doobin

I borrowed a mates and of course the recoil gave up the ghost.. Any leads on what it's a copy of or where to find a new recoil? It's quite a specific fit.. Petrol 4 Stroke Post Driver Fence knocker Jack Hammer Rammer Pile Picket Fencing WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 900W, 4 Stroke, 37.7cc, single cylinder, air cooled engine. FREE heavy duty plastic carry case. Product Features.

Plant lorry at £75/hr plus VAT from their yard back to their yard.

Local plant hire firm will move it with one of their wagons.

Snowplough.

Only side to side sadly

They are a simply fantastic arb digger.

Tilty working well being shared between the e27 and the e19. Still think I prefer a separate rotator/grab combo though.

Oh the irony. here’s my latest. It will be an arb digger, but I need to buy a grab first. 2015 model but only 380 genuine hours. Nice spec including TAB boom and angle dozer blade. Must be a 75-80k digger new. The backhoe is sold, I just couldn’t make it work for me.

I’m down to three tractors, which I think is a more sensible number. Had to resist the urge to buy a NH 55hp with front and rear pto the other day… Both the Antonio Carraro and Kubota are up to 300 hours. Difference is that the alpine has reached it in nine months whereas the Kubota is three and a bit years old the alpine has also had far more teething issues than should be expected from the ‘premium’ brand. It is a really good tractor for our work though. The joystick control for the hydraulics is very comfortable to use. old Iseki plods along.

Viscosity isn’t so much the issue, it’s the additives. You will quickly fk a modern envisions control engine with the wrong oil. Call your local motor factors and give then the reg. they will be the cheapest anyhow so why go elsewhere?

Looks like the Iron Dome is doing a good job of protecting them.

If you try to lay 2cm of gravel on top of concrete it'll be skittish as hell and spit everywhere.

Groundworker here. You can't successfully add a thin layer of anything granular such as planings onto concrete. It can't be compacted to bite into the solid concrete substrate (as opposed to loose rock or soil) and will remain loose, unless you were to put a mega thick layer on. You can't resurface concrete. Ok, you technically can, but it's not cost effective, and a thin layer won't work without a large amount of additives to make the new layer stick and not fracture (similar to laying floor screed, but subject to weathering and 3.5t plus!) You can't plane that, it'll just come up in lumps so you may as well pull it up and start again with a decent sub base. Tarmac would work though. No reputable resin company would lay on that. Sub base is key for resin drives, if you resin that there will be cracks all over in under a week. Usually to do with the quality of the planings (how much road dust is mixed in) and whether a sufficient layer was added to allow them to bind. Weather and compaction method also make a big difference. OP- Your gravel grid idea is quick and easy, you could do it yourself. It may well suffice given the retaining edge that I can see in the photo, although you'd need to frame it with other edges. No point putting anything other than gravel in the grids as the grids hold it all and it can't bind through the grids can it? If it was me I'd get a reputable firm to skim it with 50mm of tarmac, assuming there is room for that as regards DPC and other edges. Fairly cheap and will give the best result without ripping up and startipng again. Again, a reputable firm, not door knockers.

You need to post wider scale pics ideally. Not so we can confirm honey fungus, but so we can see if your house is worth saving.

Probation period doesn’t actually mean much. If someone has worked for you for less than two years you can let them go with no reason required.

‘Dead ending’ a service will often cause a stall, depending upon how the relief valves are set and the power of the engine. In this instance the 13hp engine doesn’t take much stalling, but it should die at full revs. Might want the relief valve adjusting a bit. Look what came out of the shed for the first time in months today!

That option would cost more than a secondhand decent compact tractor. When i first started I was always looking for the one machine to do everything. You know- adaptors to use a digger as a loader. Backhoe for the tractor instead. Etc etc. It doesn't exist. Not only that, but anyone who runs compact kit will be the first to acknowlege that their machine is used right at it's limit 90% of the time. So if a dedicated bit of kit it on it's limit performing it's task 90% of the time, what use is a machine that does everything half as well?

They shake you about something chronic. Had a go on one and really wasn't impressed. Not for me. But solidly built, plenty of steel where you want it for sure.

Just call them. A wealth of knowledge.

Ice spikes you put over boots?

Crampons on timber make you more likely to break an ankle not less!! Screw in studs are the way forward.

Miendl used to make the Timbercats but now discontinued. Phone Supatracks. They supply all kinds of studs to screw into the soles of boots. Good advice and not expensive.

Depends entirely upon your skills, motivation, and whether you're self employed or on the books.

I use a 240v high pressure compressor to fill my PCPs

I'd normally agree with you...but... Bisley Magnums pack a punch because they weigh a lot. Which means the trajectory isn't nearly as flat as other .177s. The BC is also not great. And the biggy for me- they are just not accurate in a lot of barrels. Squirrels are tough. They need a good hit to take them down. You will also be shooting them up high, which means you need to know your holdover points for that. So you may as well learn the holdover points in .22 for squirrels IMHO. Other than that, I'm a .177 man too.