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Tom D

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Everything posted by Tom D

  1. Get NFU to put it on your tractor policy as an implement, My road tow chipper is insured that way, you get much better cover and its cheaper.
  2. Tom D

    big beech td

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ffwSqV0EEE]YouTube - Big Beech tree fell[/ame]
  3. Thought I'd put them in here, general tree pics moves so fast I can never find them when I want to:001_smile: Here's some of andrew taking the half dead head out of an old lime, a bit of veteran style topping.
  4. If it weren't fot the fact that it appears to be growing on a beech log I'h have said heterobasidion annosum. I haven't a clue otherwise.
  5. I don't have that harness rob, but that does look like it may be putting pressure on the stiching on the bridge.
  6. i made crab apple vodka last year, its great for cooking with, slop a bit in any apple pudding:thumbup:
  7. I find that using a snaphook as opposed to a krab allows you to open the hook and locate the ring one handed.
  8. https://www.gustharts.com/Products/Arborist%20Equipment/Arborist%20Climbing%20Equipment/Accessories/Product/Petzl%20Express%20Quickdraw/ Sorry for the delay BTW
  9. This is a good hitch if you don't like the VT climbing style but still prefer the thrust and push "prussic" style ascent. However because slack can be tended one handed without the need for a pulley you can use either method. The knut finish keeps the hitch relatively compact and gives you a good tail of rope to pull when ascending, it is much easier to advance up the line than either a blakes of prussic and breaks much more easily too when decending. We use it on our short ropes, we have hitch climbers and vt's on our main ropes. If you can't get on with the HC or VT and keep coming back to the prussik or blakes, try this, its miles better:001_smile: Just to be sure, its three wraps and two twists with one leg then going streight to the krab and the other forming a half hitch around the main line and the first leg. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxiQcO7-H1s]YouTube - Video039.mp4[/ame] This is that mod Rich
  10. cheers, If I get the job I'd be interested.
  11. They make some quality cordless tools, but they're pricey. This low price suggests its a cheap crappy saw. You get what you pay for IME. The problem with globalisation is that when a tool company gets a good rep another one buys it and starts sticking their logo on any old crap. Its probably not made by Hitachi.
  12. Anyone selling a grab and rotator? If I get the job I'll buy a second hand one and adapt it for the 360.
  13. The only issue with size is that a smaller one will be cheaper, there would be no extraction, the site looks like nuke went off, 50% of the trees are on their sides and have re grown 20 - 30 foot tops from the side branches. we would be burning most of it as its not going to be much good for anything else. The place has seen no management for at least 20 years. The site is a wet hole so any wheeled machines would be out of the question. I will compare prices of machines and see how much dearer a bigger one would be.
  14. Thanks for the replies, I have some experience wit these machines Tom, just not for tree work, the site is big so no problems with access. I am more interested in wether the thumb and bucket is a worthwhile option, I was thinking that trying to make nice stacks with it could be a pita.
  15. I am pricing up an excavator for a forestry job, windblown conifers to clear, I am planning on hireing a machine. my questions for those who have experience of using such tools are. Do I go for a 7 or a 13 tonner or somewhere in between? As there will be some ditching work and road making to do, do I get a machine piped for a grab and rotator and buy one of my own second hand, (I will be unlikely to get one on hire) or do I just get a machine with a thumb? Cheers
  16. I often post annonymously...usualy this sort of thing: Oh, you mean on the internet? no, I never post annonymously:blushing:
  17. I went self employed with under 2 years experience, and much of that was ground work. However I was only doing my own jobs, I wouldn't have had the confidence or ability to go somewhere else as a subby climber. If your income depends on getting the job done you'll soon get good. however finding subby work with so little experience would be hard I reckon.
  18. I had a digital moisture meter, iit was too unreliable to be of any real use, check yours by testing some logs, then weighing them. dry them out in a cool oven or on a radiator and then weigh them again. 12%logs will not absorb moisture indoors, most of your furniture will be less than 5% moisture, unless you live in a cave. However you will only get logs down to 12% if you kiln dry them as others have said. Mine is all in the 18-25% range and I get a lot of positive comment, You have to remember that some species will be 60% moisture or higher when cut and yes green ash will burn but not very well.
  19. Tom D

    wheeeeee

    This is more like it:001_smile: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7q8Z4FMGgU]YouTube - Duitser op draaimolen krijgt vliegles [Dumpert][/ame]

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