skyhuck

Why are people comparing this to "chippers"??? This is a "shredder" not a chipper. Chippers are generally better than shredders for tree work, IMO.

Judging by the damage an 020 exhausts can do to them I would say NO.

Ah!! sorry, so that is pretty much the same as burning on site, I was thinking the chip went for mulch etc.

I'm pretty sure a some beetle will survive a trip through the chipper.

So you can transport chipped bark???????? Its little wonder these disease controls have no effect

Been working on my mog today and will be continuing tomorrow, then off for two weeks,but I will be doing the odd bit in the yard if the mood takes me.

Your missing my point. Each individual situation is different, trying to give instruction in something that has such inherent danger is just bonkers, sure people may do it, but only when they feel they have the relevant experience, skill and the situation is right. Its a bit like free climbing, plenty do it, but no one recommends it.

Totally agree The main problem I see with this vid is the fact that the OP is trying to suggest this is good practise, safe and can be taught. IMO, an experienced cutter will do some "unorthodox" stuff from time to time, he will have the skill and experience to do so safely, reading each situation individually, BUT they surly would not want it videoed and shown to others as recommended technique?? I'm certain I wouldn't.

http://www.environment-agency.gov.uk/static/documents/Business/D7_exemption.pdf What can’t I do? You can’t: • burn types of waste other than those listed below in What wastes can be used under this exemption? • bring waste from elsewhere to burn. • burn treated wood wastes, e.g. treated pallets, wooden door frames. • use this exemption to burn waste in an incinerator for disposal. See Related exemptions. • use this exemption to burn waste in a boiler to produce heat and power. See Related exemptions.

Round here some councils no longer collect green waste through the winter, only through the grass cutting season.

Would be very simple to have a known weight, check the scales with that and always add a few extra few logs to make sure your on the safe side of the weight.

I guess you have cavity walls, so probably very different to my home.

In the past you were selling to life long wood burners who knew the score, today there too many new to burning wood, with very little knowledge, but think they know it all.

Not necessarily, my farmer neighbour has a weigh scale on his front loader, so he could weigh each bucket load when loading. Coal merchants simply weigh each sack as its loaded. There's no idea way of buying fire wood, volume is easiest, but I'd much sooner have a cube of Beech, over a cube of birch.

Yes you can!! In fact if the timber is dry weight is by far the best way to buy. Weight for weight all timber gives petty much the same KWH's of heat, so a dry Oak log that weighs twice the weight of a dry pop log will give twice the heat or burn for twice as long.

6 months for climbing, 12 months for rigging.

Not sure about that, where is that water coming from?? When we moved into this house (10 years ago), it was very,very damp. It have never been heated properly. It has solid walls with no cavities, these walls were sopping wet all the way through, when it rained the water was just pulled in by capillary attraction. I heated the house 24/7 for over 3 years, this dried the walls to a point where when it rains the water only penetrates the first few inches of the walls and then in dry weather the water goes back out side. Our house is probably dry for the first time in its 200 year history, because of being heated. If I had used a dehumidifier I think it would have just kept drawing more water through the walls.

The only time you are going to have a problem is if an equipment failure caused an accident that lead to a claim. IME, our equipment has a huge safety factor built into it, our climbing ropes have a breaking strain of over 3 tonnes, I've used old ones to pull trucks out of fields. If you inspected your own equipment regularly, you need to be pretty thick to not spot a defect that is genuinely dangerous. In 20 years I've never come across an accident caused by equipment failure. Of cause if you have employees, you have a legal duty of care over those employees and getting in a more qualified person than yourself to check their gear may be a good idea, but I honestly think most of us are more than capable of knowing whats safe and whats not and would the money spent on inspections not be better spent on new gear?? We were told some year ago that trees had to be inspected by a qualified professional, but when it went to court the judge felt that a person with years of experience, but no qualifications was quite acceptable when it came to annual inspections. Judges are not as stupid as people seem to think.

Looks like a straight fell towards the camera to me.

There are some pics of it on this thread, the main limit to the size of the pieces I burn is my ability to lift them. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/4420-outdoor-wood-boilers.html

150KW Ruffle boiler, running 16 rads and hot water, large 4 bedroomed converted stable, very old, no insulation, single glassed, and draughty, but lovely and warm, with no damp. Using around 4 to 5 tonnes of green timber per week, not cut or split, if I can lift it, it goes on.

Had complaints today from my Mrs, house is too hot

I was thinking more "last of the summer wine"

Its perfectly legal to burn up to 10 tonnes a day on the site where it was was cut, however its not lawful to take any amount to another site and burn it there, without the required permit from the EA.

But illegal.