monkeybusiness

Ring Greenmech, speak to Jason. Their number will be on the serial number plate.

Yeah, I had this with a fella. I suspected his certificate might have been fake (lost the card but brought a copy of the certificate) - I called the NPTC to check up on the details and they couldn't tell me anything without talking to the lad because of data protection apparently (even though I had his name, candidate number, don etc and simply wanted a yes/no as to the legitimacy of his documents). I'm then in an awkward position - do I let him know that I think he might be a liar as I need him to talk to the NPTC in order for them to talk to me?! I binned him off instead, he wasn't much cop and the NPTC's position forced my hand a bit instead of giving me the opportunity to give him an opportunity.

A mate has bought some sort of chain winch for the front of his tractor, runs off a hydraulic spool and is apparently really fast (can obviously be slowed down if necessary). The chain drops into a bucket below so there are no issues with bunching on the drum etc if pulling at strange angles. That setup of Eddie's is very nice too. Bob's suggestion would also do your job - the only problem with running the more traditional hydraulic winches can be cable bunching if not feeding straight onto the drum. If you look into hydraulic winches/motors remember to consider pressure as well as flow - I recently bought an ex mod hydraulic winch for the front of my tractor (I originally only needed a bit more front weight to balance the mulcher on the back). I have fantastic 'power beyond' load sensing hydraulics on the tractor, so incorrectly assumed that it would be more than adequate to run the winch... I have more than enough flow, but needed 300 bar (most tractors only deliver upto 180 bar I now know!). More expense followed with a dedicated pto pump and it is now a proper monster, but it ended up a dear old do!

Lgpeddie on here has done basically what you are describing, to run a pto forestry winch on a digger. It's probably somewhere in the show us your digger thread - I'd pm him for more info.

I've recently found a couple of great lads after placing an ad on Arbjobs. I have recruited on here in the past too.

Enjoy retirement Mac you lucky bugger - thanks a million for all of your incredibly patient advice over the years sir!!!

It's all to do with height off ground and depth of feed hopper, and whether you need a top or bottom (or both) stop bar. Not massively relevant if you are the only user and aren't too bothered by rules, but very important if you have other people using your machine. Google will supply the relevant info. J - I may have misread your post. The op discounted a complete system for £650 on cost grounds and I read your alternative as an equivalent suggestion for just over £200 (actually closer to £300 plus duty at current exchange rates in reality). I still think the complete retro fit system for £650 looks pretty good value.

I agree that he is right, but I also think the £650 isn't crazy money and in reality isn't a million miles away from the total overall cost of setting this up on a machine with no current stress control. You need to still have the manual spool valve in place to keep your safety stop working as manufactured (I'm assuming it is currently to HSE spec). Electro-hydraulic spool valves aren't particularly cheap, there will be duty and carriage to pay on the stress control unit itself (it does look a good unit and very good value though, I agree), you will need some hoses/fixings etc making up, and you may well need someone to plumb it all in for you if you aren't hydraulically confident/competent. It does look a decent unit though, but £200 is not realistic IMO.

Not for £200 though!

Auto reverse is a lot more complicated than that though...

Mint!

2.5 tonne (ish) on a trailer - we tow ours with Iveco Daily, Ford Ranger and Toyota Dyna no probs. Transformed the way we work to be honest - there aren't many places you can't get to with a Safetrak (which is certainly not the case with the majority of tracked chippers IME). That one Redwood are selling is a bargain!

Redwood are selling a Greenmech 1928 Safetrak on eBay at the moment - it looks good condition/value for the price IMO.

Cheshire pal.

I'm potentially in the market for a new 5 tonne machine and am a bit overwhelmed by choice tbh. I want zero tailswing and will need to be able to use a rotating grab - has anyone got any advice over which manufacturer to look at over and above others? There's a CAT dealer on my doorstep but I haven't seen much talk of there smaller machines in this thread (other than Mr Blair's of course!). Eddie - you don't seem occasionally underwhelmed with new Kubotas somehow compared to their older models - is that something I should worry about? Takeuchi seem good value (which surprised me) - are they an old model now? Does anyone know anything about Case? Any/all advice gratefully received here - I'm all ears!!

Get it working first. If the bearings were on their way out any movement between the no stress sensor and the toothed wheel it reads from could throw the stress control out. I had an entec no stress box repaired by a local washing machine repair shop (no longer trading unfortunately) years ago - if it is faulty find a knowledgable geek who is handy with a soldering iron and knows the difference between diodes and resistors!

A recently deceased tranny? You guys are into some really specialist shistos, probably not the right content for this forum tbh....

Supposed to be mechanically very good, but I'm put off by the single rear wheel and the fact that I've never seen one that wasn't rusty at 3 years old.

So does this new helmet still have the little screws holding the ear defenders on? The answer to this question will ultimately determine whether I consider buying these helmets or not. You are quite correct that daily checks are essential - this is no excuse for poor design though.

I'd take a couple of hundred as a trial at that price Bob! Not bothered about sharpening them if that's what they cost tbh...

How much for a set of hammers for the Berti in your advert?

I smashed one of those pulleys off an entec in my younger ham fisted days - don't tap it too hard... Tighten the grub screws into the removal holes and give it a bit of tappy tappy (ideally with a copper faced mallet). If it still won't budge heat the outer pulley a bit.

Best. Post. Ever!!!!

Greenmech have always been incredibly helpful and patient with me over the years. I've run a variety of their machines (all purchased second hand) and have learned my way around them pretty competently with the assistance of Mac and Jason down the phone. Before knocking their build quality, come and have a look at my 2005 1928 Safetrak. I bought it off a railway contractor 5 years ago showing 50hrs (it had just had a new computer and a brand new engine fitted, but looking at the condition of it at the time I would guess it had done at least 2000 hard hours on the railways prior to my ownership, not the easiest environment on a machine). The clock has just gone over 2000 hours with me, and we work the machine hard on utility and site clearance work. Other than routine maintenance (which I am anal about to be fair) the chipper has been fantastic, and I will be surprised if it's not good for another 2000 hours. I doubt there are many other 11 year old hard worked front line chippers out there still earning a living that are on 4000 hours plus. Everyone keeps harping on about Forst and I think they look pretty good - however, every single person that I have spoken to who owns one has had recurring problems (paint being one of the worst issues). Redwood have apparently been very good in terms of backup to their credit. I'm also aware of at least 3 TW230s that are suffering from fatigue/cracking. Those are a very good machine, but I'm not sure they have enough metal in them (as a result of the 750kg ceiling) to last very long. Woodchippers work in an extremely harsh environment, subjected to vibration/abrasion/impact/temperature fluctuations/road salt/intermittent and uneven loading on the flywheels/blades/engines etc. They are dragged along at high speeds immediately in the slipstream of tow vehicles that spray mud/stones/salt straight at them in all weather conditions. It's amazing that they last 5 minutes really, and probably forgivable if they lose their lustre after a couple of years IMO.

I'd buy him a new bar and chain. He was good enough to lend you his saw, now it's bent. You used it to earn money and he has come away with nothing other than hassle and expense after doing you a favour. Put it down to experience.