doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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Just a Winton topper. Nice big swing back blades- ideal for nature reserve work when you might just decide to thin a patch of something out on the way past. it’s a real beast on the alpine in reverse mode. Cheap enough too.
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Out on second round of bracken control today. Up hill, down dale, through the trees, the occasional straight line. Absolutely ideal tractor for it. It’s far quicker across the ground than the equivalent compact tractor, and much more accurate than a large tractor and topper. Loving the reverse drive.
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It’s warrantied with rubber or steel for five years. It’s finally summer, so rubber track time. Much nicer on hard surfaces. steels are for winter work on slopes or in the woods, and they excel at that.
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It’s a good head, I just find the auto cut 25 easier around obstacles. The 40 feels numb in comparison once you’ve tried the 25. but it’ll do all you want for now and it comes with the strimmer.
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You can't just extend the shaft, you have to buy the long shaft model to start. Else you'll spend silly money on new bits. Stihl 2.4mm line (orange) is all I use for grass. In a smaller head (change the internal nuts to fit). That red cord works well for brambles etc in the 4-way Autocut head.
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Highly recommended. After my Husky polesaw shit the bed after three years use (probably used for around 10 hours total!) and the Stihl previosuly gave me no end of issues, I've gone battery. And let me tell you, this thing knocks the spots off any petrol polesaw I've used. Savage power, masses of torque and not too bad to hold. It's 12". hopefully it uses the same chain as my M18 top handle, which I think is 1/4 and a very narrow kerf, it really makes a difference. I used it for the first time in anger on the larger hazel stems in this hedge, and honestly, no sooner had I touched a 4" stem then it was through it. Never felt anything like it. As I'm already heavily invested in the M18 battery system, I didn't feel that around £450 plus VAT was a terrible price either. I'm using a 12ah high-output battery on it. I'd always advise people to get the high output batteries for these kind of M18 tools, the difference is palpable.
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I used to do shitloads of strimming as you describe. You don't want an FS561. They are built for cutting Christmas trees. Much heavier, way more vibes and nasty to use in comparison to an FS461. Even the FS491 is a noticeably different platform, I have both and the FS461 is much nicer to use. Penty of power, I run without the guard, a foot of string each side and the nut swapped from the standard Autocut 40 head to an Autocut 25, which gives a nice nimble cutting end for getting around obstacles with the minimum of movement. 2.4mm line is plenty, if you need to do heaver stuff then put the 4 way head on with some 2.7mm line. Thicker line just drags a machine down, it's a waste of time on grass. This surgical approach has seen me well, and despite nowadays spending every day sat in a cab except when I cut the church grass, I could still 'out-strim' anyone here who wishes to throw their hat into the ring. @Stubby? 🤣
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Hard at work. Bashed this bracken flat initial with the reverse topper. Now cut and collect for the second cut and to pick up a lot of the litter. ideal tractor for working between the trees.
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At 26hp for your avant (?) I think you may be disappointed. Add hydraulic losses into the equation and it’ll be equivalent to a 15hp petrol model. I’ve not used one personally but I’ve not heard many good things said about them, especially considering what they cost. Regarding wear on the machine- constant flow hydraulics will dirty the hydraulic oil quickly on any machine. Change it regularly.
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Devils advocate here, but gypos don’t tend to bother with chipping. It’s usually whole branches tipped in a lay-by, if indeed they remove it at all.
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I agree in principle, however iveco can be hard to get any sense out of with a basic code reader. Especially for such a weird problem. I’d be looking at system voltages when reverse engaged. A major voltage drop could cause the system to shut down. You could look at the reverse lights also, possibly a short here (although you’d expect a fuse to pop) is it @Rac man who’s a bit of a whizz on iveco?
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Well fk this for a game of soldiers. Wet and 11 degrees outside. it’s June ffs!
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With a large enough cc strimmer that’s a perfectly acceptable technique, particularly if the grass is to be raked up later.
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Am I the only person who has no trouble whatsoever windrowing knee high grass with just 2.4mm Stihl line on an FS460? Guard off, max string out before it starts to drag. I even use the little bump feed head from a smaller Stihl for a nice accurate cut around obstacles. I can't stand thicker line unless for brambles, and even then a 4 way head with 2.7mm line is fine until you get to old enough brambles to need a blade. I think the main problem people have with cord is not listening to the engine note and running it down to almost nothing. Got to keep it bumped out otherwise it flexes too much by the eyelet and shears off there too.
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The key with a blade is only to have enough revs to keep it's momentum up- which is usually a lot less than people think. If you rev it flat out and swing it into a stump, then yes, you'll have problems. Also, what strimmer are you using? Unless it's a Stihl, Husky or other decent brand, that's probably your main issue- and given that you've described it as '52cc strimmer', I'm guessing you have a Chinese thing. Get a Stihl or Oregon brushcutter or clearing saw and you'll be fine.
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I'd say the percentages might not be quite so absoloute. And listen to your gut. If your gut says they're not for you, then are NOT FOR YOU. Seriously.
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Get out and about. Talk to people even though you feel you don't want to. Two suicides in my local area last month, both 25. Men need to talk more. This is a good step.
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Come off it mate. Leaving aside the issue of uninhabitable wrecks being council tax exempt, farmers up and down the land are rushing to sell off old wrecked barns with the automatic dwelling planning permission their Tory chums gifted them under Class Q. Ranging from £1m plus in the south to £50k in the arse end of Ireland for a shell of a barn. Yet you're telling me that your local farmer would rather spend a day knocking it down with a digger rather than selling it and pocketing £50k? Where do you live, Beruit? Stop pushing this ridiculous myth that without saintly landlords rental houses will just dissapear. It doesn't stand up to any logic or reason.
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There are no stats whatsoever there other than the headline one. Nothing in that 'article' (from a landlord forum no less) gives any indication to what happened to the 400,000 units that disappeared from the rental stock. Are they all AirBnBs? Or did a lot of them become owner occupied instead?
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Just count your lucky stars you weren’t tied in to a years contract, that’s how these companies usually work. No cooling off or other consumer protections for business to business.
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Or you could even try the correct answer on for size….the house price drops slightly as it now makes no sense to rent it out and people who previously rented can buy their own houses. Landords keep trying to push this fallacy that if they sell up the house will just disappear. It will only disappear from the rental market- for which demand will shrink by one unit as the house becomes owner-occupied instead. You are being utterly ridiculous suggesting that they would be just left vacant (with who paying the mortgage??) or demolished if the landlord couldn’t make profit from them and decided to sell. Neither of those options would ever happen.
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What happens to the houses that aren’t suitable for holiday lets, do they just disappear?
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That’s the one. I have them on every machine. Seriously good quality- soft touch on nice bearings and cone with bolts to fit any steering wheel perfectly.
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Bracken control in the new alpine. Lovely with a joystick for the hydraulics and aircon. Hydrostatic drive is perfect for this- plenty of short work on nature reserves, and you can really get a lick on when it comes to the straights. I could never go to a geared machine.
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Yeah, there’s no one machine that does it all. I’d stick with mini skids for the tight stuff, my ‘big’ loader is an 8.4 and it’s about as small as I’d want.
