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Alycidon

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Everything posted by Alycidon

  1. Talk to your insurer, the NFU may be the most helpfull in this situation. If they agree to insure your property with a home made stove inside that has not been signed off as safe to use then get that confirmed in writing and away you go. I would be very surprised indeed if any HETAS installer or building inspector would sign off a non CE marked stove as safe to use. By the time you have worked out cost of materials, time etc then I would be surprised if there is a lot to be saved. A
  2. Its now been pulled, I thinks thats at least 3 of these cons on processors recently. A
  3. Morso recommend newspaper, be unusual or a whole piece to go around the top baffle intact, thats about a 160 degree bend in most stoves. relight, yes kinding if you have decent embers, failing that rolled up newspaper with kindling on top. A
  4. As long as you have it in writing then you are covered, I also found NFU helpful in another situation recently. A
  5. Plug a computer system into the engine management ECU, that will show the settings and who set them up. Each machine leaves a fingerprint in the ECU of the last person to access it. Dont forget its the loss adjusters job to get the insurance company off the hook payment wise in the event of a claim, they are well aware of such things. Some of these tuning devices are external so fairly easy to spot, others are simply the existing ECU being re mapped. A
  6. I would be intrigued to hear what B&Q and garage forecourt MC averages were! I checked some from the former, over 40%. A
  7. Northern Ireland supply base leads to Balcas on pellets, they also have a big site in Russia. A
  8. You would need a fair old bit of sawdust to be worthwhile, when I looked at pelleting sawdust was compressed by a factor of 8, so a heap of sawdust will make a heap of brickets etc only 1/8th of the sawdust heap by volume, not actually done it myself so that might be wrong, it was what I read. I would think that Renewabal John would be best able to advise. A
  9. I get around !!. Actually I have a stove business and have a firewood side line. The beech etc that is about in the market at present is by and large fresh felled and will be far to wet to chop and sell this winter if you want customers coming back for more. Be OK for next winter though. A
  10. I have had 200 and TD5 and driven a 300 for a while. I prefer the TD5 although the 200 was the most reliable. Be aware that both my 200 and TD5 required replacement fuel injectors at 180,000 miles. Might be worth thinking about finding a set for your TD5 from a write off etc,( new ones are 250/300 each.) and having them fitted at the same time as the remap. Be aware though that this remap may well invalidate your insurance unless you make your insurer aware of it. A
  11. Nick Channor currently has some beech I believe, I had 3 loads of ash/sycamore mainly from him recently, good stuff, ideal for processor. The 17 Hornet is still going well, cured that case neck split issue with annealing. A
  12. I heard of an old lady who complained her stove did not work properly, engineers were called in, when asking where she kept her wood she told them, the pond. She floated it in her pond for a couple of weeks, otherwise she said it burnt to quick !!!. A
  13. As others have said log it and sell it. I apprecaite that I am not first in the queue but if it becomes for sale as it lays and those before me are not interested then I would consider buying it. I am off M1 J18 so about 30 mins from Coventry, would use an IFW trailer and Disco to shift it. Thanks A
  14. I am 100% soft so far this season, no complaints at all, in fact one repeat guy today said he would not buy hard again as this burns far better and gives more heat, it does all be it for a shorter period. A
  15. Problem you have supplying wholesale is 20% Vat rate instead of 5% direct to joe public. Providing your retailer is VAt registered that is no issue at all. He reclaims the 20% he paid and pays the 5% he collects. A
  16. I load them with a teleporter on pallets then unload with a pump truck, roll them down the tailgate and into the customers garage, they love it. So far this winter 90% of my wood sales have been in 1 cu m bags, I was going to buy a tipper for bulk stuff but am now having second thoughts. The only down side is thats its a real squeeze to get 2 pallets and a pump truck into a GD85 IFW trailer. A 10 foot would be far better and maybe thats the way to go. Tippers being higher even with long ramps may lead to an excessively steep unload ramp. Ball hitches on 4x4s do have weight limits, I think that the crane on the front of a trailer body may well take the weight OTT when loaded, looks a nice idea though. Perhaps a military jaw hitch would be better. A
  17. Anyone thats driven a tractor on the road for some time has come accross this. Problem is finding somewhere safe every 1/2 mile or so on a busy road and if you have a widish implement then finding a space that is wide enough to take that implement. Most awkward thing I used to drive commonly was a close coupled bale trailer with a fore end loader on the front of the tractor and a flat 8 bale grab on the front of that. Overhang from the front axle was in the region of 14 feet. You did not want to be waving that around and the close coupled trailer meant you could not turn tight even if you wanted to. 8 courses of bales meant I was going nowhere but straight ahead. Cut my teeth on a Dexta, lovelly little tractor. A
  18. Yep, called wayleave, its either so much per year OR a larger one off payment when the pole is erected.
  19. I have seen a flat grid made up of metal bars about 2 inches apart, set in an incline the logs slide down the bars the crap falls through. Bark comes off when the wood dries, a tumbler wont fetch that off as its still green when you process it. A
  20. Hakki Pilke 60 Firewood Processor PTO driven | eBay

     

    Looks pretty worn out to me, 3.3k seems a lot for it.

  21. Buy a tipper trailer and hang it behind Defender. A
  22. I would hope that most here are selling that at £80 plus if ready to burn. That was indeed a good deal for the buyer. A
  23. And the optimum word is GREEN, not enough heat to burn the crerosote. A
  24. I have used a barn with 3 closed sides and one open long side, no problems with mould to date. Had about 110 cube of soft in one heap and about 40 of hard in another seperated by a wall of arb bags. Putting in at about 27%-30%. Bulk heap does not seem to dry as fast as arb bags, took some out last night at about 19%, far damper than I would like but being soft it burns well. A
  25. Education, education, education. Tell them that the Scandinavians burn 90% soft wood, if their climate hard woods are pretty scarce. Tell them that Morso use Pine to test for overfiring as it burns hotter than most other wood. Problem is that softwood spits, in a stove that is no problem as the doors are shut, it is also alleged to put tars in the flue, the reason for this is that soft woods burns at a higher mc than hardwood, but unless a certain temp is reached within the fire the creosote within the wood will not combust. Make sure you wood is dry, no wetter than 18% and you will be fine, it will burn like hell. I have a guy that is currently mixed my supadry softwood with wetter wood from a DIY shed. I have taken him a bit of my to wet to sell hardwood ( around 20%) to try. A

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