monkeybusiness

I'd defo have a look at a 1928 - they are in a different league to the older Greenmechs you used (I've got an old one with a Lister engine too, so I know what your talking about). I haven't used any other similar sized machine that can keep up with one, and the back up from Greenmech (on the very rare occasion that you need it) is incredible. You can talk directly to the blokes that build them, and there appears to be nothing that they can't fix down the phone! I was in 2 minds about going for the 1928 as it is apparently a 7.5 inch machine (which I was concerned was a bit small), but there is no sub-10 inch chipper out there that will drag more stuff through more quickly. Greenmech seem to have an ill-deserved bad name from people who used the older machines in the past. I would seriously recommend that anybody looking for a new chipper should throw some brash through one of these before making any decisions.

I bought a chipper from a firm today, and they closed the deal by throwing in a pair of boxed brand new xl Stretchair type c class 1 trousers in grey (code on box says 6633 extra large) and 2 boxed brand new Weaver harnesses (both medium, one sit and one leg loops - codes 01041BKCE and 01038BKCE). The trousers aren't my size unfortunately, and I've just had a new harness, so they are all up for sale. If you are interested, pm me or call/text on 07970188050 with your offers. They'll all end up on eBay at the weekend otherwise.

Mine is ace, but the cab is tiny (which is a massive downside). It will go anywhere (tight turning circle etc) and is a brilliant towing machine.

I've got a brand new set of short gaffs that I'd sell. If anyone has a set of long tree gaffs for sale, I'd also be interested (but only after boxhead's sorted - I'm not trying to cock his purchase up!).

I've put some Insa Turbo Special Tracks (very aggressive mud terrains) on the back of my Toyota Dyna (twin wheel 3.5 tonne - like a transit) and it has made a big difference to where it will go. I also put some wider front van tyres on, as a lot of the time it seemed to lose traction when the front tyres sunk in (these seem to help a bit). Be careful with the front tyres though - make sure these are strong enough for the axle loading, as you are more likely to overload these single tyres than the rear doubles. I run this set up all year round with no problems with legality or the MOT etc. The only downside is that they are very noisy - from outside my van sounds like a quad going down the road!

Dunno if anybody recognises this - timberwolf wood chipper on eBay (end time 06-Sep-10 21:01:19 BST) Hopefully it's all above board...

Hi I'm taking a redwood (6-7 feet DBH, 100+ feet tall) down near Tarporley, Cheshire, and was wondering if anyone would be interested in buying the timber from the site? For more info, please call or text me on 07970188050 - please don't pm me as I don't get on here a lot. The tree is coming down next Monday/Tues (6+7 Sept) and could be picked up from roadside by a HIAB wagon (not an Artic though, access won't allow it). It can't be loaded with a tractor front loader, as it will make too much mess on the customer's lawn. Cheers Dan

I think you should be able toget it sorted in Sweden - it's a pan European warranty.

I just wanted to post a quick thread to thank Mac and Jason at Greenmech for all their invaluable advice over the past couple of weeks. I recently bought a 2nd hand 19-28 safetrak and have had a couple of teething troubles (nothing major, but I have been scratching my head a bit...). As a result, I have been hassling the technical guys at Greenmech and they really couldn't have been more helpful and forthcoming with their advice. I just thought the company deserved a mention with regards their technical support - it would have been very easy for them to tell me to take the machine to my nearest dealer, but they never once fielded my calls and avoided talking to me. Regarding the machine, it is without doubt the best all round chipper I have operated (and I have used numerous different makes over the past 10 years). Cheers Greenmech!!!

That just looks like a normal Land Rover door gap to me, I can't see what the problem is...

http://www.sapaprofiles.be/transport.asp

I suppose this little rant is more relevant to those that are approved contractors but... ... until any of the 'Associations' start promoting themselves and our industry to the general public I really cannot see the point in signing up to them. As far as our industry is concerned, I would stick my neck out and say that the majority of customers (with the exception of most LAs, but including a great deal of commercial customers) look at us as relatively unskilled labour, and will buy according to price. Nobody broadcasts the training/ qualifications/ risks/ insurance etc inherent within our industry to those outside it, so the general public remain (at large) ignorant to the fact that there are big differences between those that do the job properly (and legally) and those that don't. Until an 'Association' steps up and offers something akin to CORGI, I personally won't bother paying any of their subs.

Have you been shown any stretches by a physio before you go under the knife? I suffered with it in both hands for about 4 years really bad after I started climbing, but put up with it as I couldn't afford the time off. I got shown a couple of stretches which helped (didn't cure it, but offered some relief) and it now doesn't cause me any problems, unless I try and write a lot (easily avoided!). The stretch that I was shown that helped involves spreading and straightening your fingers as much as possible and then bending your wrists fully back, whilst keeping your fingers straight. Hold this for as long as your can. It can hurt, but does offer some relief (a bit **** at 3 in the morning though, but helps you get back to sleep). BTW, they said they were reluctant to operate on both my wrists at the same time as I wouldn't be able to wipe my arse...

£250 + VAT all gone. Give me a shout on 07970188050 if your interested. Cheers, Dan.

Just had a quick look at the results and I've only gone and won - mint! I'm glad the raffle was such a success - congratulations to all involved. It's a great well deserving cause combined with a huge display of generosity from the prize suppliers. I'm not sure who I need to thank for the split tail but please be assured I am very grateful. Great site by the way - I know I don't contribute a great deal but I do use it for information an awful lot. My only problem seems to be dragging myself away to take care of dreaded paperwork....

If the other fixes don't work, you could try bypassing the stress control and see if they continue to do it. I had a similar problem with one of these machines, and it turned out the flywheel axle was scored as a result of worn bearings. The bearings must have a very tight interference fit on the flywheel. (I'm not sure if it still the case as I moved to Greenmech as a result of this, but you never used to be able to grease the bearings as they are 'sealed for life', which unfortunately let down what was otherwise a very good little machine). This slight movement threw out the stress control sensor's ability to sense the flywheel spinning. If the disconnected stress control cures it, this might be your (unfortunately rather expensive) problem. If you suspect this is the case, slacken all the drive belts and try and coaxe some lateral movement out of the flywheel pulley with a pry bar - if it moves at all then you'd better get your cheque book ready...

I've got a ms65 with the same brake problem. After very little use the brake stopped coming on/off easily - there appears to be wear in the brake handle. I packed out the hole that carries the piece of metal that actuates the brake mechanism with a couple of matchsticks (yeeha I know...) and it works now. I've bought a new brake handle, but not got around to fitting it as the bodge is working fine...

I'm talking about the use of stump treatment in forestry when thinning operations take place - all the trees' root plates will be intertwined and probably grafted, yet i'm not sure if there is a common incidence of Glyphosate finding its way into trees that are left to grow on. The trees in question here are nowhere near as close as your pic - I will get some pics uploaded to try and make things clearer. Great feedback from everybody - thanks for your time and insight.

I'd risk a lift with you but I'm going to a wedding, so I reckon I got off lightly...

A very fair point, and I take on board what you say about the chances of regrowth. Does this mean you never poison stumps if root plates overlap? How do the forestry boys seem to get away with it then? I am fully aware of how Glyphosate translocates, and how Beech grafts in general. Have I been unlucky, or plain stupid?!? With regards tree health, all 3 were excellent before I wrecked everything, no signs of fungus or stress etc. As for quantities, it was a 20% mixture sprayed into a chainsaw-scored (maybe 5mm deep) groove around the cambium around the complete circumference of the tree, but only a quick spray, not to run off. Prob 50-100ml total, ie 10-20ml glyphosate per tree (which to be fair makes it sound like a lot when you work it out...). I have to say it's a bit of a disaster, and I will give serious thought to stump poisoning in the future. As an aside, the manufacturers' expert told me that Glyphos (the actual brand I used) has an extremely short life in soil, and used correctly it is possible to spray off a stubble field and then re-seed 6 HOURS later!

The tree has serious dieback affecting whole branches at various locations throughout the crown - other branches are unaffected. There is also a beech hedge that runs behind the 3 trees (almost touching, but not quite!!!) and this has 2 newly dead trees in it as well. It is good dry land with no water courses etc. I was hoping the dieback is because of wind scorch or increased light, and with a bit of luck time will tell, but I am worried! We poisoned because the 2 trees were approx 50cm dbh and vigourous with plenty of growing left in them, and the owner wishes to replant shrubs around but not bother with stump grinding. Belt and braces, but perhaps a step too far in this case. Interesting comments regarding the Ash, I'm not sure I'd be that brave!!! Certainly not with someone elses tree... Cheers for the comments, much appreciated.

Hello Not sure if this should be in tree health or not - if so, sorry in advance. I removed 2 green beech trees either side of a copper beech for a customer (all three are early mature 60-70 foot trees) a month ago, and poisoned the 2 stumps with a 20% Glyphosate mixture via cambium scoring and direct application. The trees were all growing within close proximity of each other (within 5 metres) so are well within each other's root plate area. The retained copper beech now seems to be suffering the effects of Glyphosate poisoning. Is it possible there are sub soil root grafts and the poison has translocated from the stumps into the retained tree, and if so, has anybody experienced this before? I have spoken to the Glyphos manufacturer's technical guy and he has never heard of this, and also went on to say that this type of stump treatment is commony used in forestry where this would be a massive problem if it is the case. I'm at a bit of a loss to come up with other factors - it looks exactly like a herbicide poisoning - and I am facing a potentially very angry customer. Any insight/advice/past experience would be most welcome!!! Cheers Dan