Timberwolf Official

Hi Armchairarbourist Thanks for the pics they are most informative. From them it appears that you are using a graphite based grease, this is a big NO NO, as graphite acts as a grinding paste and will wear your parts away, please use a mulit purpose grease at all times on the chipper. It is not uncommon for the roller to be pushed to the end when grease is applied, but if you run the machine for a couple of secs then regrease then run again and by performing this action a couple of times the grease will run and even itself out in the cavity. You must check that the bearings have not been damaged by the twine getting jammed, when the unit is isolated try moving the bottom roller and if there is more than 1mm of play your bearing will need checking. The gouges in the rollerbox side has been caused by the twine, it would be safe to use the machine but be aware of debris wrapping itself around the extra space. Hope that this help Regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi That engine did have two drain points, one right in the middle of the sump and one at the front of the sump. The engine manufacturer decided to remove the middle one. It may be there if the machine is pre this change, I am sure you would have spotted it, if indeed it was there. Jeff

Thank you for your comments. We take all feedback from our customers very seriously. I will endeavour to fully understand the issue and see if there is room for me to design the issue out. An internal document has already been raised and I will come back to you when we have some answers. Thanks again for bringing it to our attention and sorry for the aggrevation it has caused you. Jeff Haines Design Director.

Hi Slasherscot If you have inadvertingly pulled out the cables from the grey no stress box, I would strongly suspect that this has caused the integrated circuits to fail in the box due to being shorted out. Depending on what grey box unit you have fitted it can be replaced with a new speed switch and sensor. If you need help with part numbers etc please contact the Tech support line at Timberwolf but we will need to know the serial number of your machine to enable the settings to be programmed into the new part. tel 01449 765800 option 2 or 3 regards Timberwolf Tech Support.

Hi Dougie44 Have heard of this problem before and it seems that the location hole for the Torx driver gets filled up with debris and does not get cleaned out enough for the Torx bit to grip properly and subsequently it slips and damaged the head, if this has happened you can weld on a bolt to the torx Head and remove them that way but they will need replacing with new. cost of a new bolt is £0.60p ea When you replace the bolts please ensure that you use copper slip anti seize compound and this eliminates the problem. If you have changed one blade it is not recommended to continue using the machine as it means the rotor could be out of balance and this causes it to spin in an eliptical manner putting extreme pressure and torque on the shaft and rotor which will soon wear out and cost even more to put right. Blades are sharpened as a pair to ensure weight is even. Hope that this makes sense but if you need any further help contact me at Timberwolf Tech Support. Regards Tech Support.

Hi The unit is covered by the warranty and should be taken back to the dealer from where you purchased it to have it looked at, you may invalidate any warranty if you try to take it apart. It does sound like a fuel problem, and the advise given in the threads is sound, dirt & debris does find its way into the tank even though it is a new machine, if you take the unit to a honda agent they should be able to sort it for you, Was advised of your problem from others, if you have a specific question please post it on the Timberwolf Forum as it is monitored daily. regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi Dave As you say Holt JCB are the local dealer to you for this bearing change. There is a possibility that you may have damaged the rotor but it depends on how long you operated the unit with failed bearings. Holt JCB have had an engineer into our works for full training so I know there is at least one guy who knows what he is doing on Timberwolf, Another dealer is D.S.Bennet who operate in Devon if they are nearer to you contact no. 01822 618070 Hope that this helps Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi Dave It certainly sounds like your rotor bearings have failed. Please do not run the machine with the bearings failed as if you do it will cause even more damage to parts. The parts are not costly but without having the unit stripped down to check what is required you cannot guess at what needs replacing and what the parts costs will be. As for doing the work yourself, only you can decide, the procedure to follow is not complicated but if you come across a problem and you do not have the knowledge or the tools you may cause more damage, we would recommend that you take the unit to one of our dealers who have been trained to put things right. Contact us again if we can be of further assistance, call the main number and ask for Tech Support and we will do all we can. regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi The answer to your question is very simple, the red light that is showing indicates that there is power to the no stress unit, in earlier models it was a green light, this is normal, be concerned if the light is not there. Timberwolf tech Support

Thanks - Your very welcome! Steve Tech Services

Hi Dandk groundcare I have checked the archives and have found some breakdown of parts and some operating instuctions for the unit plus a wiring diagram. Would be pleased to copy them for you, Please call me on 01449 765820 and I will put it in motion regards Timberwolf Tech Support

D.J Davison Firewood. Tel: 01359 230075| Baileypool Farm, Baileypool Lane, Pakenham, Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk IP31 2LY Hope this helps

try David Davison at Pakenham Suffolk

Hi Gavin Sorry to hear that you have got a problem. Some simple checks to make are 1. Ensure full throttle is established in operation mode 2, Engine revs should be around 3400 rpm 3, check drive train belt tension - shouyld be very tight 4, check hydraulic belt tension - should be tight 5. check in line hydraulic filter is not blocked, and condition of hydraulic oil. 6, check air filter is not blocked 7, Check that the speed sensor for the no stress system is set as close as possible to the trigger wheel without touching 8, check SRB500 relays are OK and connections to base are secure. Further checks can be carried out using the no stress bypass but before you do this please contact me for the safe operation of what to do. Tel no. 01449 765820 during office hours Hope that the above cures your problem but call ifyou need further help, if you call please have the serial number of the unit available as I can look up the database for the unit for all the settings regards Timberwolf Tech Support.

Hi Richard If you have had your unit outside for some time, it could be that the fuel cap is not breathing properly, and this could be the cause of your problem, alternatelvly You could have water in the fuel line which has frozen and this is causing fuel starvation, please check the in line filter for water contamination, and change if required. Most off the shelf (ie pump delivered) fuels, including red, have a frost protection additive in the mix and it is usually another cause other than frozen fuel. regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi You are correct that we recommend that the best thing to do is to replace the control box complete as the fwd button and contacts are not available anymore, however I have checked our stock and to my great surprise have found a button and contact. Our part numbers are as follows Green Fwd Button part no. 1260 Norm Open contacts part no. 2648 After these there are no more available, honest guys these are the last ones. If you want them either contact your local dealer or if you have an account contact our spares dept. regards Timberwolf Technical Support.

Hi Benedmonds From what you describe tha anvil may require changing, the main thing to look for is the rounding off of the edge, if it has a radius on it of more than 3mm then it needs changing but it less than that you may be able to get away with tickling it up with a grinder to bring the edge back to square, However please be very carefull as the anvil is hardened material and if you take too much off you will remove the hardness and render the anvil useless. The optimum gap between the anvil edge and the blade is 2.5 to 3.00mm, at this gap you will achieve the best results, the larger the gap the less efficient the chipper becomes, which places extra load on the rotor bearings etc.. I would suggest that to bring you machine back up to its full potential you have the anvil changed. regards Timberwolf Tech Support.

Hi TY Korrigan To fully answer your serious question please e mail me at [email protected] and we will provide you with all the information you require. Regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi Theocus A serious answer to your semi serious question. You will have noticed that the machine has a wide funnel attached to the rotor housing which is an ideal collection point for a rain gauge, and with the weather as it has been would not take long to accumulate in the rotor housing. As to your comment on the sealing of the unit, for so much rain water to remain in the housing the seal cant be too bad, We recognised that this was a possibility that the elements could enter the machine and on newer machines put a drain hole in the rotor housing, can I suggest that if you have a newer unit you unblock the hole to allow the escape of the water thus enabling you to start your machine with no problems OH by the way do not stand near the discharge tube when you start up as you may have an extra shower And if you can store the unit and protect it from the elements, it woiuld benefit the unit a great deal, and raise the jockey wheel as high as possible to help drain the water away from the funnel. regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi Nottstrees The earlier machines were manufactured with different engines, I think that you have a m/c with a Honda engine, the early model had a rectifier fitted with a trickle charge of 1.2amps which charged the machine at a low rate when in operation, and with the use being a stop / start of the machine this was not sufficient to charge the battery. the only way to keep a charge in the battery is to run the machine all the time. There is a retro kit avaialble from Honda but the price is so expensive that it is nearly the cost of a new engine. Later models had a rectifier with a 3 amp trickle charge which is capable of keeping a battery fully charged with the stop / start operation of the machine If you provide me with the serial number of your machine I should be able to look up the records and find out which engine you have. regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi David It could be that the no stress unit has developed an internal fault, to test the machine please perform the following test, With the machine in a safe condition and turned off, find the 2 by pass wires for the no stress unit, these are located underneath the box and are 2 wires twisted together with bullet point connectors, connect the wires together and try your machine, if it works OK then it points to the no stress being faulty, If it is still the same then there are a couple of other tests that can be performed, and it would be easier to talk you through them rather than trying to explain in text. Call me if you require further assistance my number is 01449 765820 regards Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi David Please check that you have the correct rpm onthe engine, should be 2800, check throttle stop and throttle cable, sometimes people use the throttle lever for a coat hanger, check internal linkage is not bent. IS the no stress system an EPS 1000 type, to test the circuit without the no stress installed you have to by pass the system, with the machine turned off, connect the two bullet point connectors together which are located underneath the No stress box, then turn on and try machine, if all is oK then I would suspect the no stress box has developed a fault, if not there are a couple more checks to perform which we can guide you through, please call me at Timberwolf on 01449 765800 and ask for technical support . Timberwolf tech Support

Hi Lurcherman Before you go to the trouble of changing your anvil it is best to check the condition of your anvil and blades and the blade gap that is present in your machine. The blades should be hollow ground and the rule of thumb is " can they sharpen a pencil" if yes then OK if No then resharpen. Blades on 190 can be turned around therefore giving you a double edge, when refitting please ensure that the area on the rotor is clean and free from debris as if they do not sit down correctly, when tightened, they will not work effectivly and could cause problems. Torque setting for the blade bolts is 125 lbs ft. Check anvil for roundness on the cutting edge, if it is excessive, 3mm rounding or over then the anvil requires changing. The blade gap should be 2.5 to 3mm between anvil edge and blade edge. The rounding of the anvil conbined with blunt / worn blades will increase the gap to a point where it tends to bend instead of chipping. If you have to change the anvil, it is a job that can be performed by the DIY'er Procedure is to remove funnel assembly, wiring is disconnected by plug connection, the bottom roller has to be removed to expose the 2 x cap head bolts. The cap head bolts (M12 x 40) are glued in on factory production and need some heat to aid removal, these will be the most difficult operation of the change. Upon reassembly the torque setting for the anvil bolts is 65 lbs ft plus the use of a medium to high strength thread adhesive. Hope that this is some assistance to you. Timberwolf Tech Support

Hi Josharb87 The resistor thingy is a diode, the function of a diode is to allow the flow of electricity in one direction only, eliminatig any back feeds that may be around. These back feeds will have an effect on the ''fail to safe'' set up that is present on all chippers. I would recommend that you reconnect this in line, but be careful as if you reconnect in the wrong way round, it will cut your circuit. The orange wire, in the switch is used if you have a high funnel fitted to the chipper, it is for an extra safety stop which you do not have, reconnect back to the terminal with the black with green trace wire for good housekeeping. Glad that you have sorted your problem and that we were able to assist. Regards Timberwolf Tech Support