doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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I’ve known oak happily snap screws as it dries. I gave him the option of the board for £200 and he takes it the English woodlands for drying and his builder does the rest. customer always right and all that!
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It’s 550mmx3100mmx70mm Will be supplied to the customer as 8no rough cut oversized 250mmx750mm stair treads, ends sealed. He’s going to bolt them on the steelwork and bring them back once a bit drier after finishing the refurb to run through the thicknesser before final trimming and cutting. Total cost £300.
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New digger day…
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Finally got this big bastard roughed down with the 881 and then squared off on the mill. I was just planning to have a cant for posts, etc but there turned out to be some nice figuring. Found a use for the top already- an order for stair treads. £250 for a 60mm slice off the top. That pays for dragging the backhoe to site to get it loaded! need to get myself a front quick hitch for that backhoe, would make it so much more useful to me.
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Got as far as fitting one to a nice big backplate that drops over the blade. Never tested it. A couple of years later ended up with a PTO winch and compact tractor! What size machine are you looking for one for?
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Which kind of machines?
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Thats 40v vs 18v. Might as well 'compare' my 881 to your 362!
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How much though?
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Someone jump on this quick! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/277969465136453
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Rocking horse shite mate.
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I’m sure we’ve been here before. And you said ‘that’s why you’re a welder and I’m not!’ Anyway, it doesn’t matter which kind you buy, you just cut off the towbar you don’t need and weld your loader brackets on the right side, reinforcing if necessary with an extra backplate.
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Agree, but I've seen how golf course workers use a chainsaw!
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Great in theory but two problems. The first is what they cost to rent. The second is getting them on to site. It's hard enough getting a pickup and trailer onto most of the sites we do let alone something that size! If by some miracle you managed to get it sited at the entrenace you are tied to this one location and you're carting everything thousands of metres to it, often through bogs. It's just not economically viable.
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Very little untouched nature these days. Conservation is a human construct of what it used to look like. Basically an open air museum, but the exhibits (rare species) are living.
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Only if it’s not controlled. Regular cut and collect will keep it at bay. Look at roadside verges. 1m of no bracken and then it’s taller than the cars. Best to sacrifice a fraction of a percent of the worst ground on the site which then pays for weeks worth of work on the rest of the site. It’s a pretty simple cost:benefit ratio to my eyes. Off site removal is insanely expensive.
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Off site soloutions (grab lorries, tub grinders, green waste sites) are stupidly expensive and for this reason I don't support them.The most practical soloution in my experience is a dump site on a low value bit of the heath. There's always a nutrient dense corner covered in birch and bracken somewhere. Burning is good in theory but it can be a struggle to burn pulled scrub due to the volume of soil on the roots. And the fire site will always need clearing up thoroughly anyhow. So seems pretty pointless to me given that a well stacked dump site on waste ground will rot down in five years to nearly nothing, whilst providing a habitat for certain things. Basically, I think there's limited money for any nature reserve, so let's not spunk it processing green waste any more than necessary. I do both depending upon what the client wants. Wish I didn't have to bother with the extra hassle of burning though.
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We’ve actually cut and collected all the edges where we could, and pulled out the thicker gorse mechanically to get back to 12m firebreaks. The reverse flail was just to flatten out the pulled areas and get any bits sticking up so that we know the cut and collect will be fine to go over it all next year.
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Reverse drive, sideshift and top link on the joystick. Air conditioning and radio on. Luxury.
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Clamshell and steel tracks making life easy.
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There are greatly diminishing returns as regards weight once you start spending a lot of money. The most important weight to save is rotating weight- starting at the outside edges. Lightweight kevlar bead tyres (which are then a compromise as regards puncture resistance) and decent carbon wheels will make it feel a lot quicker off the mark. But then you're into durability concerns, and I don't think such a setup would be right for you. Have you considered an electric bike?
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Wow, that’s some setup!! Few quid there. Are you running it from a generator?
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What will an ash woodland look like in 10 years time?
doobin replied to 5lab's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
I’m going with barren waste or brambles. Things grow painfully slowly on these thin chalk soils. -
Piece of cake mate. Unscrew the cap and replace the o ring inside. If you mess it up, just buy a complete new unit for a few quid. If you go new you will need to ID the pipe sizes. 19mm spanner is 1/4" bsp, 22mm is 3/8" and 27mm is 1/2". Those look BSP to me. What does the spool valve control? This might nto be the right valve but it gives you an idea. Hydraulic Monoblock 1 Bank 40 L/Min Lever Control Spool Valve Double Acting WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>Hydraulic Monoblock 40 L/Min Lever Control Spool Valve </p><p>1 Bank - Double Acting</p><p>3 positions spring...
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The infeed is variable speed via a hydraulic bleed off valve, so most of the oil is just circulating under no pressure. It’s a basic design but I’d say value for money for the average small private estate or large garden. I was a touch disappointed with mine on my Kubota, and then I tried it on the Iseki in 1000 and it behaved like I wanted it to.
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Not in this case. The flywheel goes faster, the wood goes through faster. Which is more efficient. I have the same chipper, the Rock Machinery version. They are not geared up from 540 rpm to a sensible flywheel speed- so they can be run anywhere up to 1000rpm. The sticker even says 540/1000rpm. 540rpm is decidedly lacklustre.
