Justme

I assume its a diesel? I bet they had it rev'd up to the limiter & some thing gave out.

It uses a electrical charge sensor to pick up when the blade touches some thing that absorbs the signal. Or some thing like that.

I wonder if this tech has any mileage in chainsaw safety? What a good idea [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE&feature=related]Finger in saw[/ame] (no blood)

No worries. So when under charge what voltage are you seeing at the batts? What amps are you seeing going to each batt? As the batts have been changed its likely the cable is faulty but then how was the amps & volts ok?

But thats not what he said was the problem. Problem was stated as the bat was going flat/not getting charged. Not that it was charged but not providing power. If the current (and volts) has been measured to the battery & is ok then its the bat. But like most problems we have not been given enough info to really get to the bottom of this. If it was in front of me I would chec each bats voltage at rest (12.8v is full) chec each bats voltage under charge (up to 14.4-14.8v once nearly charged) chec each bats voltage under load chec the voltage at the alternator when running chec the amps to each bat & total amps from alt resistance test each terminal (pref under load so a Volt across the terminal test) Then I would check the SG of the bats if poss I would also swap the bats over if I had not found the problem yet. Does it have a split charge relay/diode or are they just linked together? If it does then test that too.

If the batts are getting the correct amps then why suspect the cables? For the cables to be at fault the volts & amps to the bats would be low. Test the bats. try swapping them over & seeing if the fault stays in the same position or mover with the bat. My money is on the bat. Does it have a split charge system / controller or are they just linked together?

Only IF you get the maker to replate its weight. They use the plated weights not actual weights.

I think thats just to show how much it can remove without affecting the temper of the tooth.

Anything in the bags with an address? Cost you £2.50 & a good reason. Send a form in to DVLA. http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicle/AdviceOnKeepingYourVehicle/DG_4022067 The PDF http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum_dg/groups/dg_digitalassets/@dg/@en/@motor/documents/digitalasset/dg_065303.pdf Getting address from car registration - Possible!

I'll give you Deans £100 plus Skyhucks £200 & raise you another £100.

As long as the tranny is plated for that gross train weight or you are breaking construction & use regs.

As title. A friend needs a supplier of seasoned, dry, ready to burn firewood in chiltern for house use. PM me contact details so I can pass them on thanks.

Ours is stacked outside under cover with open sides & has dried to 22% for no costs. & its only taken a few months. Why waste energy? Time is free (ish).

I have to ask. Why? Kiln dried fire wood might burn hotter & you will get more heat per kg of wood but the wood you start with will weigh less when you sell it & it will have used up energy to do so. Ok you can sell it for more but its cost you more to process. Then the buyer will store it outside & it will re absorb moisture till its the same as air dried any way. It just makes no sense to me. Air dry it for long enough. Justme

The rules have changed recently. You now need a cirtificate of destruction from the scrap man. This ensure that they do actually scarp the vehicle & that you are no longer responsible for the fines. DETAILS HERE

Do they want a "feature" of the tree or for it to provide a canopy of light so they can party under it?

That must be wrong? All wood of the same type at the same % moisture will have the same energy in it no matter if its in logs, chip, pellet or matches. You cant add energy by changing its form. In fact if you take into account the processing power used to make the pellets (hammer mill & pelletiser) the NET energy will be less not more. Justme

For agri use you can have a tank of 1500L & not have a bund. Domestic its 2500L

I think he is mad. The pellet idea is to use unusable waste wood from other processes. Like saw dust & chippings. Not to actually process wood that could be used as it is or for less inputs of time, money & machinery. Justme

Oops yeh 165 must have got it confused with my 590 4wd one lol. The splitter has been on that one too but oddly seems to work better at slower revs on the smaller one. But then the 590 is in the shop for a new hyd pump lol.

I have that one. Run it on my MF 160. Justme

Easiest way for him to minimise his cash flow problem is to buy & pay for the item on the last day of the quarter. Then file your Vat return online the next day. The refund will be in the bank in 3 - 7 days (well mine always are anyway). Oh & if you want a few days extra to pay the VAT then file online & you get an extra 7 days to pay up. Justme

Its not clear from the pics but I think you might have a design fault. If I was to stand on the bar in the middle (or a large crow bar) the two ends could pull in allowing the bar to bend. Then that bend could be brought forward allowing the door to open enough to get inside. You need to add more eyes plus either shorted the bar to the nearest eye or add more eyes to each end. That small round end will easy pull round the end unless you add more supports. Also is the round end just welded through the hole or also on the other side? Justme.

Check your hitch height. You see far to many trailered items that are hitched far to high. This alters the wheel camber/inclination/tracking. In the worse cases you see trailers (mostly builders mixers & road rollers for some reason) doing a dance behind the (white van normally) tow vehicle. Justme

Thats a big bag most builders bags (IE the ones with sand in) are far far less & even the 80cm x 80cm x 80cm common sized ones are only 0.52 of a cube. Oddly the batch I have are 85cm square internally so are 0.61 cubes. Even a 90cm square one is only 0.7cm2 Justme