tommer9

Like you say Bob....at £300, a tenner to keep it right on all fronts is nothing. A krab is more than that!!

I reckon that they are chipping something really spikey, which is why they are handling it so gingerly. At 2.28 you can see that the material isnt actually being chipped- in the back of the truck is an unchipped bit! No wonder going through at that speed.

Those chuck and duck bandits are pretty impressive... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8TkTpiLbcs]YouTube - ‪Bandit - conventional-drum-chippers‬‏[/ame]

Firstly remove the housing on the front of the engine and the housing around the pulley wheel on the outside of the cutterwheel housing. [ATTACH]57462[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]57463[/ATTACH] Then, working under the machine, remove the four bolts and plate holding the front engine mount/ slider in place, also removing the corresponding plate from under the engine, which forms the slider for engaging the drive. [ATTACH]57464[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]57465[/ATTACH] Then remove the pins that attach the slider mechanism for the engine, to the engine.. [ATTACH]57466[/ATTACH] Working at the rear of the engine, having slid it forward as far as fuel and hydraulic hoses allow, (you could disconnect these to allow more movement if necessary, blocking pipes to ensure no dirt ingress of course), remove the ring of 17mm bolts that attach the housing around the v-belts to the block, and undo the two grub screws on the bearing. [ATTACH]57459[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]57460[/ATTACH] You can now slide the whole lot backwards, allowing you to squeeze the belts off around the end of the shaft. Fit new belts, and refitting is a reversal of removal. Hope it makes sense.

The log merchants or biomas would have the 5" dbh hardoowds i would imagine, given the difficuly of finding hardwood at the mo.

Thats an incredible contraption that Unicender!

BTW dean....250 is nowhere NEAR enough light for that area- you will end up with either etiolated of very deficient plants. In an area 2mx2m you need AT LEAST a 400w lamp, and after one long season the lumen output will have dropped so far that you need a new one. Ideally run a 600w over that lot.....Plus you will need a LOAD of insulation in there during the winter months or your efforts will be a bit of a waste, merely keping the plants alive. As a rule of thumb, you should put your hand at the level of the top of the plant, and be able to feel the warmth from the lamp a bit.

That really is not the main reason for hydroponics. Hydroponics were not designed with illegal activities in mind at all, but as a way of producing far higher yield in a small space, with total control and the ability to replicate and control nature as a response to food needs. Growing in ANY medium is technically hydroponics, its just that most people think of it as the NFT or flood and drain techniques etc that are abundant. The weed growing fraternity are a miniscule part of the whole hydroponic movement. The advantages of automated nutrient and watering systems, with absoloute control of pH and CF compared to growing in soil are enourmous. With the advent of growing mediums such as coir (coconut strand) are now being recognised (due to their neutrality) but are still very expensive, especially on a commercial scale. As far as illegal growing is concerned, the best dutch weed is still grown in soil based systems. I know its wiki- but here's a link:Hydroponics - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia And heres some strawberries, demonstrating the way in which huge output from minimum space can be achieved: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://easyhydroponicsgardening.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/hydroponics-gardening3.jpg&imgrefurl=http://easyhydroponicsgardening.com/&usg=__gbmi-IpZWT_WxKfeQ6HjnkoPu4I=&h=300&w=590&sz=102&hl=en&start=31&zoom=1&tbnid=2CKua23NsvaocM:&tbnh=88&tbnw=173&ei=L3dhTfHrLpLx4QbFwrmtCg&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dhydroponic%2Bfood%2Bgrowing%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1440%26bih%3D745%26tbs%3Disch:10%2C342&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=489&vpy=443&dur=228&hovh=94&hovw=185&tx=122&ty=28&oei=GHdhTeGNB8L7lwfQ6KjrCw&page=2&ndsp=30&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:31&biw=1440&bih=745

Absolutely brilliant mate. You must be well proud!!

If you want to get rid of it you need to scrape it off with a digger or put pigs in there. If you strim it it will come back.

YOu would have to contact Moorheat for that sort of info. Sorry.

16mm liros here. very happy with it.

It does, but space is not an issue for these guys....they own half of the moor from what i can tell!!

Thanks for that. TBH its pretty much as i thought resin-wise. Especially Radiata!

The monolithwould be monitored, by the owner, ho is more than capable (he has don tree work in his day to a small degree loking after gardens etc, now retired) and is certainly a 'naturalist' if you will, and there is scope for guying. The reason for removal is initially to allow light to photovoltaics, but the tree is showing the early stages of decline, has shed 2 large limbs, and a similar tree 100' away fell into the road etc 3 years ago. The surrounding area is heavily wooded primarily with sessile oak (a la ancienne cornish woodland) with a softwood plantation very near- so yes, other habitat is in abundance. It was more a desire to have created some new habitat rather than just leaving a big hole, and that I feel these people would really appreciate the idea too.

I thought about it first.....

BTW i love the last pic of yours....that lower arrow......I've not heard them referred to like THAT before......

I have been following this thread with interest David. I have a pretty big radiata to dismantle in a very wooded valley, albeit this tree is actually in a garden, so slightly more on its own. The tree has a girth of about 6' diameter for about 10', then splits onto about 7 huge limbs forming an upturned hand shape, with a large central leader. How would this tree react to being left as a weird 15' high multi-monolith with slots for habitat? (Im thinking of how quickly the remainig tree, on the edge of a steep slope with a powerline and road 30' below, might decay....) Can these techniques be used on any timber, or are bats more species specific? I would be keen to have a go, and think the customer would be most supportive?

I wonder about the quality of steel too; its well known that steel does vary. HOwever it also made sense to me about the rigidity of the lift set up making the chassis too rigid, and the stresses that would have transferred throughout the chassis become focused on one spot.

Priceless aint it?!?!

Furthermore- rear tubs make crap tippers as they have the wheel arches in them..

Its a bit more than a 2mm box section, as it has strengthening bits and pieces internally.

Ok, this IS very funny.... open up google maps, get directions fom japan to china (these MUST be your destinations to make this work) and check out the 41st instruction:laugh1::laugh1:

:lol:

Nice one Pete...thats as i thought, have started on it. Pics if i remember.