Rob D

Put your postcode up and then pictures of the tree with details of access etc. If you're skint just ask for a quote to get all the wood on the ground for yourself to clear up. Doing it yourself from a ladder with not having a clue what you're doing is probably a bit silly isn't it.

4.45.... average after 3

Heard of it and used it.... Seems to work like the other ointments and salves but didn't stand out too much compared to them IMO. But different strokes for different folks

That's really good work

That is fantastic wood - thanks for putting the pics up as I've never seen any of that before. Good stuff!

Nice timber that! £1,000-00 is for a table and two benches.... not just a table. Where abouts are you based? If you ever have stuff like walnut, yew, labernum with shake or large knots and find it difficult to sell then I may be interested as I can work around these. How much do you get per cubic foot for good quality walnut as in the pics you have here?

I charge £60-00 for a bulk builders bag of hardwood and tell people it is just under a cubic yard. But I will be switching next year to cubic meter fully vented bags as the logs in the bottom of the dumpy bags (on a few) have gone mouldy. I'm getting loads of return customers from last year as well as plenty of new ones. The local woodburning center reccommends my logs and uses them themselves. I think the key for the log trade is to build a customer base. They then have had your logs, know how much they use and saves phone time.

Great work with a chainsaw.... never tried making a bowl before... Plum ones are lovely colours.

Great vid and ditto others... what a handy set up to have.

I know what you're saying in that the walnut above does contain a lot of sapwood. But how much could you get from a woodturner? I would sell a lot more timber to woodturners but to be honest you don't seem to be able to sell for much more than firewood prices. The wide band of sapwood will contrast nicely with the heartwood. If you can plank it yourself, dry it yourself and then make it into a rustic table and bench set you will have something you can sell for £1,000-00 quite easily. The pieces without colour can be used for the legs. And you'll be able to get 2 or 3 sets out of the above. And it's very rare to see furniture made out of solid 2" English walnut. So it should be easy to sell.

All private work is cheque or cash on satisfactory finish of job. I find most people expect this and can always write out an invoice on the day. Why wait 30 days and make more posting, paperwork and chasing? - as well as compromising your cash flow. Obviously totally different with commercial where it's invoice then 30 days.

I've been finding the same - the bottom layer or so is moldy even though the bags have been stored in the polytunnel all summer. Even worse if the bagging was done in the rain.... So I'm going to switch over to the posh vented ones and charge a £5 deposit on them. When they're stacked on a pallet I reckon that will make a huge difference.

Ditto on all the above... if it's well seasoned it will burn well. And some softwoods can be better than some of the hardwoods IMO. It never fails to tickle me when people say the last lot of wood they had delivered was a 'bad load'. No wood is bad it's just whether it is dry or not.

Really in the polytunnel the stack also wants to be hidden from direct sunlight. And putting freshly sawn timber in there in the middle of summer would cause problems. Ideally you want to stack sawn stickered timber in there during Nov onwards. Then when summer comes the timber will be ready for the higher temperatures and this will dry it faster. I'll be making a proper solar kiln within the polytunnel soon and will be posting pics.

That's an excellent site and I think you did very well pricewise. Nice and clear and uncluttered. My only comment would be that it must use a lot of time to handball all the wood off - I bought a small 12 volt swing crane of the dreaded ebay and just takes a minute or 2 to swing the bags off. Most of the customers bring them back....

I'm sure it'll burn fine when it's dry. But labernum is a pretty rare timber and you would have got a lot more money for it in the round... If you get any larger sized ones let me know...

As has been already said he wants invoices from you so he can use it as tax relief. But really if he was your only employer then it is his responsibility to pay you through the PAYE. You have nothing to worry about as these days the employer has far more responsibilities than you. I would make notes of when you have any contact with him, the dates and times, what was said by each party and then go to the citizens advice beaureau. Look around for someone else to work for as there are much better employers around than this fellow.

Sanding is where most of the work is IMO. I now use angle grinders to get the saw marks out of wood (with a range of different grits) and finish with a makita orbital sander. Have used belt sanders in the past but found them to be too slow...

Cheers Phil. When I get back from hols I'll be doing much more vids and furniture making.....

The wood was sealed using Shellac sanding sealer and then given a liquid wax finish. The saw in the vid is an MS880 with a 36" bar.

That's a lovely bit of timber there... Wish i had a bit of yew like that I was wondering when you mentioned it before why you didn't want to mill it yourself as yew is pretty much some of the best timber you can have The timber will not dry in the round and what you really want to do is square the ends nicely and then seal them with something like pva glue or similar. Then mill them as soon as you can, get them under cover, stickered up and forget them for a while. For the spacing stickers use dry softwood as you have to be careful of staining the planks. alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill After stacking I am now using large ratchet straps to bind the whole stack together - this keeps the wood straight as it drys. Every couple of weeks I tweak them a bit tighter as the wood shrinks. I usually also reseal the ends a few times as you'll find this will really help to stop end splitting. I can always do you a longer handle and rail set for your alaskan - you don't have to buy a whole larger mill.

That's brilliant Tommer :lol:You sort of out manoevered yourself with that one!!

Nasty Mozza - just goes to show doesn't it that you never know what's round the corner... I did a really tricky eucalyptus reduction - over power lines and a minor road - several weeks ago.... went fine even though it was really leggy and the wind was strong...... Got back to the yard and a mate pulls up... I get out and sort of go to shut the door of the truck behind me and caught my finger in the door! Minor fracture! Pales in comparison with your wound but it does make you wonder if someone up there is having a right good chuckle :lol: