spudulike

OK, you have compression, that is good, the other guys are correct on the tank breather, that can make a saw run for a short period and then get a bit boggy and not liking to rev out. The loosen the fuel cap check should tell you one way or the other - you could pop the breather off and see it that makes a difference. I did have a MS460 in once with the exact same issues, I found the coil was a little too far from the flywheel and as soon as it warmed a little, the spark would fail so worth a check - just put a business card alongside the coil and rotate the flywheel magnet raised part of the flywheel round (piston will be near top dead centre) and loosen the coil so it is drawn toward the magnets and do up the coil again. Spin the flywheel and make sure it doesn't touch the coil.

Well that isn't too clever - you should use rope down the plug hole on these small spark plug machines or the small piston stop tool from Stihl. As you have found, the thread is left handed on the clutch and an impact driver IS NOT needed! The flywheel........ it is possible to put the flywheel back in to place with a slight smear of grinding paste and then really locking it in place. You will need a fair bit of care in doing this so you achieve the correct ignition advance, comparing to another machine and checking with a degree wheel will tell you if the job is spot on or not. If you get the incorrect flywheel position, it can destroy the engine through pre-ignition. Anything more than an extra 5 degrees will be approaching the danger zone!

I have a set of long nose pliers and some forceps - sometimes doing these fuel lines is like being a Gynaecologist when you dive in to the fuel tank to pull the thing through:001_tongue: I usually find cutting the end on the straight fuel lines at an acute angle so the end is a thin point of rubber gets enough through to pull the end out! Don't use this method on moulded ones!

As Bill says, most saws have the H and L screws set to 1 turn out, not sure what your "S" screw is or if your saws carb has limiters on it. You could fire it up, get the screwdriver in the H screw, undo it around 1 turn and then rev it flat out and turn the screw in until the saw sounds a little thumpy but revs to what is normal without screaming.....if that makes sense! Set the L screw to 1 turn and adjust the idle to suit and see how it picks up/idles

It sounds like the old fuel caused the saw to overheat and was in the edge of seizure. It does look like the piston is OK though so it may be OK. Get some fresh fuel in it and run it up and see what gives. Is there any scoring on that piston? It looks clean in the pic! The sparks will have been caused by excessive heta burning up the carbon in the saw.

The man has to be fixing SOMETHING, can't have him missing out on all the fun!

Hi Rich, good to see you around, hows tricks?

If it is really thumping at WOT then you should be fine. I have seen this two sided colour on a plug before, it is just th way the scavenging colours the plug. It should rev up to about 13krpm max!

The vid is a bit....strange, it is a different chainsaw and typical of the 395 copies plus the guy does a bit of Tai Chi at the end with a running saw - it is a bit Ninja. Must try those moves myself....get the neighbours worried that I have reeeaaalllyyyyy lost it:lol:

You need to ascertain what is missing, fuel, compression or spark. You say the carb is OK - most common issues here will be fuel pipe, blocked internal gauze filter or split impulse line. Compression either test or take off the muffler and look for those tell tail vertical scores on the piston. Spark - change the plug and check the flywheel magnets to coil gap = a business card will be the correct gap. Report back with how it goes - if you get stuck, you know where I am:thumbup:

Yeah, sorry Jon, just pulling your plonker! Hardwood in the Somerset area it is:thumbup: Hope you find some and quick!

Mmmm, so far we have HARD WOOD and MEMBERS, all we need is a male chicken and we will have a full set:001_rolleyes: Think you should try to use "Hardwood" instead of your spelling to avoid confusion as to what you want:thumbup: Is it just me??????

I think he is a barrister on the Cote d'Ivoire

Jon, I think you may want to re-name the title of your post as it is a little.......suggestive and may mislead some of our US members as to what you actually require! Do you do it on purpose to give us all a laugh:sneaky2:

The top handle is covering the yellow part in the original pic, look at this.....

With my logical hat on, I would say it is probably real as who would copy a chainsaw that they would only sell a few of. If I were copying a chainsaw, I would copy the 50-70cc ones from Stihl and Husqvarna as it is those that they would sell the most of. This will also be the reason that the 3120 and MS880 cylinder and pistons have so few aftermarket copies and why all those midrange saws have so many non OEM parts available! The picture does make the saw look a bit aftermarket but may just be the hue on the photo/camera.

It is possible it is the band but you aren't talking about a saw with loads of power so it should have lasted a fair while. The spring is the big one under the plastic brake mechanism cover - very rare for those to go!

Just take it easy when you put the manifold on. I have seen many with the piece that pushes in to the impulse hole on the cylinder, misplaced and distorted. The other fun you will have is putting on the clamp - I usually use plumbers grips. It has to be done with the cylinder off! I reckon that cylinder would have cleaned up!

Oh dear, what is Clarkson up to now - where did the info come from??

Check the clutch drum sprocket isn't worn, if there are grooves worn in the ends of the sprocket, fit a new one and make sure it is the correct pitch, probably 3/8" on this saw. If it has a rim drive on it rather than a spur (gear type) sprocket, make sure the rim outer surface is not heavily worn! This will stop the new chain getting stretched or damaged:thumbup:

I feel all rejected now:sneaky2: I know, junk it and fi a new one.....too easy for me:lol:

You are on fire tonight, ever fancied being a stand up comedian:lol:

:001_rolleyes:Very funny:001_tt2: Finding that red stuff that Zama use on their carb welch plugs appears to be the holy grail. I have used most stuff and the best has been cyanoacrelate (superglue) but am now trying shellac and also Loctite 638 as an experiment. Even made my own stainless punch to put them in on C1Q carbs!

Hows about you Barrie, man hug:001_tongue:

Best keep the vinegar for your chips. I use Brick acid as it is around 15% HCL/Hydrochloric/Muriatic acid and works well. Sodium Hydroxide/Caustic soda will work but not used that to date. Clean the area with solvent, rub lightly with some emery paper, apply with a cotton bud and leave ten minutes or until it stops fizzing as it will do once the aluminium has turned to salt (not table salt:001_rolleyes:) Clean the area again with solvent, rub with the emery paper and apply the acid again. If it fizzes repeat until all the transfer has gone and no fizzing happens. Any residue should be abraded away and the bore should have no deposits/transfer left. I usually hone lightly or you can hone with emery paper - around 150 grit - it breaks the glaze and helps bed the ring in quicker! If the acid fizzes along a vertical track in a straight line, you have a bad score straight through the plating, avoid using acid here as it will eat in to the underside of the plating. I personally re-bevel the exhaust port as you often get a build up of carbon and transfer around it. I have been doing this for quite a while and with much success - lots of happy people out there with saws others have scrapped:thumbup: