spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Glad it seems to have worked out OK. Thanks for letting us know.
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Cake.........what a life
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2014 when I ported it, not bad VFM in my book
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I believe that Zama use a UV cure on their latest carbs. I have tried many substances, none using king size Rizlas I hasten to add!!! Cyanoacrylate, nail varnish and the rest all get degraded by petrol. Seal All is about the only stuff that doesn't fall out. I use any sealant in very sparse quantities so it doesn't fall out and cause later issues. The carb manufacturers recommend not using sealant at all since the increased use of Ethanol......... A bit of a holy grail is this subject!
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Just strip it down and see where the oil is coming from!
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Shipping from Ireland costs a bit more but is possible - just drain, bag and pack it well!
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Mower blade attachment keeps failing
spudulike replied to Paul in the woods's topic in Maintenance help
Yup, as fitted on MS200T exhausts or not on the ones that fall off or come loose!!! Also used on the many press tools I used to set and run in a previous life! -
I made my own punch, needed a little fettling but it works for me. Most of the carbs that need a new plug are C1Qs so use the same punch. They are an absolute sod to get punched in and sealed 100%, I have seen all sorts of attempts including a bit of what looked like a coke can - best leave it in place especially with the red seal as it is the most reliable type of seal.
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Difficult to say as I usually test the saws for a few minutes rather than for a time where they get damn hot. I would check the spark plug is a good colour (tan) rather than white or graphite grey. It is possible you have an issue but without plugging it in to the AT interface, you won't be able to see the carb settings to see if they are correcting for an issue such as an air leak. These AT saws do a good job of correcting running issues to the point they pop! It may be a carb issue or fuel line/fuel filter or it may just be hot weather.....I can't say without looking at it.
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No, it is the one where the crew are told not to shoot at the aliens as they have acid blood and one of the bods says "what are we supposed to use, harsh language"! STEP AWAY FROM THAT WELCH PLUG!!!!!!! You don't have the tool for it
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Just read this again....check the low speed setting on the carb, if the saw loads up a bit under full throttle, when the throttle is snapped shut, it can give the saw more fuel than it can deal with so the idle plummets then picks up. Make sure the H speed is set to around 13Krpm and the low speed isn't set too rich......and make sure the air filter is fully cleaned!
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Not really, I haven't had much of an issue with these carbs - it is worth making sure the part of the rubber inlet manifold is inserted correctly in to the slots either side of the throttle valve. You may also like to check the coil to flywheel gap. The coil is a bit weird in that the bottom two parts of the coil sit the typical distance from the coil and the top part sits a few mm away from the flywheel - make sure this is correct as if incorrect, the coil will keep kicking in to different advance settings cocking up the idle - I have seen this before - the first part of the coil advance is very low advance and can cause backfiring on starting but does give easy starting characteristics and then it flips up to normal advance, probably 20-30 degrees. Get the gap wrong and it bounces between the two giving varying idle!
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Well I could have but thought I would be more subtle...
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Damn, that's done it, a technical question
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Nice....factory tools for pushing the cases back on to the crank, where did they come from? I would still whack the crank both ends after reassembly just to be sure!
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Hard stares....hard stares......bugger that, get lively with the harsh language and if that doesn't work, break out the hammer!
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Yup, looks like a light seize that has been cleaned up by continuing to use the saw. As above and I always just fit a new piston as once the saw is apart, the cost difference isn't massive and it will give you more life out of the saw as well as better performance.
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Would that be the first, second, third, fourth...........etc time we watched it........one of the best!
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Firing up any engine I have worked on always makes me think of this..........
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Thank the Lord
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OK, welch plug with red sealer....LEAVE IT ALONE, you will not be able to get a new one punched in and sealed well! The carb surfaces are fine, a light rub of grease or oil on the gasket surfaces can be used but not necessary. The needle and spring - just change them both. A slack or short spring can give a much lower pop off, trouble with flooding in hot weather and sluggish throttle response. A leaking needle valve will give flooding. The "valve jet", I am assuming you mean the check valve.....I would be careful in taking it out and refitting a new one. They sometimes fail and go open rather than sealing one way, there are ways of testing them but it is fairly unlikely that this has failed as a saw will run if it is faulty but it will be very rich and will not idle at all. I change, at a guess, 1 valve every 50 - MS200Ts I do (similar carb). I only change them after testing them.
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My advice is to tackle the easy ones to cross them off the list. It is easy to check the impulse line, less easy to check some of the other stuff but these are the things I would check. The Walbro carb thing is a real possibility but rarely happens overnight, it is more of a time related thing! Just work through them, if you do pull the manifold off, let me know before refitting as there is a right way and a way others do it!!
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A sharp craft knife? Mind your fingers if using a safety razor double edged blade.....perhaps a Derby, smooth and reasonably sharp
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Sorry, I meant "Purchaser" and not seller - now corrected!!!
