Brushcutter

That is cheap. Almost worth just having one at that price for the one time you will really really need it. Much cheaper than the original one.

They are fantastic and even the 1.6t one can shift a lot. In an ideal world you would have both but if you had to have one then the winch is the more versatile bit of kit. Lot more set up with a winch and a lot more kit to lug around the woods but and its a big but, if you get a tree stuck and you don't have big kit on site a winch will get the tree down. Your tree jack wont. I can't think of a situation where the jack has done something the winch could do. However i've done more with the jack because of less set up. If you're doing a lot of timber above about 18" then just having the jack is great. Because of the slight height it applies the force at it makes work a bit easier than sticking a 20t bottle jack in the bottom. Obviously the 20t jack is massive so you need big timber to put the dam thing in.

Humbolts and Swansons although save some timber is more about throwing the stem away from the stump. The higher stump also prevents the stem kicking back at you.

What aspect of winching are you interested in? Felling with winches then assissted felling is the ticket you want Take down of hung up trees with winches then CS32 is what you want. If its vehicle recovery then its a vehicle winching ticket you want. If you want to skid timber or winch it to a tractor it's an FMO 4 you want. If its dealing with windblow is a 34/35 or 50 you want,

https://www.mwmac.co.uk/RoR_Provisional_Licence.html

Not that many assessors who do it. Where are you?

So they assisted the fell? Then surely from a certification point of view then surely a lack of medium/large fell and assisted fell tickets.

Make sure you get extra rings for the wooden sections. I use two ring on my wedges and some tape around the two rings. Keeps the wood lasting a lot longer than it does with one ring.

I've used steel in the past, don't care for them. you have to be good at grinding the tops of your send bits of metal flying when you smash them in. A good compramise is a hard head wedge which has forgiving plastic wedge part should you hit it with a saw but a steel top for banging with a hammer. I've recently picked up some 5.5 inch Notch wedges which are really good. I carry around in my trouser pocket and 2 high lifts and triple taper K&H and a 8" K&H.

A timber trailer will always be a compromise on something. You really want a steering draw bar not only good for getting around tight drives and in to narrow bits of woods. You can also use it in place of the legs but you have to be good and the bits not too big. 100hp tractor will do an 11t trailer but you will feel it on the road. Plus side is that it will go anywhere and be productive. 8t i;ve found often get overloaded or have extension pins on just to get more out, but they work really well in small woods. What ever you get the longest crane you can afford. 7m tends to be the cross over point between really high lift capacity and reach. 65lpm on the spools would be ok but you will miss the pump. Just make sure you have a free flow return so you can dump the oil back to the tank rather than shoving it back through a spool. As for 3pl mount cranes never used one but i have hurd they rock around a bit and are tough on the check chains. Advantage is you can put it on the winch and chipper for added productivity. But then why not just JAKE mount your Scandinavian crane. Botex 570TL on a eurotrailer or a Farma 10t G2 if that takes your fancy more.

12" easily. I've done 12" chipping on 90hp so a 110hp of a 8050 will do it brilliantly. Although you may only have 100hp left on a 8050.

Is that a Pfanzelt PM trac? Didn't think there were too many over here.

I had one. 8" PTO driven with a turn table had it's own hydraulic system too so you could speed up and slow down the rollers nicely. Mainly used for chipping sawmill waste. Pulls wood really well but it wasn't brilliant on really small stuff but what bigger chippers are. I did crane loads of spruce brash through it and it would do it. Very solid bit of kit i liked was best part of a tonne on the linkage.

The Silviculture and management of Coppice Woodlands Growing Broadleaves for Timber: Forestry Commission Handbook 9 Forest Mensuration: A handbook for practitioners Managing Native Broadleaf Woodlands. Forestry For The Agent and Surveyor The Foresters Companion That would make a start of a very good bookshelf. The last one can be hard to find at a sensible price but i picked up mine for about a 5 quid in an Oxfam bookshop and my agent and surveyor one for 20 in the same shop.

I know it well. It's one of the largest hornbeam coppices in Europe. One of my favorite woodlands actually and despite being on my doorstep on i've never had the chance to work in. Hertfordshire Council's Countryside Management Service did all the planning and they use a mix of volunteers and contractors to do the work. Part of the woodland backs onto the far extent of the Hatfield House estate that had a lot of work done at that end a few years ago.

John Deere 6800. Not overly electric but a nice tractor. 40kph 6 pot very smooth and quite. Only thing i can fault is the shuttle.

This. If you want a 4 cylinder the Valmet 6400 is a good tractor too. It has a better turning circle and is just more compact.

Not on a 31. 31 is 3 hazards and risks of the work and 3 hazards and risks of the site. 32 has the 5 steps.

Having used both, flail every time. The chain swipe bashes stuff about but doesn't ever get to the nice chewed up mulch that a flail gives you. if you cut low enough with a flail you get a nice finish not so much with the swipe you will have lots of little broken bramble stems sticking up. Only thing going for the swipe is that they are fairly cheap.

Germany somewhere i would of guessed.

I've never seen that before. What a lovely spot to work and how civilised to have a mess hut on the side of the hill. Lots of cool felling gagets that you only seem to get lots of use over in Europe. Such as the big assisted winch tongs and the come along hook which also has a double and far better version. Those big felling jacks are really nice but you have to be a very brave man to jack those off the stump and free fall them to the landing. I hate downhill logging at the best of times but that is not my cup of tea. I suppose that is what you get in real remote selective cuts. Still a very nice video.

It doesn't go well......

Normal thing is to bend the pipe and run it down the bonnet but the Valmets have the silencer under the bonnet. Best place to put it is up the side of the cab and link it with some flexible pipe like you say. If you can't mount it there like you said under the brash bar would be an idea place.

Who won?

Bore the bar in and shove the bar in that and roll it that way. Have you tried sharpening the hook?