spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Of course, Barrie is correct in what he says. Blanking off the pump does cause this flat spot issue that needs a bit of careful tuning out to mask it, after all, Stihl didn't fit an accelerator pump for no reason and the pump is there to give the saw a bit of grunt from low revs! I have done this mod, there are potential risks in doing it but if done well, it does make a bad running saw in to a good one again IF the pump is the route cause of the fault! I stopped doing this mod and now simply replace the accelerator pump giving the saw a return to how it should be. If I ever had the repair fail then the blanking off of the welch plug would be the next option as it will get the saw useable again even with slightly less ZIP off the line.
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TT20K - it has PP3 batteries, easy to change and is wireless although it comes with a lead if necessary but have never needed to use it on all saws I have tached. The UK guy will actually send you the bit of kit and then invoice you, very trusting! Tiny-Tach: Contact us ITCO The price was something like £75, expensive but for a tool, but I use it on pretty much every saw I service and is a good investment in my opinion. The refresh is good, it will read to 20Krpm, it is wireless and can hold maximum revs and has a few other features. It is my choice as it is what I use, others may be just as good!
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https://tinytach.com/handheld.php Very good products - had mine for around 4 years and been great!
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Sounds like it is either running too rich and not burning the fuel or the needle valve is leaking/metering arm too high causing too much fuel being delivered to the saw. Strip the carb, check it out, pressure check it and try again.
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I did warn you, most paints don't resist petrol and cleaning solvents too well.
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I usually find the smaller harder revving saws are more difficult to save. The 346 tends to take the top end out and score but slower saws ....MS660 etc are usually fine.
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Diesel only burns under much higher compression. My experience is that the Aspen will burn along with the combustible elements of the diesel leaving something resembling paraffin to exit the muffler.
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Trained Obese Woodworm with 1.5" depth restraining:lol:
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Been using Kodi for about a year on a Sumvision Cyclone X4 TV box. It is pretty good for films as that is my main interest. I personally find Istream and Phoenix are among the best free film streamers. Not really done much on streaming TV
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When stuffers break up.....it is bad!!! Close to dead!
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Time for a muffler mod and part of that can be extricating the rattling part:thumbup:
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About time Barrie, you been pissin about with that boat of yours in this hot weather:001_rolleyes::lol: Nice photos - thought you may like to air them again:001_tt2:
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Unlikely the baffle has come loose but more likely the support on the outlet tube. I would take it off and see if you can work it out. It is unlikely to work its way in to the exhaust port from the design of the muffler but anything is possible.
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Get a light and magnifier on it and I reckon you will se a concave recess on the gear where the pinion has worn it! You will have to strip it and fit a new part.....or flog it on ebay:001_rolleyes:
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Quite often, this is just a plug to stop dirt getting in to the adjustment and can be removed with a small wood screw. Worth getting a second opinion from GK and see if he has done one of these before.
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In fact - give us a picture of the bar with the part code etc, and the chain with a 12" Rule against it, the saw will be 3/8th LP (low profile).
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Sounds like you may have been given the wrong chain or bar for your saw. You need to match the sprocket, with the bar and chain. The gauge will be 1.3mm, the pitch is probably 3/8". It is possible someone has given you a 0.325" chain which would destroy the drive links!
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If there is an adjustment, it will be a small brass screw recessed in the middle of that brass part on the metal plate plastic part the yellow throttle part pushes on .....top pics on your post. It basically lifts and lowers the needle valve - the higher it is, the richer the mix, the lower....leans it off! Did just this on a Husqvarna carb today......Gardenkit has done many more of these carbs than me so am sure he will pass comment on the exact carb type - Walbro is good, no Chinese copy:thumbup:
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These Ryobis use a nylon oil pump gear that wears until it stops, it is usually mounted on the engine and is only accessible by taking the whole engine out. It is a right old PITA TBH, did one once and flogged it on ebay for £50....what a life:001_rolleyes: Good luck with it!
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Possible laser etching!
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The correct sprocket is - 1114 640 2001 (3/8), your 1/4" will be part 1114 640 2000 The part is listed on L&S - Chain Sprocket 3/8'' Picco 6T for Stihl 020 - 1114 640 2001 | Stihl MS200/MS200T/020/020T Chainsaw Spares I think the image is incorrect though!
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If the Ryobi works and starts fine, even when very hot then it looks like your tester reads low and is more suited to cars. So, if you have spark and compression then it looks like you have some sort of fuel issue or possible reed valve issues. I guess all you can do is to take it as far as you can on the carb and then take it to a repair shop if stuck. If you want to chuck it my way, I will give it a look over but old saws can be a money pit. On the carb, you will need to make sure the gauze strainer is free of chip, make sure the needle valve holds 10-15psi pressure and the gaskets are fitted in the correct order. The reeds should be free of cracks and should seal and not be bent leaving a gap!
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Yes, the B&C also fit the 020AVT but the sprocket is different!
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Most likely but the cylinder may have worn through its plating but this is much less likely It would be worth testing another working saw with your gauge as some are made for car engines and will read low due to their construction. If you take the cylinder off, the big end will lose all its rollers if you don't hold the con rod centrally.
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