monkeybusiness

Denso 8971128652 is the OE part fitted by Isuzu - I've only got a reconditioned original on the shelf here (hence knowing the part number!) so can't find you the aftermarket make/model. A decent auto electrician will be able to match this part number though.

I've had them from local autoelectricians before now (around £100 ish iirc) and always keep one (either new or reconditioned) on the shelf as they are prone to failure - you can't easily move a safetrac if the starter motor is toast! They burn out when people turn the key when there is material jamming the flywheel - usually as a result of shutting the machine down with the feed bar set to chip and material still in the feed hopper. Always select stop or reverse before shutting down the 1928s as the stress control solenoid opens as soon as you deenergise it when you turn the key off, and the rollers subsequently turn a bit. If it helps in your search, the Isuzu engine in these is a 4LE (it will be a 4LE1 or 4LE2 etc etc - they all have the same starters as far as I know) also fitted in some JCBs I believe.

I bought their last stock radiator 18 months ago...

Definitely make sure your belts aren't slipping then. I'm not up to speed on the TW machines any more but seem to recall the stress control measuring the speed of the actual flywheel shaft. If your belts are slipping (they might be tight but worn) the flywheel slows very easily under load, but the engine doesn't lose revs so sounds like it isn't actually working very hard.

Is it the correct stress control unit - they are just a speed sensor counting teeth on a passing cog. If it is set up for the wrong number of teeth it won't work correctly. Also, is the machine reaching full revs (throttle working correctly/fuel supply good)?

It's an Isuzu engine in those, and the radiator isn't made by/for Isuzu. If you want a new one I think you'll struggle to source one anywhere other than GM, as I'm pretty sure they are made specifically for them. As PeteB says, some costs are what they are. If the recore is similar money to a brand new rad I think I'd be going down the new route personally!

1928 radiators are massive - I'd imagine a recore would've dear. I've had one cleaned out professionally by a radiator company in Wrexham (I'd had many attempts myself and actually took it in to them for a re-core, but they took the decision to clean it out instead). It was (and still is) perfect afterwards, but they wouldn't tell me how they do it!!

Ha ha - too slow!

Try these guys - MWMAC on 01597810306. They seem to have tractor/ATV etc trainers and assessors nationwide, and they are the right money.

Cheers, knew I couldn't spell!

I agree on both counts. Every pair of Haix that I have bought over the past 8 years has done the same (for myself and employees). Very comfortable, but a flawed design unfortunately. We haven't had any similar problems with Arbortek or Meindle (both probably spelt wrong!)

I know of 3 within a mile of each other in South Cheshire too.

Search Dean Lofthouse on here's posts. He did a full thread on replacing bearings on a Timberwolf 150 (I think, or equivalent Entec). He knows his onions with mechanics and his thread is full of really helpful info. All the Timberwolfs and Entecs are pretty much the same and it will give you a brilliant reference point.

My two cents worth re the Engcon/tiltrotator debate. I've just ordered a Rototilt for my 6 tonner - make sure you speak directly to all of the main players (Tim at Rototilt, Pat at Steelwrist, John Craig if you are looking at Engcon (he's a dealer himself, not part of Engcon UK who weren't amazingly helpful IME) and Daniel at SMP. I got nowhere fast trying to get any sort of useful information from any machinery dealers, even one who are actually Engcon agents. If you are ordering a new machine start from scratch with a Scandinavian hitch and buckets - try ordering this from a UK machinery dealer as part of a package and you might as well be talking Swedish as they genuinely don't understand the tilt rotator market at all. I ordered my Quickhitch from SMP, got the buckets made by a firm called Scotts in Northern Ireland, and as stated have just settled on a Rototilt after a good look at all options at Hillhead. There can be wild differences in price for equivalent models and it would be very easy to be upsold extras that aren't required for your application. I didn't buy on price in the end, but I saved significantly over equivalent offerings from other manufacturers (and saved literally thousands over the package Engcon UK and one of their dealers would have sold me/insisted was what I needed). I can't wait for it to be delivered/installed now, so I can try and learn how to dig round holes!!! If you want a load of info have a good read through the ceforum - Eddie has a couple of fantastic threads on there that are a mine of useful info (including great contributions from other tiltrotator users).

Make sure everything is tight too - you don't want any movement at all on those bolts.

Balls - you'd make my life/decision much easier if you said it wasn't as good as you first thought! Cheers for the reply, glad you're happy with it!

Steve - I'm seriously toying with swapping my old shape D40 Navara for the new one like yours (a dealer has offered me a pretty good px offer). I am really happy with my current truck and am only considering swapping as they've offered me a decent lump for it, and it is only going to depreciate heavily from now on. Is the new one better all-round in your opinion? Are you glad you swapped? Is there anything that you aren't happy with now you've lived with it for a few months? Sorry for all the questions!

Nice to hear you Paul, all good here thanks for asking (crazy busy, which is a good problem to have!). One of these days I will pull my finger out and get AA approved (if only to drive down my insurance even further)!

I've been insured with Trust, then Arborisk (only moved due to better price at time of renewal, hadn't made a claim with Trust so can't comment on their claims handling). Arborisk were great when I had to unfortunately make a claim for a stolen chipper earlier this year - they paid out quickly with no issues. However, my renewal subsequently doubled (I expected it to go up but thought that was a bit strong!) so have now moved to Lycetts and saved approx £3k. Lycetts were cheapest out of those 3 for me, but they are all decent competitive firms from what I can tell.

It's all about pressure. You need to know what pressure your pump delivers and match that to the winch's motor. Flow is less important - the more flow, the faster your winch will be though. If your pump doesn't deliver the required pressure the winch won't pull the skin off a rice pudding - if it has the correct pressure but limited flow then it will pull the winch's rated capacity but it might be very slow.

Hydraulic would be the best option for constant duty. We've not managed to kill the winchmax electric winches which is the only reason I would recommend them - we did kill a much more expensive Warn though. If budget isn't an issue then definitely go hydraulic.

Once you have one fitted you find multiple uses for them. Dead handy attachment.

Yes, but constant use will still kill a poor battery, engine running or not. Using them without the engine running is only for emergency use as they will flatten even a good battery in no time. Greenmech offer electric winches as a factory fit option - they are sometimes a requirement on railway jobs where a dead chipper has to be quickly self-recoverable off a railway track. They now also offer a 12v hydraulic power pack to allow the tracking function to continue to operate for short periods of time without the need for the engine to be operating (I believe Forst also offer something similar) for the same reason. As mentioned, chipper winches are great for pulling over back-leaners etc, particularly with a radio remote control as the cutter can also control the winch.

They're good, but will quickly kill a weak battery. We've only ever burned out a Warn - these cheap Winchmax jobbies haven't given up yet (and have had a lot of constant abuse). Hydraulic would be better for constant duty but are no good for self recovery with a dead engine, and are more expensive/complex to fit in the first place.

Yeah - the winchmax come with everything in the box. Depending on where your chipper battery is you may need longer battery leads making up (any auto electrician will be able to supply you the cables with correctly crimped terminals). Just attach positive direct to positive battery terminal and negative direct to negative battery terminal. If you want to include an isolator make sure you get as heavy duty as possible - the ones with the red plastic key can melt if you are doing a lot of winching... The only issue we have ever had is with a bad earth on the little earth wire that comes out of the control/solenoid box - this stops everything working and give the impression that the winch is goosed.