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brisbane trees

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About brisbane trees

  • Birthday May 4

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Occupation
    arborist
  • City
    Brisbane, Australia

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  1. Thanks, those resources were really helpful.
  2. Hi I already have an equipment and safety sheet to fill in but I'm looking for more of a work plan form to fill in before starting work. I don't know exactly what it is called, but does anyone have one they would share for me to customise, please? Is there a generic one I can download somewhere? I'm in Australia so your customers won't see one the same
  3. Best looking bar I've ever seen. More seriously though, how much do they weigh? It's the "lo-pro" 14 inch bar for the Husqvarna T540XP I was looking at. It's promoted for its low weight but it's not specified anywhere.I'm always looking at how to save some weight from what I have to carry up trees. I'll be comparing it with the Husqvarna chainsaw bar which weighs 540 grams, by the way. Also, are the lighter bars weaker? Are there any guarantees with these, by any chance?
  4. Here's another one, alas I don't know if it would be legal outside of the wild west:
  5. So, the best story I've heard in the tree business was when I was fairly new to the tree industry about ten years ago. I was at my local chainsaw shop when the old bloke there told me about a job he'd done as a young bloke. Years before, he been contracted to remove a large Eucalyptus from a vacant block of land overlooking the Brisbane River. After walking around it a few times they decided they could safely fell it. A bit more discussion and he scarfed it and did the backcut just right. Unfortunately, they weren't using ropes and a big gust of wind came along and sat it back on the cut behind. It fell the wrong way, so they thought. It landed on the edge of the cliff and, after teetering for a full minute, the weight of the foliage overbalanced it and it slid into the river. They watched as the current took it into the middle of the water and it sank, never to be seen again. He reckons they blew the tree's leaves into the river after it and were down the pub ten minutes later. It was their best earn of the week, all done by eight o'clock. True story, so he says....
  6. ^ me too. It's been the go-to line placement tool for a long time in our industry (as time goes for us, what with constant climbing technology improvements...). There's definitely an option for line placement now, and one that's going to be even more fun that a giant sling shot: the APTA: Air Powered Tree Access. It's an air gun. You stuff the throw bag in one end and pump it up, either with a hand pump or I think you can use a compressor, maybe? Anyway, it's from those loud folks over in the USA. I saw it on Treestuff and they do ship to the UK, and most other nice countries. Disclaimer: I haven't actually seen or used one, but I reckon they'll take off before long, knowing how arborists like new, shiny things, especially ones that fire stuff out of a cannon and over trees.
  7. good stuff, mate. I saw a guy on Youtube splice a rope in like seven minutes and thought why pay $50 for that? Are you satisfied your first effort is safe to use for climbing trees Tom, or is the first one just for practice? Also, since I'm planning to do some splicing myself soon, what resources would you recommend to learn rope work? So far I'm planning to use ebay to buy a set of fids from the UK (I'm in Brisbane, Australia) and Youtube for the tutorials. Does that sound right?
  8. I'm in Australia so my busiest time of year is summer because we get higher rainfall which, combined with higher temperatures, makes the trees grow fast. I don't know how you poor pommies go waiting forever for your trees to grow. We can get a couple of metres growth in some trees in a year.
  9. I made my own cambium saver out of electrical conduit yesterday: poor man's friction saver. It's been done before, of course. I got the idea from a post on another forum. I'll put the rope saver on my wishlist, to be crossed out either when I get one or when I go SRT exclusively.
  10. Five years? I can't see anyone using a climbing rope for five years, nevermind not nicking it with a chainsaw in that time. By then it would be frayed, shaggy and filthy. Maybe some tree climbers keep their ropes better than I do? That's besides me wanting a later model rope, and they have been getting better over the years. Personally, I don't think I'd ever use a rope for more than two years without demoting it.
  11. If a job could take one day or could take three days, I'd rather quote as though it will take three days rather than giving a day rate. If I get the job I'm happy whichever way it goes, and I might do very well from it. Tree work requires great marketing, just like any business. Doing so means there will be enough customers to not take chances on quoting low.
  12. Second like from me. Lime tree? I thought lime trees were citrus. I guess it's the problem of using common names, again. I wonder if we should stick to botanical names on an arboricultural forum, being arborists, and all.
  13. Has anyone used the 12V winches from ebay? They're plentiful, cheap and rated to pull very high loads for their size. Legit? Also, do you put the winch on your truck or your wood chipper, please? I don't have any winch at all at the moment and I'm considering my options.
  14. Bacillus thuringiensis is not a chemical; it's a biological control agent. I'm using it on poincianas in Brisbane. You might like to have a look at my write-up at that link. It's a bit casual, but it's for property owners here. You'll notice I use tree bands with horticultural glue. Is that what you mean by 'collar' traps? I'm surprised you are injecting the Bt. As far as I knew, Bt isn't systemic and needs to be sprayed on the foliage not long before it's consumed. The problem (so I thought) with using Bt systemically is that it is then concentrated in the sap, so caterpillars don't injest enough for infection to occur. I'm ready to be corrected, though. Edit: ...because caterpillars eat foliage rather than being sap-suckers, I mean.
  15. Yes, colour is very important. All risk assessments should contain red, green and a bit of blue. The red indicates the danger you want to avoid, green shows you are a tree expert and blue, well, blue just goes really nice against the black ink. Checkboxes are also known to be vital to risk assessment because they provide such nice alternatives to just reading all those hard paragraphs with big tree words. It also helps to draw a sun in the left hand top corner of every page, and don't forget to draw a smiley face on it.

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Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
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