spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Do you ever think "shame I'm gonna burn that"
spudulike replied to mickdundee's topic in General chat
Yup, looks like the patina on Jimmy Page's Les Paul to me....Maple......weird:confused1: -
Try Mike Acres site Geoff, he has a supurb site listing many old vintage saws - just google it and go on the Chainsaw bit:thumbup:
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Just like my dear Papa:lol:
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Do you ever think "shame I'm gonna burn that"
spudulike replied to mickdundee's topic in General chat
That dark bit looks like walnut to me but what do I know:lol: -
The Quickstop is Stihls description of the chain brake system.
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And that is the way most techies hate receiving saws, especially when everything is thrown in to one bag with no logical way of identifying which bolts go where. Fortunately, I can now rebuild MS200s that are supplied like this just from the familiarity of doing so many of them and have done a few like that:thumbup: It is a sense of achievement doing the work and having a well running saw but you can also rebuild a saw, miss an air leak because you can't pressure/vac test, miss over revving down to not taching the saw and pop, you write off all your hard work. I learnt at an early stage to start from a solid foundation when dealing with faulty saws and pressure,vac test all that come in seized or have signs that the saw may have a leak!
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Thanks Alan, always happy to help!
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You lot are just pissed that engineers are the manliest workers out there - I have always thought we were:thumbup:
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The problem with this sort of work is having the experience of what to look for and finding what needs replacing. I have done many MS200s and with that experience comes a sound grounding in what fails and what needs doing. The typical mechanical bits are relatively easy but it is things like the carb refurb and the pressure/vac tests that generally are not so easy. IMO - if you can earn more in the time that it would take to do the rebuild doing tree work than the cost of getting someone else to do it then there is your answer!
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Lucky you caught it, a saw not adjusting on idle is a classic sign of a big air leak!
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Yes, the flywheel will have an additional magnetic ring mounted on its inside and this will generate the power to heat the coils in the top and rear handle.
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I have found in life that the people who want to know how to do a task make better students that ones who are made to learn to do a task.....just saying:001_rolleyes:
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Yup, lots of stored inertia in clock mainsprings! I always thought that over winding clocks was a myth and all you do is wind them until the mainspring is fully compressed - I guess something got snagged up! Did it survive? I have a few around the house, the latest is a Comtoise French Wall mount that I have converted in to a Skeleton clock - keeps damn near perfect time:thumbup:
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I am beginning to get mildly excited about topping 400,000 views on this thread since Sept 2011 - been a little successful hasn't it:lol:
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In Dulce Decorum by the Damned, all about going over the top in WW1 [ame] [/ame] Wires - Athlete [ame] [/ame] Brothers in Arms - Dire Straits [ame] [/ame] Linkin Park - What I've done - [ame] [/ame]
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After you have fitted the bearings and put the crankcases together, the crank may be stiff to turn, give it a few taps on both ends and it should free up nicely. Also check the bearings can go in either way as some only go in one way round!
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I got unlucky with an MS660 once, nothing would shift the bearing and eventually used loads of heat and a puller but it shagged the bearing! Know what you mean by Huskys, very tight!
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On the case without the crank sticking out of it -put a suitable socket on the outer side of the bearing and use a bench vice to push on it to ease it out - PROTECT THE GASKET EDGE and don't assume the casting is mega strong! The crank can be pushed out with a large 10" or more G clamp and a U shaped fabricated attachement so the clamp pushes on the crank end so it can slide out. You may be able to use a bench vice for this part rather than the G clamp - it works on smaller saws. Once the crank is out, use the same method to remove the other bearing. The new bearings can be put in in the same manner but make sure the surfaces are clean. If the bearings are OK, I would leave them as is and save the money:thumbup:
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Just finished the ignition timing on my old 066 - it REALLY kicks on starting and has no decomp valve. It is imposable to start on the deck and has to be violently dropped to fire.....not helped by the big pop up piston and very high compression:blushing: Will be testing it soon:thumbup: Been porting another MS660, a neat muffler mod with modified outlet so it takes the heat away from the chain brake handle and also makes it breath a bit. Inlet and exhaust ports reshaped and widened in line with the piston, no squish mod on this one as the original settings will not allow it without machining. Lowers flowed and lowered, uppers shaped for lower blowdown and more scavaging - don't go mad on this as the ring ends are a little close to the uppers - be warned:001_rolleyes: Pics below
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You need to make sure there are no limiter caps on the carb - little red and black plastic caps. Turn the H & L screws all the way in but just until they are LIGHTLY seated and then un do to 1 turn out but would do the H screw to 1& 1/4 turns out for safety. Fire the saw up and then adjust the idle. Rev it up a bit and see if the idle settles down to and even idle speed quickly. If it hangs on to the revs then it may have an air leak. When you rev it flat out, it shouldn't scream, if it does, again, you may have an airleak - this is why I always pressure/vac test rebuilt saws - I have saved many saws from damage by finding leaks in good time! The spark plug will give a good indication of good running - look for a light tan colour on the central electrode. If you can't get the idle to lower even with the idle screw right out, you have a BIG air leak:thumbdown: Don't mask it by over richening the L screw - this is a BODGE!
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Damn, I have been busted:sneaky2: Being serious, jobs like this are a PITA as nothing is standard, they can be anything from very simple to extremely time consuming when every part has to be modified to fit. This saw just needs an inventive owner or at least someone who can see through problems!
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Has to be a Goose or Swan egg, one thing is certain though, you will be enjoying the mother of all omelettes for lunch today:thumbup: I had a Goose egg omelette once - blooming luvverly:thumbup:
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Wheres me square pants:confused1::lol:
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Bet that is messing with your playboy lifestyle, I thought I saw you in the pits at the Australian F1 GP with a hottie on your arm but may have been mistaken:sneaky2::lol:
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I have to say I am very pleased it is still going, I would hate to have it back yet again:lol: All good news:thumbup:
