miker
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Everything posted by miker
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always cut upwards , slow and steady and i find the longer the cutter bar the better, short bars dip in and show up on tight packed thuja and yew, take your time ,on the tops i cut with first pass then clear the top with your bar inclined 30 ish degrees and 3rd pass have cutters running
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will do, what name shall i say:thumbup1:
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ive thought long and hard about full size and compact,being able to put it on a trailer won it really,drive to site and you have a breakdown youre stuck on site was another factor, so i think compact it is, a 40 hp would be good,dont really want to go below 30hp
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it lives, , metering arm was low,cleaned and reset carb, fired straight up, adjusted idle and jobs a goodun! cheers lads always good to find help on this site
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hopefully now in the market to get myself a compact tractor, main use will be paddock topping/grass cutting, hoping to use 4 foot mower, so any thoughts on suitable machine, ie hp, 2wd/4wd, will also double up to run post knocker/possibly rotorvator/stone burier etc, loader to come at later date or maybe package with loader ? looking to spend 7k ish, any thoughts/experiences/pros/cons/makes/models:thumbup1: cheers mike
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ash will suck the oil off of your bar, as others have said never let your chain oil run out before your fuel,pita i know but regulate your oil flow for different types of wood, good rule of thumb like spud said, you should see a thin line of oil appear when you run the saw near a log etc
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my oregon one does the same !
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remember it well, was 18 i worked with my brother on the windblow,for those who know winchester area,girlfriend lived in owslebury and couldnt get to see her,morestead road looked like a kerplunk explosion
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remember you will have to change drive sprocket to 404 aswell, i would stick with 3/8ths on your saw imo, cheers
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cheers, will pull it apart on sunday and let you know how i get on
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what should these be set at, cover says 1 for lo, 3/4 for high but i turn on l screw and it wont start, i have turned screw out a bit at a time , will start but stalls after about 2 seconds,got it to run for a few seconds but touch the throttle and it stops immiediately, this is not my saw i will add:001_rolleyes: cheers in advance
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i have husky 99,s,but only use them on yew hedges,they have a finer cut/tooth,they make a nice job
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45 end of the month,18 in my head tho
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390 xp
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go for the jonny, prob better parts availability as is the same as husq 350
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good luck mate, hope everything works out well for you
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nice bedford m type too
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Anyone know of local supplier (Hampshire) or does anyone have any that i can buy, need enough to cover a 9x16 foot structure, 9 foot being the depth. cheers mike
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yep romsey reclamation
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i had same problem with my 9000, i bought a 30" oregon bar and took it to machine shop, they cut the slot out to 14mm, job done, but was 058 gauge , so new chain aswell,other option is to order 12mm studs from dolmar(got fed up waiting for mine) so went down previous route, if you are handy with a bandsaw and a file you could do it yourself, oil holes lined up ok and worked as it should
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i buy JUSTIN boots from across the pond, bit pricey but last for years,waterproof and easy to break in, my latest pair are thermal , great in the winter, i wear dm,s through the summer tho
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great mowers,lawnflite,sarp/kaaz/danarm ,they are bloody heavy tho,but will do the job,ive got the sarp 19 inch roller,incredible collection,can you use 2 planks for loading ?
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not down there until monday, ill take some pics either way
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nice one, thanks, will let you know how i get on
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ok mate, not sure what model it is, are the points behind flywheel like the old webbs ?
