spudulike

The crankcases on the 084 and 088 do not match, the 088 muffler is held on by use of two horse shoe type clamps and a spring, the 084 is held on with bolts in to the cylinder and then on to the crankcase similar to the 660/460/260 etc. If it were mine and a cheap Chinese kit may work, I would purchase the kit and see what gives. The later muffler will not fit the earlier kit but at a guess, may be able to be drilled and bolted through but without the kit in front of me it is dificult to tell. You could purchase an earler muffler if all else fails or fit a big expansion chamber and get in to racing saws:sneaky2:

Blimey Wes - you parting with your baby? Thought you would be taking it down the aisle with you and becoming a couple:lol: I am sure you will find a buyer soon, nice trick porting on it!

No, you just need a full carb kit - would recommend Rowena Motors for that being the UK dealership for all the main carb manufacturers on garden equipment plus you will find them a lot cheaper than Stihl who re-brand the Zama/Walbro kits. It is the needle valve within the carb that can leak fuel through and does so on older machines. It is found under the metering arm!

Same saw, put it up on my thread if you like or Arbtrader.

Relatively easy job, you will need a 5mm X 0.8mm thread helicoil kit, you will also need a tap wrench to hold the tap. Go careful when you drill the hole out as you dont want to pull the drill straight in to the oil tank! The finished job should be stronger than the original if done correctly!

Thats an easy one, I would mosey in the the workshop, put on absolute 80s, dust the tools off and bingo - job done an hour later:thumbup: It usually a case of taking the top handle off, releasing all the AV mounts, disconnecting the fuel lines and breather/ throttle linkage and then removing the old handle and repeating in the opposite sequence!

TBH, it isn't a bad job, just take note of how it comes apart and then it should be relatively easy to put it back together again....in theoy. Use your phone to take pics of any assemblies before stripping. Avoid alcohol before doing the job...........don't ask:001_rolleyes:

See - old saw, fixed advance, hurting hand......pull hard......simple:thumbup:

Interesting work, did the expansion pipe make much difference and was the pipe tuned to the engine or just a "suck it and see" job!

Yup, lift high and drop hard:thumbup:

No need to take it personally, it is all pretty simple if you think about it, I have just covered the subject sooooooo many times now it is becoming repetative but hey ho thats life! Engines need ignition advance as the petrol vapour takes a little while to burn so the spark needs to happen BEFORE the piston gets to the top of its stroke. Old saws have fixed ignition advance so are a compromise between being able to start them, make decent power and not die of high revs through pre-ignition. Modern saws got clever with trick coils that spark with near zero advance when starting and then 30 degrees at idle, 20 degrees at mid revs and fall off to 10 degrees at maximum speed - completely different than four-strokes. I have hours of fun in the workshop.....can you tell:001_rolleyes:

Yup, I taught him well - you are on the naughty step and he is top of the class....sorry - you have a long path to travel to gain the answers to your question despite my lessons:lol:

I keep telling you, what is it aboout ignition advance and the effect of starting a machine with no retardation on the coil at start up is it that no one seems to understand:001_rolleyes: The 064 has a FIXED ignition advance at around 25deg, if you pull the handle in a girly way, the engine will fire at 25 deg before the piston is at TDC and it will rip the starter from your little girly hands. You need to be manly and grasp the starter and yank the thing with conviction. The MS660 has a coil that retards the ignition for an easy start and then advances it as needed for power and then retards for protection against pre-ignition at higher revs. Got it:001_rolleyes:

I was describing the effect of the recoil starter pulling back on start up, using more welly on starting it is the answer if the machine is set up as it should be .

I am thinking the saw is a MS660 from that exhaust port? If the saw turns freely with the plug out but is hard to turn with it in then it is probably just compression. It is worth pulling the spark plug out and turning the machine upside down as the needle valve may have been leaking and filling the crankcase with fuel! What is it like using the decomp valve? A common one on the 660 is using a too long bolt on the front top cover mounting hole on the recoil side and it comes trough and locks on the flywheel but this would happen with or without the plug in! The kick on older saws such as the 064 is down to the single point of ignition advance of around 25 deg, if the saw fires and the handle hasnt been pulled over with gusto, the piston will fly down backwards and cause this painful phenomenon. Later saws have almost zero ignition advance on start up rapidly increasing to 30 degrees at idle and changes with revs - see my porting thread for further info on this. It is worth checking the flywheel to coil gap - should be a typical business card in distance.

TBH, I have had the biggest issues with old 020 carbs and tuning them can be really hit and miss. New, they are OK but old ones seem to take a lot of tuning and fiddling with. I have had to admit defeat on one recently:thumbdown: I find MS200T carbs refurb up OK if you know what you are doing and I like the little bit of extra kick that the accelerator pump gives you:thumbup:

Just because a saw revs to a certain level, bears little in regards to the way the saw pulls in the cut. I have had some saws with issues hit 15,500 at WOT but as soon as you hit the wood - zero power! Cutting holes in a saws exhaust revving at full speed sounds a little risky, even in my books:001_rolleyes:

This was the sort of timing curve I was talking about in respect to my 066, it is completely different from a four stroke where the advance increases with revs. In this case, the advance backs off dramatically with revs to protect the engine from overheating and pre-detonation. Older saws had one set advance, this type of curve is found on CDI units, on chainsaws, it would have around 5-6 set points where the advance will change but the concept is the same.

Got to say I do prefer the 346XP as the MS260 just isn't so whizzy. I have found high hours machines can slap a bit on idle due to piston skirt wear! The rest of the saw seems pretty strong bar the earlier model carbs as mentioned before!

Carbs but more on the 026s.....Grrrrrrrrr

Well that's an interesting one, from the splined part of the dowel, the depth of land looks good, possible to fit a dowel with a threaded oversize base. If that doesn't work, putting a bush or threaded insert in is another option. Last idea is to create a longer dowel, braze it t a backplate and then push it through from the back and epoxy it from the back and pin/screw it in place. Would need to look at it and go from there...it looks like it takes some load so needs strength!

You can clean the bottom of the tank with solvent, thoroughly degrease it and then pour fibre-glass resin in it to it to cover the surface - done that once to a cracked Jonsered 525 I had once, if that is done and the other side is coated in say JB weld - or get some 16th gauge aluminium, fabricate a plate and epoxy it in place!

Never seen a loo in a shower cubicle before, that is a little weird - does it have good ventilation for if you have been on chilli or is it a time saver - have a crap and shower at the same time:thumbup: I think those office workers would be shocked.....I sort of pity them!