Brushcutter
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Everything posted by Brushcutter
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Milwaukee do a cordless compressor. Surely the purchase of this will allow the cleaning of saws in fields, workshop and on the tailgates of pickup trucks.
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Stihl ms400 the most underrated saw in the Stihl lineup. I'd have one over the 562xp.
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Most trees in the UK can be done with a 15" bar. When training beginners and people who know a lot less than they think they struggle to get round a 15" bar in a timely manor achieving an accurate sharpen. There is also a lot to cover on a chainsaw course so spending hours sharpening huge chains on knackered saws the boss sent for some professional maintenance is really a waste of time.
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On a side note are house insurance, national insurance, health insurance and vehicle insurance all.part.of the same insurance racket? I know volcano insurance is legit. Asking for a friend.
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Up until recently the Stihl one was over 100 quid cheaper. I really wanted the husky one but at nearly 850 with the vat from some suppliers and an unknown delivery date I nearly got the Stihl. -
Thank you.
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When do you think the really overpriced rear handle one will be available?
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Best engine size and bar length for all round use
Brushcutter replied to Elliott.F's topic in Chainsaws
Over the years I've had may set ups. Depending on what I am doing. The 50cc saw with a 13" or 15" bar is my go to and has been for many many years. If I'm doing slightly bigger stuff I tend to go for a 60cc saw with an 18" bar. This covers most situations. If I was to pick one id just have a 50cc.saw with bars from 13 15 and 18 inch bars. If I could take two I'd have a 70cc with and 18 and 24 inch bars. I've always had husky saws but if you wanted one saw I'd be tempted by the ms400. -
Seems the right sort of money. Use to use one a bit bigger than that. Are you going to run it 3 phase or swap it to 240
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Mechanised Flail / hedgecutting cost- how do you charge
Brushcutter replied to Jamie edwards's topic in Business Management
Mcconel power trim I think it is called. It has 4 circular saws in a row and the biggest one will do up to 6" You will need a bit tractor to put it on. There are dealerships that have them in their hire fleets. You do need to be a good operator to make it work well. -
Mechanised Flail / hedgecutting cost- how do you charge
Brushcutter replied to Jamie edwards's topic in Business Management
4m to 1,8m is quite a reduction. If any of the growth is over about 3" the flail will make a big mess of it so you maybe better off with a saw blade rather than a flail. I normally flail with a baby flail on 100hp tractor and that is a 5m reach flail so you are already looking at quite the tractor flail set up to do it. If you don't have cab glass on the avsnts make sure you have some operator protection because the flails throw stuff everywhere including in the cab. -
I think the code 107 limits you to 8.2 ISH tonnes with a trailer on your c1+e. All depends on what the arb tipper is. If it is a 3,5 tonne vehicle everything is easy. If it is a 7.5 tonne then it will be more complicated. Not sure if being for private use will except you from insoections
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Tried Alpine Forestry. From memory they are Northampton based
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Short answer is yes you do.
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I think there is a lot of truth in that. As cool as a county is it lacks the versatility and comfort of a modern 6 cylinder tractors. Same with harvesters and forwarders.
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Hedge cutting is a rewarding yet soul destroying job. When your done it looks great but getting there is very hard work. If you are starting out then get a battery hedge cutter the vibrations are significantly reduced making it more pleasant and will give you some longevity doing the job. Really you need hand held and a long reach one. Normally just a rough cutting one will do but if you get some nice tight yew or layland a fine trimmer does make a difference. The tidy up is the hard bit. A tarp leaf blower rakes and brushes are a must. If your trimmings are leafy a low cut on a good mower can make a big job to easier.
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Two hundred pounds won't get you far these days I'm afraid. if you want to do your chainsaw course and plan to use your PPE on your course and working it's worth spending a bit to be comfortable. I teach a fair few chainsaw courses and one of the things that disadvantages people the most is being uncomfortable in the gear. Screwfix do a good range of Oregon chainsaw PPE. A pair of proper boots can be had for £100 now and a worth that over a pair of wellies. An pair of treehog chainsaw gloves and an Oregon hat and some Oregon trousers would come iñ about 30 quid or so over budget. It's also worth getting proper trousers rather than chaps as these can be problematic on some courses.
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Only cost in that I'm afraid. Nobody will do it for the firewood or the timber. There is a lot of work to get it down and then some serious kit to get the wood out. In short the cost of removal is more than it is worth You may get some money off if the timber stays on site. There is a video about a valuable walnut tree but I won't post it
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Chain oil is expensive now especially the oregon stuff. For many years I used Clark forest bio oil as it was required for the sites I worked on. Last few years I've been using husky mineral oil which can be had for about 60 quid for 20 litres.
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Any stem over 8mm between the 2nd and 3rd node. 1.5ml of neat product per stem. There is also a stem filling technique. Cut it off quiet high up and fill it up wirh diluted gylphosate within 15mins I have never done that technique.
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The best way to get rid of knotweed is to inject it. I use round up pro vantage 480 injected into the stem after flowering. As you are going to get to your maximum dose in one application if you want to hit it earlier spray it with something with a different active ingredient.
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Forestry winch recommendations
Brushcutter replied to Martin du Preez's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
The franagard doing it's thing. -
Forestry winch recommendations
Brushcutter replied to Martin du Preez's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
I have a franagard 6,5 tonne. It's fully manual which makes assisted felling a pain. I use iglands krpans and uniforests over the years. All have their pros and cons. I like the big krpans personally which radio remote and auto brake. Makes pre tensioning for felling very easy. Not used a franagard or an igland with a radio remote only the manual which is less good than a remote. Get the biggest you can afford. If you have a 6 tonne which and only put out half the cable you could have 3 to 4 tonnes of pull. They do constant pull winches now they get round the drum wire gearing. Tractor wise I've had a 9t winch on a 100hp tractor with a loader and grab. It was a bit lively sometimes. 9 tonne on 125hp tractor was really stable. 6.5 winch on a 75-100 is a solid base. -
Hi I have a Husqvarna 520iHE3 and the trigger is being a little twitchy. When ever you turn it on its side the throttle dies off to a about 50%. Turn it over and it runs fine. Seems to be some wear in the trigger wiggly it and works. anybody else had problems. Is this a new trigger job or a new board? cheers
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More cable on the drum gives longer reach but as you say the pulling power on full drum is reduced. The cable on the drum acts as a gear. I use a an extension cable with some chokers on it. Which the 25m extension in and then swap everything to the main cable. I must admit despite being tempted by a textile cable I've never made the switch from steel. I tried steel with a nylon core but hated it.
