shillo

ok, negatives. it will lift 600kg, but its very sketchy if you turn or are on uneven ground with that weight on. it articulates but does not oscillate (i think thats the right word. doesn't twist) so can end up with only 2 wheels on the ground and gripping often. also when balance does change, the wheel off ground can come down with a fair bump, not a problem unless you have a load on! have to throttle up to move quickly, but have to remember to throttle back to move load or movement is very rapid and jerky. a lot of plastic covers does make you have to think how to secure it to trailer. it does have proper tie down points at very front and very back but if trailer is only just long enough you can't use them appropriately. Im just about to try the ratchet strap car wheel fixing method, i.e. one on each wheel. wheel motors are slightly under powered for my liking. (slows down a bit on steep ground.) attachments are expensive compared to pto equipment. Looks like a toy! All this aside it is a great tool, works well for my business, saves my back!

Right behind you bro! i also must put the new number plate on my chipper. the plate on it at the mo is from 2 trucks ago!! Also light socket need replacing, as only one side works unless you apply slight downward pressure, awkward at 60mph!

There are loads of posts on here about them, just do a search for avant or mini loader or skid steer. I have put on loads of pics of my 420, there is also loads of stuff on youtube. Don't expect it to grip like your tractor or like a skid steer. But if you don't want to make a mess they are great.

wish i had too!

Really?? Have you driven a compact tractor recently? one thing they are not, is slow. I also recon your skid steer would out lift a small compact in weight but not height. model dependant obviously. I very nearly went for a compact tractor loader. the only reason i didn't go for it was the length of it, i would have had to of bought a longer trailer. The weights were similar in the size i was looking at, unless you wanted to add a rear counterbalance weight to tractor which made it a bit heavier and longer again. i was comparing the avant 420, ford 1220. and boxer skid steer. I went down the Avant route. All these machines have there uses and each comes into its own in certain specific tasks, you just have to try to weigh up what sort of work you do the most of. I'm pleased with my choice because i do a lot of tight access garden work. skid steer would just make too much mess. However today we were in a wood where my avant would not be able to manoeuvre well (lack of grip) but a skid steer would have been perfect You pays your money and take your chances!

Yes i agree not enough hook, probably due to me not filing down rakers enough, holding file too high. Thats due to me being a bit lazy trying to sort out cutters so that the saw would cut in a straight line which was my primary problem. I managed to pinch in the rails today and got the saw cutting well again, i used the mole grip idea which worked well. i still don't think the rails were splayed i think the rail was worn on the inside. I don't think this fix will last long thanks for all the suggestions guys

Thanks Rob my chain looks like its wearing the same as your second picture, wearing on the bottom of the tie strap, i think thats what its called, the bit with oregon on it. The drive links look fine to me. I will have a better look at the drive sprocket and nose sprocket. The bar certainly hasn't done anywhere near as much work as my 30'' stihl bar on my 660, and i haven't had any problem with that bar. Guessing these bars are just subject to more stress.

Yes the depth id a good 8mm. This is probably the first time I've given the bar a good dressing. Going to try a good hammering as prescribed by spud! But as he said i can't imagine it being a long term fix. Looks like id better order a sugihara bar. £££ I certainly doesn't look like the rails are splayed, but do the inside of the rails wear?

Flippin heck, that was quick! I did try to see how much wobble there is and there was a bit more wobble in the middle of the bar. If you hold a straight edge up the side of the bar as per oregon bar maintenance instruction, and check for chain deviation (wobble) the chain wobbles way too much along the whole length of the bar is it possible to un splay rails? What causes splaying? I've never had it happen to me before on any other bar?

Driving me bonkers. Bar seams straight Rails are even and at right angle, checked with square Chain is sharp, cutters same length, checked with calipers Depth gauges right Bar not done much work. As soon as the bar get to bar length stuff it turns sharp and won't cut any more. As you can see from the pics, hopefully, i filed the rails flat and dressed, not that they noticeably bad to start with. tried the saw again. still no good, took bar and chain off again and one side of the rail seams like its been battered (first pic) and its formed bit of a burr already after 20seconds cutting. It also seams to be wearing the bottom of the chain abnormally. This chain was new but I've tried re sharpening it so many times now thinking that it must be the chain that it now 1/4 worn. Same is happening with a new chain, so it must be the bar, Right?? but i can't see anything wrong with it. I don't think the rails are splayed, would that cause the problems I'm having? my 42'' bar and chain works fine Any help appreciated

I've been selling the same trailer full for £80

Stuff that! get a nail gun! great bit of kit! Tacwise coil nailer. 32mm to 64mm i got a box of 32mm 45mm and 64mm, probably 42 thousand nails! hopefully that will see me out! cheapest place i found for nails was prebena uk 40ish per box? job done!

there is a bute on the bay at the moment 2014 130 tipper. 35k to you!

just googled the 435 flywheel, and it think your right, all the pawls looks to be right angles, i would say both mine are bent in to closer to 45 degrees.

thanks guys both pawls work freely and seam to be both at the same angle when you look directly down on starter assembly. i wonder if they have both been bent inwards a bit?

trying to mend this for a farmer friend which i thought was an easy fix, replaced the starter pulley, put starter assembly back on machine, starter pawls engage but won't disengage? so the pull cord will not retract. Take bar & chain off, plug out. starter will engage and rotate freely but will rotate flywheel backwards to recoil starter rope. I'm sure I'm missing something simple?! any ideas? the second pic is the new pulley third pic is the knackerd old pulley

Netting, that sounds like a good idea. Thought there might have been a chemical solution that dissolved organic matter without damaging radiator

looks like cash is going to be the best option for me. thanks for the replies

What is the best way to ask for payment on ebay? Cleared funds before machine is released is common, great for seller but risky for buyer? Is cash on collection best? going to try selling my chipper on there as i got no interest on arbtrader.

Any body know of any easy way to clean a bunged up radiator on a chipper? my tunnissen doesn't have a pre screen filter so get bunged up easily. compressor does get some out but not all. Guess it gets like glue when its wet.

if you like rat shooting check out 'night vision rat shooting' on youtube.

i just bought a tacwise coil nailer. nail sizes from 32mm to 67mm. How have i managed soo long without one!!

yes i could but i need a 6foot fence, double sided fixed to it so i thought a proper bolt on plate would spread the load a better. Unfortunately i can't dig a decent hole right up close to the existing wall as the footings are 10'' under the surface and solid!

anyone come across a holder that will bolt to the side of a wall rather than the usual bolt on top of wall holders? i can't seam to find any on the net

Thats encouraging news. Thanks