spudulike

Coming along, hope it is a nice runner in the end:thumbup:

Just drain the tank and then start up to clear residue fuel. Leave the oil in the tank unless you use bio oil. This should be fine for long periods.

Each man to his own tastes - you are probably 25 years younger than me and THAT is the difference! My taste is tortoishell and green lenses or metal with gradient lenses and Oakley are not on my shopping list but that is just me, tastes change with age.....I also look better with larger frames!

White frames...classy:001_rolleyes:

If he handle melts you have a number of issues, a plastic that melts at too low a temperature, a handle that should have steel reinforcement where it gets hot and exhaust gasses that can rise on to the handle when in a deep cut. Having said that, I have seen some of the maintenance or lack of it that you give your saws safety systems. I reckon one in ten Ms200Ts I get in have a decent chain catcher in place and one in twenty actually have a clean chain brake mechanism! The last one had trashed clutch springs but what does that matter, the chain brake stops the chain spinning - the only issue is the clutch catches the clutch drum all the time and builds up heat that melts the cover....... Had to mill out the damaged plastic with a carbide burr:001_rolleyes:

Anything called Crystal are glass, the G15 Ray Ban lense is also glass as far as I know without looking. I like glass lenses as they can take a bit of abuse and they clean up well! I don't think you will get better prices - my Aviators were around £80 and the euro has weakened significantly since then

Trouble is that one pair just isn't enough:blushing: I guess if you wearing them climbing then plastic lenses may be the way to go and get something like Oakleys but they aren't my sort of thing! Wraps are good for driving as they cut the sideways glare when the sun is on your drivers side of the car/waggon I like the Aviators and are in fashion in a big way at the moment - gradient lenes look pretty good - blue or grey lenses look good. The website I pointed out also does prescription lenses:thumbup: I saw a pair I paid £90 from this site for £175 at Gatwick....I rest my case:thumbup:

Had the same on a Jonsered 2071 I converted to 372 top end!

Look as the right sunglasses as an investment for at least 10 years use and the extra dosh doesn't seem quite that much then. Ray Ban and Persol make toughened glass lenses, the beauty of these is that they last for years and dont get scratched so easy as the plastic ones - hell I have Wayfarers from the 80s in perfect condition. Cost wise - try here Sunglasses Ray-Ban, Arnette, Carrera, Persol, Oakley : Visual-Click they ship from Spain and can vouch that the glasses are 100% original and not some cheap tat - I can tell and have purchased 3-4 pairs from them between the Mrs and myself!!! They often have 10-15% off voucher codes so worth waiting for. Favourites are Gradient Ray Ban Aviators - Top Gun Specials Vintage Wayfarers - classic doesn't go out of style! Balorama wraps for the Dirty Harry look Persol 649s - I really like the finish on these - very well made with nice hinge detail and the Meflecto flexible arms make these comfortable. Personally I like tortoishell with green lenses - just my thing. I do have a pair of 1980s Wayfarers (black) and 1990s Ray Ban predators (tortoishell) I need to sell! Do a bit of work on the sizing as some can be pretty large! I can recomend this sita and they are about the best value online:thumbup:

The Xtorq has a decomp sticking through the top cover, the earlier model has it sticking out of the clutch side of the cylinder as per most of the 3 series Huskies! One easy way of telling!

I can do it but have a relatively busy workload currently, I guess it isn't going anywhere so if you want it down here, send it in and will run with it as time allows!

Funny as I have one of their empty boxes that had a 560XP piston in it that was supplied by a customer:sneaky2:

It probably failed down to the clutch side seal failing, I had an immaculate one with the seal completely gone - fortunately the piston was OK. Chances the cylinder can be salvaged, I think you will be stuck with an aftermarket piston but with better quality rings, it is probably salvageable and have a life after death:thumbup: Are you the fella I met with the 020 and 041 near Burton on Trent?

You have to laugh at some of the sales on ebay, just had an "066" in from a guy who had purchased it off ebay, it had seized (or looked like it) and a local dealer had stripped it, recommended many hundred's of pounds of spares including top end and crank and then asked £90 to reassemble it. The clutch and flywheel had been removed for some reason - really not sure why on a machine exhibiting seizure - possibly to check the feeling of the bearings but who knows. I have cleaned up the bore but noticed a chip out of the top edge of the exhaust port - I had thought it was someone using something jammed in it to lock the piston but when I took a look at the piston, I noticed it had been put on back to front. The ring would have expanded in to the port and eventually the inevitable happened, it snagged, chipped the port, damaged the piston and I never found the ring end but it isn't in the engine! The crank bearings were smooth and the rod didn't kick the pot over when I span the engine with the cylinder loose so am happy it will be OK. The saw was in fact an early 064 so a big bill wont work well. The spur sprocket was worn as a worn out thing so have a Hyway drum and rim on its way, new clutch springs will be fitted, the carb has been stripped and cleaned and just waiting for the parts to finish. The air filter was also missing - reckon it never had one from when my customer purchased it! A possible machine write off has come down to a sub £200 repair bill and a machine that will make its owner some money back - ebay saws can be a big gamble! Oh - the saw passed pressure and vac tests and the carb was set correctly so the damage would have been down to the chipped port and the damaged ring.

The part numbers are pretty similar 044 Tank 1128 350 0832 Handle 1128 790 1750 046 1128 350 0833 1128 790 1753 Checked on the suppliers site and the parts are different but don't know in what area - reckon it is worth a punt though especially if using aftermarket.

From some ebay listings, they are quoting the same part for all 044/046/MS460 models and I believe they all match but don't have my parts lists with me!

Is it PPE or PPI, think we have too many acronyms in this world we live in:lol:

Thanks for letting us know, go careful when you fit the new one, rev the saw than slap on the chain brake a few times to tighten it and don't rev it up and then release the throttle without having done this as the clutches can spin undone enough for them to then do up and not in mesh with the oiler gear worm drive pinion. If this happens, the chain will start spinning all the time!

Take the bar off, put the chain over the nose sprocket and pull it round slowly, is it smooth without riding up and off it. Do the same with the clutch sprocket, can you pull the chain round the sprocket without it riding up and off the gear. Hang the old and new chain off your finger, line up the cutters and make sure they line up over a length of 4-5 cutters - if not, you have the wrong pitch chain. It can't be that hard to sort this one:confused1:

Check the splines in the oil pinion that the clutch drum slots in to, chances are they have been crushed and it isn't meshing properly! Been here before and speak with experience!

If the clutch drum has been off, these saws can sometimes spin their clutches off a little on deacceleration and then not mesh with the oiler worm drive when the throttle is applied!

I have seen 0.325 used on a 3.8 sprocket - bit of a mess:001_rolleyes: Check gauge and pitch!

It is possible the choke isn't shutting off completely when you engage it - worth checking. Other than that, take the exhaust off and make sure the piston looks OK through the exhaust port and if that is OK, strip, clean and check the carb.

Yup, seal up dem holes Ahhhhhh Yeah as we say dawn sarf:sneaky2::lol: I just put a small circular disk of gasket material down the hole and then reassembled, worked a treat but is a good device to stop the saw seizing in it's normal tune. Don't take it as the issue the OP has though, it may be tht the H screw is just a little too far out - should be set at one turn out!

Yes, there is a mechanical device in the carb that stops the saw leaning out too far. I sealed mine up when I ported it so I coud achieve the best revs for the work I had done on the saw. It is under the big brass screw on the side of the carb.