spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Never seen one of these fuel tank screws break, more common on the recoil cover. Sounds like all is good now, simple fix.
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Unless the OP is dragging his Einhell up Ben nevis, I think altitude in the UK doesn't come in to this issue! Thought you had become a Trappist Monk!
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Ya bloody big member
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There is a small window of time when both the ring and cylinder are relatively rough. Run it hard for shorter periods of time to get the two friction surfaces bedded in quickly.
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Now he is calling us members - isn't a member another name for a blokes appendage.....i.e. cock
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You would need to remove the top handle and fuel tank. The biggest issue with removing them is keeping the drill central to the broken screw and not drifting off in to the softer alloy. It won't be great leaving it like it is but the saw will still function OK and be safe. The lack or screws may put stress on the remaining ones and these could break! You may be able to cut a slot in the screw with a Dremel cut off bit causing little damage to the alloy and use a screwdriver on them. Just depends on how flush with the flats the broken screw is.
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Masterity New one on me....I wouldn't expect this damage to create any running issues!
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er... it is in the name...a pump...pumps and a meter.....well it meters out fuel in the correct amount! In a saw, the fuel is typically held below the carb. Liquid doesn't run well upwards so the saw uses the positive and negative pressure of the crankcase to pump the fuel upwards in to the carb by use of a pumping diaphragm in the carb.
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The impulse line carries the positive and negative pressure in the crankcase in to the carb that moves a pump diaphragm (not the metering one) up and down to pump fuel in to the pump section of the carb and is then allowed in to the metering section once fuel is depleted in the metering section allowing the nipple on the metering diaphragm to push on the metering arm thus opening the needle valve allowing fresh fuel in to the metering section of the carb. How does that description grab ya? The OP still has a dodgy Chinese saw though!
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I know a trainer in this area - don't know if he could be of help?
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eh
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Klebfest
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It isn't because you may have an iPhone using the same account and it is Apple making sure both devices are yours?
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I think this thread was better dead and buried than resurrected like it is now!
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I have had quite a few gearboxes in bits and normally you find various bearings have failed. The HL135 bearings in the shaft clamp section go and the grease takes on a silvery hard compacted composition and the inner races get very loose. In the trimmer part, the con rod rollers fall out causing issues and you then get the main gear pinion shaft bearings failing - the rollers get caught in the gears and can make bearings fail or gears get damaged. The grease may be grey and hard or just not there as it has been forced out over time. My thinking is if you are re-greasing regularly, the new grease will tend to shift the old grease about so it doesn't go hard and old. I would think a yearly pre seasonal service would be a good idea, one where all old grease is purged and new introduced then follow the 25hr or once a week system (if the unit is used daily) to keep the parts in good shape.
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My ethos is that any grease is better than no grease. Most gearboxes get knocked out by not greasing - the manufacturers recommendation is every 25 hrs and that isn't a great deal of time. I personally use a big tin of Lithium based grease rather than spending out silly amounts of money on little tubes of ...........! Regular greasing is the answer and doesn't often get done and remember to do ALL the greasing points including the one on the shaft clamp!
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Seems That Makita UK/Dolmar Salesman are lying to us!
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
Unfortunately, it is the modern way, a very small percentage of people who actually know what they are doing and the rest blagging it and making out they are the dogs Bs -
I gather that the Spice Girls are reforming but alas, not with Posh.....they are like a bad case of Foot and Mouth in their reoccurrence
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More like farmers droop
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There were changes in bore size on both the MS260 and 346XP, I always put that down to both manufacturers trying to get dominance in this sector of chainsaw!
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Now you got me - I think it is the normal "D" one but it has been a while since I worked on one of these saws - I have around 10 different tuning carbs and I did manage to get it adjusted OK. I did find the carb was very strange to set up, had to lift the metering arm much higher than I would have normally expected otherwise it would just run through the fuel in the metering section and pull no more through....weird!
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Just go to the French dealers and ask the question! We are all in the EU for the time being and unless they have been instructed not to ship to the UK, they should do it. Other option of getting a French fella to purchase one and send it on is probably reasonable. I guess you could plan a long weekend in France, the Euro Tunnel is pretty good!
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Just scrapped a 2 year old very nice condition 261 for having a worn crank where the needle bearing detonated and took out the crank.....shocking build quality! The crank is 10mm so measure the crank with digital vernier calipers on the very end (should be 10mm) and then on each end of the part of the shaft where the needle bearing usually sits. 0.2mm is excessive and over this is scrap. If you visually inspect the crank shaft under light and magnifying glass, the surface should be very smooth and not look pitted and rough anywhere the bearing sits! Personally I am appalled that these machines have such a fundamental issue with no recall by the manufacturer as they need constant attention to ensure they don't damage the crank and oiler mechanism!
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I believe so although there may be the odd one or two who don't concur
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You can store your details on the Autotune ........looks like it has already been done against the previous owner.
