds a little easy to me! Vid, will see what I can do. One really weird thing was the further the H screw is wound out, the faster it revs - hit 15,500 rpm at one stage, I think I need t take it all the way out and wind it in until the revs are right but at 5.00pm on a Sunday, didn't want to piss off my long suffering neighbours! I always thought this saw was limited, no limits on this one:thumbup: Interesting little project - I did what I knew would work and it seems to have done just that!

This weekend, I have been mostly porting a MS150, I would usually just stick the hole in the exhaust but this one wasn't running and the local dealer had said the bore was scored. Admittedly, there was a bit of brown residue on the piston but it looked in good shape:001_rolleyes: Stripped it down and it is TINY, I had to use the smallest diamond bur on it and be VERY careful not to go to far. The squish on the saw is tight so not much to be changed here. The exhaust port was widened, the inlet port was lowered and widened significantly, the upper transfers swept back a little and the lower separator rounded slightly. The ignition was advanced and the exhaust drilled. It sounds a bit angry now and picks up a bit fast. I am still playing with carb settings but I can now lean on it a bit without it bogging down in the cut. Early impressions are good:thumbup:

I had an 084 in last week, it has seized and is significantly down on compression. I have removed the cylinder and worked on it leaving it in a position where I am happy to fit an new piston in it and am sure it will work fine. There is still a score running up the side or the exhaust port but in my experience, this will bed down and not cause running issues. I also had a MS150 in for porting and thought I would show the difference in size between the two cylinders - that MS150 engine is tiny!!!

Yes, just checked my holes again and the poison is still there so my infestation has been culled IMO:thumbup:

Well I never found one in all the time I was looking, I converted mine by fitting a critical length of tube inside the brass connector and fitted a softly sprung presta valve. got a box of 50 and have only blown one in a year on a ported saw so a lot more robust. I did find a Chinese manufacturer but the delivery and MOQs were silly and made the venture non viable. I believe that these valves are similar to ones used on gas sniffers, it is the spring rate that is critical, it has to be almost non existant. If tha gauge is in warranty, gunson do supply new ones and you can make them last by not giving the saw a vicious pull on the first strok but by building up pressure slowly! Good luck with this one - I spent hours on it and got around 12 of the white snapon valves but got through a lot until I tried the Presta option.

I don't use one as a tool of my trade but in the eyes of a repair technician, the MS200T is best in my opinion, that good that it barely changed in design from 020 - MS200, easy to work on and in its modified state, runs rings round the latest saws! Just saying:sneaky2:

Ask MattyF, he was local until a short while ago and close to this area!

No idea, sometimes the coil body stays the same and just the HT lead needs lengthening on larger saws. As long as the coils body fits, it will probably run up.

If it is left on idle and then before it cuts out, you rev it up, does it pick up cleanly or does it smoke? Also, from stone cold, does it pick up from idle to WOT immediately or doesit need a minute or so and some coaxing to get there? Just wondering if the L screw is a little bit out!

I know, good for a laugh though:thumbup:

MowerMan is back wearing his underpants on the outside of his trousers again:thumbup: