spudulike

Stihl use a fibre glass bearing, nothing wrong with that but 261s eat them and this kills the drum and usually the oil drive! The metal bearings are usually aftermarket!

Not a problem, always glad to help the forum:thumbup:

Aromatic hydrocarbons......That's No 22 at the local Chinese Restaurant:001_tongue:

I have worked on a fake, it is very weird, everything is so much like a real one but it just isn't quite right......bit like walking up a similar high street in a similar town, sort of looks familiar but doesn't feel quite right. The rubbers are too squidgy, the recoil spring is mega springy and thick, the impulse has a little clamp where it connects to the top of the crankcase, the plastic had sharper edges, the paint comes off with carb cleaner and the lack of "EM made in Sweden" on all parts! I wasn't impressed with the fitting around the seals and main bearings! My opinion - it ran OK but would die in a week or so in forestry or hard arb use!

Husqvarna LS (Low Smoke) Semi Synthetic makes sense as it will ensure the warranty is fulfilled and will meet manufactures instructions. Steer clear of DIY oils and mineral oils! With your remit of use, Aspen makes sense but it is your choice!

Probably just run it from new on Aspen as it will keep it sweet. The reason is that sporadic use means you will either need to drain the saw down after use or just use Aspen that can be left in the saw and will not degrade rubbers and carb components. The risk of using other fuels is that they will be left for long periods in the saw and may well cause seizure or other issues if you use old fuel and not fresh mix each time. If you decide to use normal pump fuel then use a semi or full synthetic quality oil in the fuel and avoid other cheaper alternatives.

Ah noooooo, it is like that film Cocoon where you wake up different and indoctrinated towards Aspen:lol: It does clean the soots out though...agreed:thumbup:

One of those drop your trousers so we can hear you moments:001_rolleyes:

The oil has sealed up the piston superbly and has now caused the compression to go up to OMG levels. Blast a good bit of WD40 down the bore through the spark plug hole, pull it over fast a few times, turn it upside down, pull it over a few times and fast so all the oil and WD40 come out. Dry the plug out, heat it and stick it back in and drop start it with conviction. It should go and start - do it quick before the water does any damage!

Reckon a 660 engines and big expansion pipe is the way to go:thumbup:

Interesting one, you do get some natural blowback on a carb when you grab the throttle and the majority of this is generally sucked straight back in once the machine is on full chat! I did have it on an 024 once that needed to be tuned pretty lean to stop it saturating the air filter. In my world, coils are a rare failure compared to other issues so, what are the other two more common ones - fuel and compression! Make sure the compression is good, try pulling the muffler and looking at the piston. If you have good compression then check the carb. If it is plain not running then the dealer may have either got the pump diaphragm and gasket the wrong way round - had this once and it is a great way to keep fit and improve upper body strength:001_rolleyes: Other than that - check metering arm height, make sure the spacer gasket is between the metering diaphragm and the carb main body and also check the fuel line isn't split using a pump and the filter isn't blocked - had one of those on an FS400, found after the tenth carb strip.....only letting through 1/4 of what it should otherwise I would have got there earlier! The white emulsion may just be a bit misleading, if the above doesn't do it then I would be pulling the H&L screw, trying carb cleaner, trying the US cleaner and if that failed then I would be inspecting the high speed check valve and low speed injectors........or try another carb! Rule of thumb - if it revs hard and doesn't idle - check the low speed fuel circuit, if it idles and won't rev, check the high speed circuit and fuel delivery!

Nope but the whiff of Nitro is an acquired taste:thumbup:

Interesting that the 254XP is the best, it seemed pretty wild after it was done, sort of Lada to Lamborghini in 8 hrs:thumbup:

029s are clam engines and are therefore not the easiest machine to do too much with. Probably a muffler mod would be the simplest way forward on one of these saws unless it is coming apart for another reason.

Of course Matt, when you send the next one down:thumbup: Just don't complain about the compression:001_rolleyes:

You're special Joe.....think they have institutions for special ones like you:001_tt2:

We could tell you but we need the funny handshake first:sneaky2:

Poor darlin:001_rolleyes: Group ported hug:thumbup:

Not one of mine but pipes can add a considerable amount of go to a saw. I do have an expansion pipe and an old ported 066 and one day...........

I believe it is possible with a P&C change but isn't my area of expertise. My rule of thumb is owners of old saws should be able to maintain them just because they can be a drain on time to maintain and part finding.

Interesting post on my porting thread, but............ The seals are more than likely these - 9640 003 1980 2 WDR DIN3760-BS18x30x7 Oil seal 18x30x7 The rings possibly - 1106 036 9000 2 Anlaufring Check ring Difficult to tell but probably best to see where the parts are the right diameters to the crank and fit in place on the parts list!

You can't rebore the cylinder but you can often clean off the transferred aluminium and then lightly hone the bore so it will accept a new piston. I have done hundreds of machines with around 95% success with the rest just being too scored or damaged rather than failing after repair!

The trouble is, since the 70s, oil technology and strokers have moved on a fair bit. I am not disputing the original data and it is a pity two strokes are rarely raced now otherwise there would be more accurate info on this.

Bloke in my village has a Einhell hedge trimmer and it has been back twice and cost him £60 so far not including the cost of the machine. At some stage, he will have spent Tanaka, Echo, Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita sums of money and still have unreliable Chinese trimmers.

I think Einhell are worth a look at!