wicklamulla
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Everything posted by wicklamulla
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here ya go Dent. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/arb-trucks/95579-landcruiser-its-way-oz.html
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I tink everyone is referring to climbing saws Timbermcp. But a 3120 is incredibly easy to restart on spikes as the one I use fires into life first pull every time i go to restart it when i'm blocking down big stuff. As fer the 3120 single sided chainbrake lever and it's clever reset mechanism, now that does make my life easier too as it requires little effort and helps to prevent my digits from getting strained The reason i switch off a 3120 is because when i'm repositioning my flip line and getting comfortable fer the next 'chog' it's not eating up fuel. These saws drink fuel at a fair ole rate so i do my bit to conserve it. It's also good to have some silence whilst chatting to the groundies.
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Tanks fer the replies all.
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Gotta be better than the van in yer profile pic! Cabstar is ideal or an Isuzu Grafter .
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Beau, oil no sleep at noight unless there is an oil screen in that thar enjun fer me to lovingly remove, fondle and clean
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pishing doon here all morning FFS. Gotta go out inna bit and assemble a load of Heras fencing to make a 'lunge ring' thing-a-majig so me mate can break in a horse. Hope this coming week is drier as i gotta-lot of work on atm.
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Hi all, the above lump is fitted to me stump grinder. Do these engines have an oil filter as i cannot find any reference to either an oil filter or an oil screen? Thanks in advance xxXXxx
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i was thinking that too. In my opinion climbing saws shud be started up and used to execute whatever cuts are close by and then immediately shut off till you reposition. Apart from starting mine up from cold and letting it dangle at the end of the tool strop fer 30 secs or so afore i pull it up to make the first cut, i never leave them idling as they all get very hot, especially these newer breed of saws with Catalytic perverters fitted.
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Hi-Line are pretty good to work fer Stoatally, typical utilities work which i quite enjoyed at the time. I did 3 years with them and made some good friends.
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the perfect combination i guess, just alot more expensive.
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Rod D, I bought my 2510 from you with the stihl 0.43 c&b option, shud i remove said chain and bar and hang onto it or send it back with the 2510 ? Not sure if i kept the cardboard box the saw arrived in though.
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people whos got Rock Machinery grinder new teeth on the cheap
wicklamulla replied to littlerob's topic in Large equipment
that's a big 10/4 Dan, i just looked at the used spare set i was given with the machine and sure enuf it's as you described above. So your machine runs a 'Quadrablade' setup too i guess ? What do you do with the blunt sets, bin them or resharpen them with a grinding stone or send them off to be re-tipped ? -
people whos got Rock Machinery grinder new teeth on the cheap
wicklamulla replied to littlerob's topic in Large equipment
well now Dan that i do not know! I bought this grinder, a SCAG mower and a large chipper as a job lot from a friend who had lots of kit but didn't actually use it very much as he mainly did Fencing and parish lengthsmen type work. I'll need to download the manual and make some inquiries as to what blade system it can use. -
I had a Maruyama split shaft strimmer/brush cutter out on demo last year from a friendly dealer. Twas about 25cc me thinks, i liked it but decided not to spend out at that point in time. I also fitted the long reach hedge trimmer attachment to it and was amazed at how heavy it was, this ultimately put me off as it would be pure agony doing long conifer hedges with it.
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people whos got Rock Machinery grinder new teeth on the cheap
wicklamulla replied to littlerob's topic in Large equipment
Hi Dan, what type of grinder do u have as it looks similar to my US Praxis PRX13 (GX390 Honda) from the pic u uploaded ? I need new teeth or have the 2 sets i have either re-tipped? or sharpened as i only bought this used machine recently and it's pretty blunt ! -
yep i also run a 360TES and it's a fair ole bus when it's fitted with a 14'' b&c. good saw though.
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Mine was £355 delivered to my door with the 10'' stihl 0.43 carving bar and chain.
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The saw has been removed from sale and is no longer available.
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yep the switch does look a bit cheap but it has a nice smooth action. I just wondered if it was a bit susceptible to damage but mine is aok so far. Oil cap came undone once for me but i put it down to the cap getting bumped against a limb.
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FFS there was a couple of cases of the CS360 TES catching fire due to the zorst melting the plastic cover. I melted 2 or 3 covers and they offered me a refund. I declined. Simply remove the catalyst from the zorst and problem solved. Cud do the same with the 2510 I guess.
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My Echo 360TES needs the needle bearing greased bout 3 times per year or it squeaks.
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yes most XP huskies have a hole down thru the output shaft to lube said bearing but the 360 TES and the 2510 TES does not. I'm surprised at how tight the clutch is fitted as i failed to remove it.
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why do you say that Wolter, do you reckon there is enough chain oil flying about to keep the bearing lubricated ?
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Tried to remove the clutch drum today in order to grease the output shaft bearing. I removed the spark plug and pushed lots of starter cord down the plug hole to act as a piston stop but every time i tried to wind off (clockwise) the clutch it just rotated around 360 degrees instead of being 'locked' solid by the cord, i tried a heavier gauge cord and that too failed so i gave up! I wonder if the top of the combustion chamber is 'dome topped' ? I might hafta buy a specific screw in piston stop for this wee saw.
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is it 110 or a 130 ?
